In terms of steering think about 4wd buggies and the fact that you run a narrower front tire. You can't run a narrower front tire in the SC10 4x4 but you can run different tread types or compounds front/rear to change overall steering and steering response.

How can I straight the stering servo without dissamble the car ??????

lol, I went through the manual 3 times and almost posted here last night before I figured out that it looked the same as the tray wall. It looks like a fairly substantial piece that would be 'missed' if it was meant to go somewhere

Trims and sub trims on ur radio?

So how does the bleeding on these bladder shocks work?


I read the manual but I'm new to this.

It seems like the bleed port would have to be below the bladder somehow or it wouldn't work.

On an emulsion type shock I'd expect to bleed it simply by extending shaft, filling it all the way and removing air, cranking the cap on fully with bleed port open... then compressing shaft in to where I want it minus whatever preload (rebound?) I want, then putting bleeder screw back in.



But this concept doesn't seem to work once you throw a bladder into the equation. Any input on this? I'm an engineer so I need diagrams and equations, lol.

http://tinyurl.com/6djeulv

How to straight stering servo ? I need to straight the servo arm and I can't do it from my radio.
What's the easy way without dissarm the car ?

If you cant do it from your radio then you must dissasemble and make it right. They made it very clear in the instructions how important it was to get it straight right from the get go. Good way to learn the truck though, taking it apart.

has anyone tried to fit the slash 4x4 wheels on this truck, I know the hex is the same but the slash 4x4 uses a different offset.
when using the slash 4x4 wheels, do you need to trim the body rightaway?

THE LOSI SCTE WHEELS WILL FIT

I cant get my servo straight either . i tried several times but it always wants to be off one way or the other . in the video he saus to straighten it with the elecroncis or what ever and thats fine and dandy but as soon as i turn it off and back on the arm goes to one side slightly ... i guess im missing something but i cant figure out what . its a hitech servo if it matters and anyone has a suggestion .. oh and the wires reached no problem


I also had two quality control issues . the front shocks were leaking in the plastic bags and on the car .I was hoping it was residual from AE building them so I wiped em clean and installed them but they still leak and the shock mount studs in that mount to the shock towers wasnt threaded on two of them . I also get a slight cogging or something sometimes that i for the life of me cant figure out . i followed the instrructions when it came to building the trannys and belt drive to the T so im hoping its actually an ESC issue .


BUT OTHERWISE I LOVE THIS TRUCK ITS BADD A**

i mount slash 4X4 wheels to it last night for test driving reasons and they fit fine .. the wheel nut barely catches the nylock but it works .. i didnt have the body on it tho so i cant vouch for body fitment with those wheels .

check out this video FFW to 2:42 and you will see the process
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixBJu93Qyw

in this video Adam Drake shows another way to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNJy7...eature=related

For those who saw any of my prior post, I was running a VXL with a Tekin SC4x 5.5 and it was sputtering like it had a rev limiter. The only way to attain full speed would be to slowly ease into the throttle on a super long straight. I checked everything and when I changed the ESC the problem finally went away. I would advise that no one use the Slash VXL ESC even though it says that it is compatible. I am now using my 1/8 scale mamba monster and this truck is hauling!!