Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#5446
I just bought one this week and the advice most gave me was to get a Tekin 1900kv combo and 4S lipos with at least 30C rating. I ordered 2 Turnigy 4S 35C 500mah packs, 18-20T pinions, and also a 3 inch servo extention needed to get the speedo plugged into the receiver. I dont have it together yet but I think thats everything Im going to need.
For spares I'd get some steering rod ends, front arms, and rear hubs. Those are the only items Ive broken running the nitro RC8 over 3 years.
The body comes with the kit and it also comes with M3 Holeshots which are good tires for hardpacked dirt with little to no dust. Soft AKA City Blocks are my go to tire that I always have with me. They work on just about any kind of surface.
The kit setup is very similar to what I used on my nitro buggy so I expect its pretty good. The only hopup I have on my RC8TCE is aluminum rear hubs but I dont think the E-buggy is going to need them so there are no hopups needed. Maybe get the 8x1.3 pistons thats about the only thing I can think of and theyre just a tuning option. I ran the 10x1.1 tapered pistons on my RC8B but didnt really notice any advantage over the stock pistons.
For spares I'd get some steering rod ends, front arms, and rear hubs. Those are the only items Ive broken running the nitro RC8 over 3 years.
The body comes with the kit and it also comes with M3 Holeshots which are good tires for hardpacked dirt with little to no dust. Soft AKA City Blocks are my go to tire that I always have with me. They work on just about any kind of surface.
The kit setup is very similar to what I used on my nitro buggy so I expect its pretty good. The only hopup I have on my RC8TCE is aluminum rear hubs but I dont think the E-buggy is going to need them so there are no hopups needed. Maybe get the 8x1.3 pistons thats about the only thing I can think of and theyre just a tuning option. I ran the 10x1.1 tapered pistons on my RC8B but didnt really notice any advantage over the stock pistons.
#5447
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 783
From: Norheimsund, Norway
Hey...Just got my Rc8be!
Upgrades:
Grid RC Motor Mount
1900kv Tekin RX8 system
10x1.1 tapered pistons
Hotbodies 20t pinion
Grid motor mount
Aluminum 3mm nuts
Aluminum shock standoffs
Gens Ace 4s 5000mah 40c (Ordered them 2 days ago..just got an email to wait 4-6 weeks for re shipment
)...
Fly sky 2.4ghz gt3b rx (Waiting to come back in stock)..
One thing wront atm..
Center diff is leaking like crazy..Instead of sanding it atm...Will getting an aluminum spur fix this issue? I could get one at the moment at a good price
as well as putting in the mugen gaskets with the metal spur?
Upgrades:
Grid RC Motor Mount
1900kv Tekin RX8 system
10x1.1 tapered pistons
Hotbodies 20t pinion
Grid motor mount
Aluminum 3mm nuts
Aluminum shock standoffs
Gens Ace 4s 5000mah 40c (Ordered them 2 days ago..just got an email to wait 4-6 weeks for re shipment
)...Fly sky 2.4ghz gt3b rx (Waiting to come back in stock)..
One thing wront atm..
Center diff is leaking like crazy..Instead of sanding it atm...Will getting an aluminum spur fix this issue? I could get one at the moment at a good price
as well as putting in the mugen gaskets with the metal spur?
I guess you mean steel spur -not aluminium? Anyway, you don't want it. It is the most scarying and high pitch whine i have ever heard that went straight to my marrow, and that is only from testdriving the car on the floor in my flat. As the steel spur is "stiffer" than the plastic spur it will not seal as good as the plastic spur either.
Do the sanding trick, it is easy and efficient. And get the uprated clear O-ring kit, it has the same part # as the stock, just make sure it has got the clear small output axle ones before you order. The large ones are still black.
#5449
Do the sanding trick, it is easy and efficient. And get the uprated clear O-ring kit, it has the same part # as the stock, just make sure it has got the clear small output axle ones before you order. The large ones are still black.[/QUOTE]
U got it backwards the small ones r black, large r clear.
PTP Racing
u also need to use locktight on all metal to metal screws & I use nail polish on metal to plastic. Offroad loosens screws big time.
Only prts I broke:wing & mounts (I think mounts broke because screws got loose), rear hub (I think because weather was cold)
Upgrades I would get: Front & rear skid plates, wing mount (the kit one has crummy plastic stand offs, they will brake new wing mount has metal ones)
Rear chassis brace get metal one or put large washer on screw that goes into shock tower prt. or it will break.
Last is Elite or Grid mtr mount., makes messing with mtr easy. Also keeps mtr off chassis. When I took my mtr out the bottom was all bashed up from hitting the chassis.
U got it backwards the small ones r black, large r clear.
PTP Racing
u also need to use locktight on all metal to metal screws & I use nail polish on metal to plastic. Offroad loosens screws big time.
Only prts I broke:wing & mounts (I think mounts broke because screws got loose), rear hub (I think because weather was cold)
Upgrades I would get: Front & rear skid plates, wing mount (the kit one has crummy plastic stand offs, they will brake new wing mount has metal ones)
Rear chassis brace get metal one or put large washer on screw that goes into shock tower prt. or it will break.
Last is Elite or Grid mtr mount., makes messing with mtr easy. Also keeps mtr off chassis. When I took my mtr out the bottom was all bashed up from hitting the chassis.
#5450
PTP Racing
u also need to use locktight on all metal to metal screws & I use nail polish on metal to plastic. Offroad loosens screws big time.
Only prts I broke:wing & mounts (I think mounts broke because screws got loose), rear hub (I think because weather was cold)
Upgrades I would get: Front & rear skid plates, wing mount (the kit one has crummy plastic stand offs, they will brake new wing mount has metal ones)
Rear chassis brace get metal one or put large washer on screw that goes into shock tower prt. or it will break.
Last is Elite or Grid mtr mount., makes messing with mtr easy. Also keeps mtr off chassis. When I took my mtr out the bottom was all bashed up from hitting the chassis.[/QUOTE]
just re-built my diffs and the clear o-rings are bigger, you'll notice the outdrives fit more snug.
also just got my Grid Mount today!!! wholly crap I'm excited. This thing's LEGIT


There needs to be The RC8BE RC Tech Edition.... built according to our bible
Last edited by buggy8; 04-08-2011 at 01:34 AM.
#5451
Im trying to get a second to do everything else I need to get done. And I have a huge annual inspection coming up in 3 weeks. And the Government budget isnt helping any when I cant keep my guys at work to get everything done.
#5453
PTP Racing
u also need to use locktight on all metal to metal screws & I use nail polish on metal to plastic. Offroad loosens screws big time.
u also need to use locktight on all metal to metal screws & I use nail polish on metal to plastic. Offroad loosens screws big time.
I even put loctite on all the screws going into the locknuts. Ive been running the RC8 series of cars since their release. Ive got most of the roller built now but have to wait till my battery and misc part orders come in before I can finish. Ive never tried nail polish on the plastic screws. I havent had much problem with any of them loosening up too much. I just go over them and make sure theyre all snug after cleaning or before mains.
#5454
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,775
From: Orlando / Maitland, FL
anyone need a good powerful and fast servo? Im selling my Hitech 7955tg servo from the sc8e
$75 shipped - 333oz / .15sec @ 6V
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...955-servo.html
$75 shipped - 333oz / .15sec @ 6V
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...955-servo.html
#5456
I'm realizing more and more the importance of sway bars
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track
I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track

I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
#5457
I'm realizing more and more the importance of sway bars
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track
I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track

I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
#5458
#5459
I'm realizing more and more the importance of sway bars
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track
I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
especially when I'm tumbling around a high bite track

I think I want to run the thickest possible.
anyone have an idea on the specs? where to buy?
I was running with a guy who's buggy was way dialed and I noticed his sway bars were huge. I want that action!
#5460
I just did the wing mod to my rc8be that they talk about on post #9333 in the nitro thread for the rc8b. I run the Jconcepts wing and it looks so much better. Brings the wing down lower and should help with jumping.




