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Old 03-14-2011 | 02:45 PM
  #4261  
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Default 1/8 Virgin here!

Hey gang, just getting into 1/8 scale scene after running quite a few years of 1/10 electric. From what you guys are describing it looks as though I'm gonna have a good time!
Also based on what I see, it looks as if my noob-ness has caused me to get a motor that is probably going to be way, way too much for what I'm going to be needing. I have and RC8Be with an RX8 & T8 2650kv motor. I'm guessing, based on your comments, I should have gotten the 2050kv instead...
Comments please.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 02:49 PM
  #4262  
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Originally Posted by schnellschnell
Cool, thanks. Didn't think such a small increment would change handling so much. I'm going to play with that some.

j
It really changes how the car feels and reacts.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 03:50 PM
  #4263  
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Originally Posted by Knight Rider
Hey gang, just getting into 1/8 scale scene after running quite a few years of 1/10 electric. From what you guys are describing it looks as though I'm gonna have a good time!
Also based on what I see, it looks as if my noob-ness has caused me to get a motor that is probably going to be way, way too much for what I'm going to be needing. I have and RC8Be with an RX8 & T8 2650kv motor. I'm guessing, based on your comments, I should have gotten the 2050kv instead...
Comments please.
Depends on what you are going to be doing. If you are racing at the track and then it depends on what size of track. 1900-2050 would be enough for about all tracks.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 04:25 PM
  #4264  
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Originally Posted by Ed237
RE DROOP: This is a huge adjustment and you would be amazed at how many really fast guys dont even know if they have more droop on the front or the rear of their cars.

I have never used the 'Shock Length' method because if you change the way the shock is mounted it is going to change the droop.

I take the wheels off my car and set 2 of them on a flat surface and place the buggy on top of the wheels and measure the distance between the 'ground' and the bottom of the threads of the wheel hex head.

I have found 29mm front / 29mm rear makes for a nice neutral car. More rear droop vs front (30 front / 28 rear) is great for tight tracks with a lot of slow 180s.

Less rear droop vs front (28mm front / 30mm rear) takes away some steering and can make the car push and then snap oversteer.

If you use this method you can change shock mounting locations and maintain droop setting you prefer.
Good point, as Ive seen different ways of measuring droop...I found what worked for me to be most accurate and a very noticeable difference, is measuring shock lenght between center of upper and lower mounting bolts and would usually start off at the standard setting and would take in consideration of the type of track and conditions. Usually, more rear droop would give more downtravel so more steering to the front and more front droop would give me more traction to the rears. I also consider the amount of bumps the track has big or small i would either take out or put more droop.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 04:53 PM
  #4265  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Depends on what you are going to be doing. If you are racing at the track and then it depends on what size of track. 1900-2050 would be enough for about all tracks.
Thanks for the heads up. I will only be using it at the track. I'm sure I'll have to get another motor.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 04:54 PM
  #4266  
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Originally Posted by Knight Rider
Thanks for the heads up. I will only be using it at the track. I'm sure I'll have to get another motor.
Especially since looking at your other 2 rides you are going 8.5s. This would be like having a 4.5 in your B44.1
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Old 03-14-2011 | 06:10 PM
  #4267  
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reading the forum will help out alot
I put the 1900 in my car and its awesome but I have not gotten a good battery in it yet I am still running 2 duratrax lipos twinned together which works but a straight 4s will be better.
going to try it this weekend on the track to see how it handles
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Old 03-14-2011 | 06:10 PM
  #4268  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Especially since looking at your other 2 rides you are going 8.5s. This would be like having a 4.5 in your B44.1
Just for sheer entertainment it might be worth a try!
Thanks brother!
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Old 03-14-2011 | 06:18 PM
  #4269  
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Originally Posted by monsterbrad
reading the forum will help out alot
I put the 1900 in my car and its awesome but I have not gotten a good battery in it yet I am still running 2 duratrax lipos twinned together which works but a straight 4s will be better.
going to try it this weekend on the track to see how it handles
Besides the weight, what would be the difference between say 2, 7.4v 5000Mah 40c 2s lipo in connection, as apposed to 1 14.8v 4s, 40c lipo ?
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Old 03-14-2011 | 07:31 PM
  #4270  
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The only real difference is that its easier to balance charge the 4 cell battery (assuming you only have 1 charger)

If you have 2 chargers or a single charger that can charge and balance 2 packs at once, its a non-isssue.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 07:43 PM
  #4271  
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Originally Posted by Knight Rider
Hey gang, just getting into 1/8 scale scene after running quite a few years of 1/10 electric. From what you guys are describing it looks as though I'm gonna have a good time!
Also based on what I see, it looks as if my noob-ness has caused me to get a motor that is probably going to be way, way too much for what I'm going to be needing. I have and RC8Be with an RX8 & T8 2650kv motor. I'm guessing, based on your comments, I should have gotten the 2050kv instead...
Comments please.
If I had listened to everyone on here (no offence) I would have ended up with a 2050 Kv as well. I decided to be different and went with the 2250Kv Truggy motor and Rx8 both Tekin. I love this set up. When you get the hotwire link you can set this thing up as slow or fast as you want. For a really big track I'm set, for a medium track still set, for small track, oh wait still set. I would go big and you can always gear down, run smaller batteries or program it slower(very easy to do and I'm am kind of a noob)!! Here check out some of my videos I uploaded and see.

http://www.youtube.com/user/slashmeup1

comment if you like please people!!
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Old 03-14-2011 | 07:48 PM
  #4272  
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Originally Posted by per4m28
Good point, as Ive seen different ways of measuring droop...I found what worked for me to be most accurate and a very noticeable difference, is measuring shock lenght between center of upper and lower mounting bolts and would usually start off at the standard setting and would take in consideration of the type of track and conditions. Usually, more rear droop would give more downtravel so more steering to the front and more front droop would give me more traction to the rears. I also consider the amount of bumps the track has big or small i would either take out or put more droop.

thanks for the great info
if you could post a picture that'd be awesome! I'll be dialing mine in soon and would love to do it al at once.

thanks!
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Old 03-14-2011 | 08:31 PM
  #4273  
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Originally Posted by slash_me_up
If I had listened to everyone on here (no offence) I would have ended up with a 2050 Kv as well. I decided to be different and went with the 2250Kv Truggy motor and Rx8 both Tekin. I love this set up. When you get the hotwire link you can set this thing up as slow or fast as you want. For a really big track I'm set, for a medium track still set, for small track, oh wait still set. I would go big and you can always gear down, run smaller batteries or program it slower(very easy to do and I'm am kind of a noob)!! Here check out some of my videos I uploaded and see.

http://www.youtube.com/user/slashmeup1

comment if you like please people!!
That looks fast for sure but I'd like to see if you can handle all that on the track.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 08:48 PM
  #4274  
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Originally Posted by DRUNKENMASTER
That looks fast for sure but I'd like to see if you can handle all that on the track.
Apparently if you detune it with the Hotwire, its the same thing.
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Old 03-14-2011 | 08:51 PM
  #4275  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Apparently if you detune it with the Hotwire, its the same thing.
Oh sure it is..
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