Hey, Slash says its the exact same thing.

sigh... if that was the case dont you think there would be a 9000kv 8th scale motor and a sweet computer program...

I will admit that i think the 1900 is a bit low for my tracks, the 2050 seems great and i can clear the triple and still slow the car down for the turns. A 2200 in a truggy style car works well also for my track, but i think on something as light as the rc8 it would be way too much top end and nother enough umf to get over the doubles and triples... to each their own

So here is the grocery list for my RC8Be. The main components were from recommendations from people here. My only contribution is the wheels haha. So yea sorry for bothering all of you with my newbie questions. For those of you who were kind enough to help me I present to you my finished product!


RC8Be Factory Team Kit
Castle Creations Mamba Monster 2200kv
Mamba Monster ESC
HiTEC HS-7955TG Titanium Gear Servo
Spektrum SR3300t DSM 3-Channel Receiver
Sweep 6ix-Pak Wheels
Ofna Street Tires Treaded
EliteRC Motor Mount
Spektrum DX2S 2-ch DSM Radio with Telemetry

Custom color changing paint from Spaz Stix. Airbrushed myself.

Current specs:
44t spur
15t pinion
2 x 2s lipos 4200 mAH 35c.

Future mods: 25t pinion and a 6s lipo 5000mAH 50c

Open to suggestions though!

Nice Ride, Hows the 44T spur treating you? The factory one is 46T are you running that one also, or just the 44? If you run the 46, the 15 tooth is about 5 teeth too small. 20 tooth would be a good setup here. And thats a hell of a lot of battery wiring

Thanks Gregg. The 46t did not last 2 mins. I didn't tighten the motor so it grinded down on its debut. The next day I got the 44t since I was eventually going to get it. I can't tell the difference between the two. As of now with a 44/15 gearing, it is slower than I like. I am planning on getting a 20t or more depending on how my motor reacts.

As for the wiring, yes it is an annoying mess. The motor wires are too long and 2 2s lipos is more wires than I like to see. Any suggestions on cleaning it up? I am also annoyed that 2 2s lipos causes the body to sit unevenly.

Not sure what pinion would be good for the 44T spur. I'd have to crunch the numbers. And the batteries look like they sit high. Have toy tried laying them the other way? Only other alternative is to sell those. They cost a lot and you should be able to get something comparable in 4S1P for around the same price.

This is what you're looking at for gear ratios.

Spur/Pinion Reduction Ratio (?): 2.2:1
Total Reduction Ratio (?): 9.46:1
Total Motor Speed (?): 32560 RPM
Theoretical Maximum Vehicle Speed (?): 41.98 mph (67.44 km/h)
Calculated Loaded KV Value (?): 2200
Calculated KT Constant (?): 0.61 oz-in/A

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

So, depending on what the reading is above on the graph, where do your want you final value to be at ? On the site comeseethis.com is shows a total different value for the RC8BE gear ratio as being in the 12.61 slightly over geared at 3% area ? and that little over geared at 44-15

I'd like to know how this equates in regards to torque and top end speed.

very nice!
I'm running the same car, same electronics, but with the integy 4s 40c 5000mah. Still waiting for Gens Ace

one question though on the spur gear: metal or plastic?

From what I've seen the 44T is metal.

Top speed depends on the battery, motor, and tires (along with gearing). You can do the math pretty easily once you know the OD of the tires used. If you use a 2050kV motor and a 14.8V 4S battery, you can assume the motor will turn around 30k RPMs.

Not sure on torque, but it's still pretty easy once you know the gearing. My question is, does anyone have a torque graph for these motors? Once you know the torque at some specific RPM, torque at the wheels is just motor torque * FDR.

I got a chance to look over my car after running it at the track the other day. Despite some bad landings, the chassis looks great! The DE front bumper/skid did its job nicely. The rear skid is just about worn out at the tail edge. I'm not sure if it's from landing rear end first or from smacking the rear end when hitting the jumps, as some were pretty steep.

What's the usual technique for taking jumps? Do you guys usually stay at a constant speed, or accelerate as you hit the leading edge of the ramp?

You and 500 others are waiting on the Gens Ace
All I have to say is be quick on your order.... I'm getting 3 the second I see them go up! (Then I'll post in here they are for sale after i have mine )

I guarantee this wouldn't have happened if you had a GRID mount. There's no way you can mistaken it to be loose before running and it's built like a tank.

I follow you're logic well here, but I'm curious if it's necessarily correct.

It's true. You have the power there if you want it. For a larger track, you have the power. For a medium track, still... and of course the same story for the smaller tracks...

But from what I've seen the differences in track size consist of a larger straightaway, maybe a few larger jumps, and longer mogul sections. (that's what I call them ).

If you are at a larger track and want more motor, you're only wanting it for the straightaway. It's not going to help you in anything other than the str8. I've personally seen the 1900 - 2050 easily clear doubles and tripples. In situations where there isn't much take off area I see no difference in a 1900 to a 2650 other than the 2650 kicks more dirt.

Racing is finesse, not power. It's about consistent lap times, not the single fastest lap. Do while I follow your logic with track size and toning it down; the fact is you'll never be at correct specs on the medium and large tracks because you will feel you will need more motor for the str8's; when in actuality, that is a very small part of the race.

I just cant see where a 2650 can do more than the 1900 on any other part of the track other than get the driver into more trouble with risk of putting forth too much motor.

with my last order i should have my buggy down to 7lbs.+/- 2 oz. I need setup advise from any one running a light RC8Be. I am running a 6s 1400kv setup for 10 minute mains, SNR chassis, with titanium and aluminum everywhere there was steel.
Thanks Guys

oh, have there been any more development on the riser less arms that were run in the worlds??

Were are you guys buying the ace Batt at