I hate 4x4 SC trucks, but this one has me interested. I don't like the integrated rear toe blocks, and the fact that my current wheels don't have the right offset.

I can't wait to see one in action.

Mike;
The inner body mounts are for the "to be released" inner body cover.
Sounds like it's similar to the JConcepts ones you can get for the 2wheel drive SC10.
Bob

Id love to know what the inner lower body mounts are for too !!

OMG i am an idiot !!! i just wanted to tell you guys that have never painted a body before to remove the overspray film before applying the decals .. thats all im saying ..lol yea yea i know

Not sure to be honest. When I look up the part # on Amain its 91043 and it's the whole kit, just need more of the little axle shims. I have about a 3/32 gap that allows the cv joint to push in enough to where the pin could come out. Not sure what the part # would be just for the shims or what size they are.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...c91043&x=0&y=0

I appreciate the quality of the truck but AE really cut some corners to keep the cost down. They excluded extra's like shims,fluids and tools you're use to seeing in all their other kits.

So your pin can fall out even with the wheel on and the axle nut tightened down? Or just when the wheel is off?

Has anyone else have issues getting the screws for the motor plate through the rear transmission? I know it has been said to put washers on all 3 screws, but one of my screws, I needed to use a pair of pliers to get it to seat all the way down before screwing it into the motor plate... It was almost like the hole that the cap head screw goes into was a tiny bit too small...






Got mine Tuesday, 4pm, from Eliminator-RC. Winnipeg Rules!

Well thats go to know as well cause i was wondering about that too. But mine is touching and i noticed it during assembly. car sitting still. should i not worry about it?

Same thing here. I just took an x-acto knife and trimmed the inside of the hole. Maybe the core in the mold was having a flashing issue...it happens.

Yup, piano wire/music wire. I used .062 and .078 to give me the 1.5 or 2mm option.

I believe so, the hex adapter is on and there's still a good bit of movement. I'll need to throw a wheel on and see what happens but that just brings up another issue of having to mess with the pin every time I remove the wheels to make sure it's seated properly.

I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual.

It's there to fit a future release of an overtray/ undertray that keeps the dirt from going in the chassis and electronics.

You may not have the tensioner tight enough. (???)

What the manual doesn't explain is that if you use the optional 19t pulley the described tensioner settings will allow the belt to be loose.

You haven't "snapped" the hex all the way onto the pin. The play behind the hex to bearing should be .1-.2mm not very much at all.

If you have installed and tightened the wheels on and then remove you should see that this process will click them into place. Other wise you have to hold the driveshaft into the hub and push the hex on to snap it over the pin.

What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.

Sway bars like all SC 4x4's come with except this AE truck...