Maybe a non issue if I invest in a $100 servo.. but it doesn't necessarily have to be a broken servo, could be a broken servo arm, screw falling out, broken steering arm, etc. I have those problems on my 2wd more often than I have to dig into the diff. Servo saver on this thing didn't seem forgiving either.

Also noticed manual did not say to lube servo saver like 2wd did. Lots of broken steering parts on the 2wd can be cured by simply cleaning the servo saver out and lubing it.. but at least that one is relatively easy to repair. The design is such that it fills up with dirt/dust that can't escape and it grinds into the plastic until it's seized up. It'd do much better if it was upside down or had some type of cover over the spring to prevent debris from falling in.

I never read a manual before building this thing, lol.

Mine are marked but nearly impossible to see. I plan to just mark them up with a sharpie to be clear. Same deal with shock pistons although I don't know if the shock oil would clean marking off.

I have some pinions that don't have tooth count engraved on them either.. how lame is that?

loose screws and such shouldnt be an issue on this servo setup.. you can reach all of them with a ball-end allen... with the exception of the screww that attaches the servo horn.. just be sure and add a bit of thread lock at initial installation there and all should be good.. even the lil plastic links 'may' be accessable externally with a lil forethought...

Krio,

What gearing do you run with your 5.5? I ran the suggested 13t on mine today and found it lacking the speed I am used to with my Losi.

Shocks were leaking so I decided to rebuild the shocks and put some green slime in the X-rings, etc.
I also want to change the rear piston to 1.3 for Hard packed Dirt track.

The leaks were coming from the Cartridge body.
I am having a hard time taking this thing out using the 2 tools in the kit.


Anyone tried to rebuild the shocks and run across this issue?

thanks

Can anyone answer why these kits are so hard to come by? In Canada it seems the earliest they will be available is the end of June and some other sites are saying July...
Is this a first test production run for Associated using a new manufacturing facility? Are they building these in China(often a cause of manufacturing issues)?

Anyone have any suggestions for a Canadian wanting to get one sooner?
LIP

Yeah an analog servo rated at only 138oz. of torque(which is not nearly as strong as its digital counterpart)is IMO not sufficient for a 4x4 sc truck. Minimum I would recommend is a Digital servo capable of putting out 150-175oz. of torque at stall point.

I myself run Hitec 7945's for both my SC10's,my SCTE and soon to have SC10 4x4. Those put down about 300oz. of torque at stall which is probably a bit of overkill, but that just means light duty and long life for the servo itself.

You would be correct.

Got my kit in on Tuesday and had it running today for the first time. The setup is a sidewinder SCT, 18 pinion (48p spur), stock setup, and a low end 645 Hitec servo which seems to get this truck around nicely .... if anything this truck has an insanely short/quick turning radius with the clicker working. I ran for about 45min and the Esc peaked at 120F and the motor was 110F with 2s 5000 40c lipos.

Coming from a Blitz, which has just about every steering mod, the SC10 4x4 turned like nothing I've driven and the weight felt great in the air. I ran the stock tires which worked well I thought but I'll be switching to the Caliber/Bowtie combo soon to compare.

I'm loving this so far!

Well I replaced my servo since I blew the plastic gears in my 1st one. It was not all that bad and if I had to do it again I would say I could do it in around 30 minutes. You have to remove the clicker cover and clicker, remove the 4 screws holding the front of the chassis to the center. Remove the screw holding the top front of the chassis to the diff. Remove the 2 other screws holding the back side of the clicker plate from the diff. Remove the 2 balls that attach the steering links to the servo saver. And remove the single screw from the bottom of the chassis. If you routed the servo wire thru the chassis, then you have to remove the remaining screws holding the front of the chassis to the center.

I installed a Savox 1258tg and the wire was plenty long enough. 1st race tomorrow night. Cant wait.

mine has ben siting there from tus i have to wait for the servo it will be in this sat

Makes sense... but I think the instructions say to loosen screw even when using bladder.

So either that step is unnecessary, or maybe with bladder that screw becomes an air bleeder to prevent trapping too much air above the bladder and ballooning it more while tightening the cap down. Does that make sense?

Need a servo recommendation

Running Castle Sidewinder SCT, 2C Lipo

I picked up a Hitec HS-625MG. Is this a decent choice? I don't want to spend a ton on a servo but don't want to be upgrading in a month either. Can all servos be plugged direct to receiver or do they need to be high voltage?

Sorry for dumb questions but last car I built was in 1995, lol.

Thanks.

It's on the low end performancewise but I think it could work. Same for the sidewinder esc. Keep an eye on heat on that esc and maybe get a fan.

If you are really on a budget you can gamble on the hobbypartz servos, d226f or d227f. One of them has worked great for me so far, but the 2nd one I bought is a glitchy pos.

Refer to chart on this page:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidise.html

same with me... the slower higher torque hobbypartz is excellent while the faster one is junk... someone suggested to remove the top casing o ring and that makes it much better but probably messes up the weatherproofing.