I do not fully understand it as well, but with the 19t pulleys, the front wheels will rotate faster.

i tried limiters on my truck, not sure on your track, although they did appear to work well for me, unfortunately i needed the full travel for my track as i kept bottoming out and slapping the chassis, which would upset the truck on landings. so i took them out. ended up with 35wt ft 25wt rear, still playing with the truck, but thats where i am at, and the truck is 110% better feeling to me (i also have 2.1mm sways f+r).

i think alot of it is driver preference and track condition, as some have commented that it pushes and they want more steering, which to me, is very odd, as i am trying to dial OUT my steering! it has a TON of steering. the thing can turn on a dime, and on high speed sweepers/turns, it was oversteering for me. it wasnt a controlled drift/oversteer either. and i already had 15k in my front diff. looking at chris's setup setup sheet changes from his first sheet vs his current, it appears he is having similar issues as i was.

where are you topping out down the longest straight?

Is this info in the manual? if not, would be good to add to the first page.


So, who here is running on a loose loamy track with big jumps? Looking for diff fluid choice info.


From what people are saying, I really wish AE did not do the partial build of the diffs etc. Leave it to the hobbyiest to build there stuff right. Anyone notice any issues on prebuilt stuff? (damaged orings, etc)

Is your RX8 sitting with the posts towards the back? I put the tray and receiver box in and it will only sit 'sideways' with the posts towards the inside or outside. Does not running the tray give you enough room to run posts to the back?

Got a chance to put mine on the track this morning. I am in love even though my set up was not perfect and needs some tweeking. I do agree that swaybars are needed but I am going to play with shock position to try to get a little less body roll untill they come out. Running a Novak 4.5 550 with the 12 tooth pinion temps after about 4 minutes were only 90° This is on a large 1/8th scale track. My session was cut short when I broke my servo when I caught a pipe. I made the mistake of using a 9402 servo with plastic gears (dumb). I had it laying around and it is super fast, just not strong. I will post how bad it is to change.

What esc are you running and what are the settings as far as timing goes?

Went out last night and put 6 packs through mine. I started out with how I initially built it. I glued up some AKA Enduros to the stock wheels.

I'm running a Fantom 7.5 540 right out of the package geared 93/18 with a Tekin RS Pro and anywhere from a 5000 35c to a 5300 60c pack (which was a tight fit). First run just for 5-6 minutes motor came off at 135, ESC @ 110 and battery ambient (72*F)

I moved the battery back all of the way and ran my next pack there. Though not bad it made the truck less responsive and jumped inconsistently. I ran this pack for about 10 minutes. Motor temp was 153, ESC 118 battery still at ambient.

Next run I moved the rear shock bottoms in on arm (I built them in the outer hole as this is where I usually run my other cars/trucks) the truck started to "dump over" on corner exit (This thing really needs sway bars!) So I pulled it back in and changed back to the outer hole and stood them up to the outer hole on the tower. This run yielded a better feel but it was now bouncing off of the tires in the choppy sections.

Another pit stop, changed battery, put the shocks back to middle hole on the tower and changed rear pistons to 1.3s. When back out and by this time people started to take notice when an expert E-Buggy driver couldn't pull away from me. (He could in the sections that I wasn't going to chance breakage on I was on the stand for about 15 minutes with a "mental patient grin" on my face. I finally pulled off and temped everything. Motor was 178, ESC was 130 and the battery @ 92. Absolutely fine for a hard 15 minute run.

The truck was a blast to drive. It's not yet perfect but time will allow for things to be dialed in.

every post up your belt tension settings please.

Is anyone out there making chassis protectors for the bottom of this thing yet and whats the word on when the overtray will be out.

Stock settings with 20/20 pullys.

I haven't looked for it in the manual, but I think they did it to simulate a lighter diff fluid if you had a center diff. With a lighter fluid you would send more power to the front tires at take off, or coming out of a turn.

We (Track Star) have spoke to Imagine-it Graphics about a chassis protector. possibly in the next couple of weeks.

They are the guys that just released the "UnderWear" inner body skins.

Running factory settings which is Middle hole in the back and second to top hole in the front

The track we test at (Hemet Comp. Raceway) is exactly what you described.

I'm running 30,000 front and 4,000 rear PTRC fluids in mine.

Overdrive pulley setup info is on page 41 of manual.