Been having a problem with the rear CVA's popping out on awkward landing without the ball cup popping off

Was wondering if using the slightly longer B4.1 CVA's would take care of this?

Have you tried moving the axle shims to the inside of the hub to push the cva a little farther in the outdrive?

Nope I will give it a shot

mine kept doing that one time and it turned out to be a cracked rear arm at the inner hinge pin.

Are there any B44.1 set up sheet available from the Reedy race at WCRC from any of the team guys?

Check the website, no go. Just wondering.

It was a little side project I did at work. It's a display pedestal I made for my shelf queen gold tub RC10. It was created on a rapid prototyping machine (aka 3d printer).

I had a feeling that's how you made it. Bad ass!

I have this problem all the time. its super frustrating. I moved the shim from the outsite of the hub to the inside of the hub... another thing to check (if your running the plastic rear hubs stock on b44) is to make sure the Left is on the left side and the Right is on the right side. somehow I mixed that up and ran the car for an entire heat like that without noticing. then the next heat the drive shaft popped out almost immediately.

Can anyone confirm if the original B44 body will fit on the new B44.1 kit?

It will, but there will be a gap between the body and chassis around the front part.

Understood, thanks for the quick reply!

Just got my B44.1 finally done and out on the track (OCRC indoor clay). They had just re-done half of the track so it was loose in parts (takes a few days to groove up) and I am running Jconcepts gold barcodes front and rear. ESC is a SXX TC Spec V2 and motor is an 8.5 turn LRP. Geared pretty low because I'm new to running mod (and never run 4WD before).

The first thing I noticed is even though I didn't have any drag brake set (or maybe 1 out of 10) but off jumps, the car really wanted to endo.. I know there is alot more weight in the front on a 4WD car than a 2WD Buggy (which is what I am used to driving). Anyone know how to aleviate that problem. What is the best way to hit jumps in a B44 and downside a jump without sticking the flat bumper into the ground.

Also, on the loose sections of the track (which I know will groove up) the car seemed really squirlly (to be expected a little) but even on the half of the track that they had left in tact and had a good line on it (like the sweeper after the straight away), the rear end of the B44 would spin out around turns.

Anyone have any advise on what I should look at first. Rear diff? front diff? Too loose, too tight? I really have no idea of how loose or tight diffs in the front and/or rear affect the car.

I tried making the rear springs looser to give it some more rear traction. I think that helped a BIT but they had timed practice tonight so I only got about 8 minutes in to practice with it by that point.

and to clarify, i have the stock shock setup (silver fronts with 30 weight, green rears with 25). I have a thunderower 5400 lipo and have the new center lead weight insert. I also have the silver rear sway bar installed.

[QUOTE=bryan562;8967712] Anyone know how to aleviate that problem. What is the best way to hit jumps in a B44 and downside a jump without sticking the flat bumper into the ground.


Don't run drag brake on the 4wd or if you do you will have to practice a lot to get used to staying on throttle unless you want to do front flips! You need to stay on throttle a little anyway in the 4wd or you will get enough rotational effect to bring the nose quite low depending on the size of the jump. It just takes some practice. You can adjust the dampening of the front and rear shocks to help jump the way you like, but the box set up should be close. You do want to land nose down a bit and land your jumps on the down slopes. This is the wonderful thing about 4wd. You have sooooo much control of pitch in the air. Awesome fun!

check that the front diff is a little tighter than the rear. I usually back the front diff out an 8th of a turn and the rear a 1/4 turn from bottomed out.

Make sure you don't have any bad bearings in the hubs. Check each one and if it feels a little gritty, get rid of it and replace it. It can be surprising the difference it makes.

Also, check the front camber links. If they are set to the outside holes in the hub try shortening them. Longer links will make that end of the car roll deeper through all parts of the turn and I found that it makes the rear end loop out at about half-way through the turn.

Check camber. Start at 1 degree all around and add a little to the rear and go to 0 in the front if you need more rear traction. Opposite if you need more front (later on).

Try more or less pin on the tires. Wetter clay means less pin usually works better, drier usually means more pin works better. you might just need to break in the tires a little more. mark them right and left and don't switch them either. as they wear and break in, the wear angle on the pin will cause loose feeling if switched around.