(not thats mine's amazing either!)

NoLuVv, the Fort Walton one is up and running. We had our first race last weekend. Next one is 3/12.
Info on track is here:
http://b-treman-rc.valp.net/btrchome.htm

If your in the area it is always open for practice and it is free.


There is another one opening in Mossey Head.

It most likely is, as all of it is OFC wire with a high strand count. The only thing I don't like about much of the aftermarket speaker wire offerings is that it uses such thick insulation. The Dean's stuff (and there are other brands just as good, like the stock Tekin stuff) is very flexible and the insulation is rather thin. I've been spoiled by Tefzel wire that I use in my race car. Super thin insulation. It makes the wiring very tidy and light. I suppose I've just gotten to the point where I dislike wiring with super thick insulation.

Good deal. Nice to see offers like this. Have any 1900kV or 1700kV Tekin motors just laying around?

Please post pictures when you do this. I'd be very interested in seeing them. It would be ideal to have large bullet connectors on the RX8, IMO. Just so I'm understanding you correctly, you're filling the bullet connector with solder, like you normally would when soldering wire to the bullet connector. However instead of inserting wire, you just turn the ESC upside down and insert the wire post. Seems logical, and a very good idea.

The only observation I have is that I wonder if the additional weight of the bullet connector pieces (both on the wire post and on the wire) adds a significant amount of stress onto the wire post where it's mounted on the ESC board. I would assume not, since you (I assume) haven't had any issues with the way you've done this on your RS Pro, but the wire posts on the RX8 are much taller and might have more leverage on the board. Just a thought.

God am i addicted or what. I woke up this morning and figured I could bike from work to the lhs this afternoon to pick up some wire and the castle creation bullets. Got up, plugged in the soldering station and removed the wires. I then took the motor out, put it in my backpack and biked to work....

See i didnt ruin the motor

Also a TC5 and TC6 don't exactly come slamming down from 5+ ft in the air over and over

*Unsubscribe*

I'm sick of wading through all of the off-topic and misinformed posts to find useful information.

BTW, understatement of the week...no month...year maybe?

k bye.

Before you solder up the new wires, remove some of the solder from the pads. It looks like there's way too much.


How ironic. An off-topic post from someone complaining about off-topic posts! Sorry guys, I'm pretty guilty of this. Is it bothering everyone else? If so, I'll certainly rein it in.

speaker, ace hardware, radio shack or any other similar wire is NOT the same.

That wire is not made to sustain the currents that these electronics deliver.
Get the 12G silicone wire as that is what it is made for.

It is also a good idea to put new wire on after prolonged use.

Gonna have to disagree with high end speaker wire not being able to handle these currents.

Yea for sure, i will probably remove most of it and use some better solder with flux in it.

btw... just ordered 2 of these...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15521

+1. OFC is OFC, and its current handling limits are based on its cross sectional area and length of the conductor. The main differences I see are based on the insulation, strand count (and thus strand gauge) and whether or not the wire is pre-tinned.

Now, if 12 ga speaker wire is smaller than 12 ga RC wire (which it shouldn't be, as the gauge should be standardized across all manufacturers), then I'd agree with idea that 12 gauge speaker wire will not handle as much current.

Another thing to keep in mind is that speaker wire manufacturers might spec a lower current due to the lenth that is being assumed. If you look up some standard wire gauge specs, you'll see that for a 12 gauge wire, max current is usually spec'ed at 40-45A. We run a LOT more than that, but the wire is so short that it doesn't make much of a difference.

IIRC, conventional wisdom is that you want no more than 2% voltage drop over the length of the conductor when calculating max current capacity. For efficient systems, you can try for 0.5% to 1% voltage drop.

Even with 12 gauge wire at 120A for a wire that's only 3" long, with a 4S battery, the voltage drop is only 0.32%. It's even better with 6S at only 0.21%. 10 gauge is better at 0.20% and 0.13%, respectively.

I know how you feel. Sitting there waiting all shiny, sucks. My kid's Slash is a blast though - waterproof ESC and servo. I did waterproof my youngest's Losi desert mini so I'm the only one watching.