Yup and you don't get much in the way of performance upgrades, it is mostly easier to build and maintain and purpose built for lipo batteries. I'm not in any hurry to switch. I love my B44.

Hey guys just ordered my b44.1 with a neu mmp 4 pole 5700. Just to hav some fun with not racing for now. I have read all 22 pages and have a few qz

1. Cvas popping out is common....what is the go to solution- shunning the hubs andor using 2 limitters. Shud these be done as I build it or as I experience it.

2. Someone mentioned the protek60c lipo are not as juicy as they shud be. Wud eBay options or maxamps be better. Just lookng for the cheapest lipo that full fulfils my motor.

Cheers!

I use a Pro Match battery and have loved it. Price is good and performance is terrific. It is on it's second year of racing and doing great. The venom pack is fairly popular and priced well.

anybody run the castle sidewinder 3800kv system? thinking about it and wondering if it would be a good choice. i run castle on everything else...

thanks.

Just finished the kit build and I noticed that the front wheels tend to lock up when moving back and forth. I found the only way to fight that was to turn my EPA down to 60 on the left and 40 on the right. With the epa set like that, I have terrible turning radius. Has anyone run into an issue with this?

I prefer sensored systems just for that smoothness and throttle control. I have never raced with a Castle, but my buddies bash with them and they keep telling me that my novak stuff is way easier to handle. I agree with them... I have a B44, GTB 2, Fantom 10.5t setup. Look for sales on motors and speedos if its the money that is driving you to Castle. Also Speed Passion is a good option as well.

GTB "2": $99 Novak also offers a trade in program that gives you a discount if you mail in a old product of theirs. I think its $85???

Fantom 10.5t : $39

Did you mount your servo horn with the correct offset? The instructions indicate it should NOT be straight up like usual. I have a B44 and my EPA's are pretty low as well, but closer to even in value(58% and 60% I think). Have you run it on a track? Mine looks like the steering radius is bad on the bench, but rotates super-good on the track.

are those different from stock?

Yes 4-wheel drive is fun, and I personally cannot wait for Losi to come out with a TLR44 to get the class running again, I race at OC/RC and never bring my ZX-5 cause nobody ever runs 4wheel unless it's 8th scale or 4x4 short course. The B44.1 is a good car, but a bit on the fragile side. But you gotta love how you can throw it 4wheel drive buggies into a turn and full speed and powerslide your way past the 2 wheel drive buggies

WCRC has had a number of 4w buggies running lately. Enough at times to have thier own class. 'Been thinking about getting one myself.

Read through part of the thread,

Saw the conversion chart for the B44 to B44.1, good info. My question is I just got a good deal on a BJ4 and was wondering what B44 or B44.1 parts would work on there. Not looking to do a full converion, but wanting to know what parts will work so they can be upgraded on a as needed basis. I could get a B44.1, but the deal on the BJ4 was too goo to pass on. Thanks for any help.

My two buddies I drive with all the time have been going with there 4x4 buggies lately and have had a blast... so much fun in fact I just bought one myself!!

I'm thinking about selling a B44, just thought I would give this thread a chance before it goes on the main FS thread.

Let me know.

My dream is to have an aluminum chassis for my B44.1. Do they exist? Would they rule? Just thought I'd get this thread movin...

Those with Carbon chassis wish they had aluminum, those with aluminum (TLR 22, Durango) wish they had carbon... seems people always want what is not available. They do look sexy, but so does carbon.

Engineering wise, I believe carbon is the better option for 1/10th scale, especially 4wd. Aluminum is far heavier and flexier which, IMO, is something the B44 or B44.1 doesn't need. The B44 family is already a little portly, and carbon can be laminated to give any desired characteristic imaginable. On the TLR 22 it makes sense to use aluminum because you already have to add weight(so I have heard...) and it might as well be at the lowest possible point, but when everyone does everything they can to get chassis roll and traction on slick surfaces a little weight up high also makes sense. That is why I believe the ballast works so well in the B44.

To me the aluminum chassis is for those companies that are already committed to a 1/8th scale format. Less tooling is required if you machine all your chassis in one material.

agree or disagree?