i also run at OCRC and WCRC. i start with the team lipo setup and adjust from there, but overall that is a great setup for the car.

one time i had rebuilt/cleaned my whole car and forgot to put back the rear swaybar and for half a pack couldnt figure out why it was so loose and unstable, esp coming out of corners. between that and the weight ballast, that has fixed all my rear traction/"loose" issues.

Can someone post a pic of the weight ballast? I think I need it.

http://www.teamassociated.com/factor.../details/9776/

what pinion should I use with my new B44.1

I have the Tekin RS Pro ESC and a Tekin Redline 7.5 motor. I will be running it on a relatively small track and racing in a modified class but I am new to the hobby and this will be my first attempt at racing.

I would suggest a 10.2:1 to 10.0:1 Final drive ratio. The B44.1 has a 2.5:1 internal ratio, just multiply that by (spur count/pinion count), that gives you final drive. If your running the stock 81t spur, you need a 19t to 20t pinion. We can get you close here, but the best thing to do is ask the local fast guys what they run for final drive ratio for that motor. You might find that many are using a higher turn motor. Short tracks don't give a low turn motor the room to use there legs, and the extra torque of a higher turn rating is beneficial in tight quarters.

Remember to monitor your motor and ESC temps!

I made my “Wheeler” debut with my new B44.1 at the local indoor track last night. Right out of the box with the Team “Lipo” setup and the ballast weight the car was pretty good and had tons of traction. My initial impression was there was too much steering (just at initially turn-in), but I’m not sure if it’s just because I’m use to racing 2wd buggies with inherit understeer. At mid-turn through turn-exit under/over steer was very easy to control with the throttle. I’m running blue Barcodes front and rear with Proline closed cell foam. Overall the car was very easy to drive and way more fun my 2wd buggy.

can anyone tell me what the differences is between the B44 and the 44.1 versions??? looking to get one, but wanted to know the difference and see if it would justify the cost savings or not..

hope you guys can help.

Different Chassis, no battery cut outs, it is built for lipo. The body is different as well. The cam motor mount is awesome and much better than the original type. It comes with the V2 shocks that are easier to build. Not sure if it comes with the aluminum rear hubs, but they are nice. These are the most significant changes.

I still run the B44 and it is fine. There isn't a lot of performance upgrades in the B44.1, but it is a ton easier to build, adjust, and maintain.

Also comes with the rear alum hubs that give you more adjustments, thicker front shock tower which is a huge plus as you will break the thin 44 one.

Definitely, I run the team extreme shock towers. The new 44.1 version is solid though.

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...conversion.pdf

What are the differences between the B44 and B44.1? Can a B44 be cinverted to B44.1 specs?

Did you look at the post above yours?

Look a few posts above, we just covered this. It can be converted, but it is almost cheaper to buy the new kit unless you take the chassis out of the equation. If I were going to update my B44, I would get the cam motor mount and the V2 shocks for sure. The rear aluminum hubs are nice and offer more adjustment. Not sure that the new chassis has any performance benefit. I still like my B44 how it is though, so for now, I'm leaving it alone.

Wow, I just looked at that list to convert your b44 to a .1 and its cheaper to just buy the whole b44.1 kit then to convert it......