Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#3377
#3378
Eh, over engineered is juuuuuuuuuuuust right to me. 
The parts quality and machine work looks absolutely outstanding. Now, parts network is another issue all together, but with as popular as their products are becoming, let's hope Durango parts are carried by more vendors.

The parts quality and machine work looks absolutely outstanding. Now, parts network is another issue all together, but with as popular as their products are becoming, let's hope Durango parts are carried by more vendors.
#3380
I'm the same way as Billy. I don't like cheap looking stuff. Not that the RC8be is cheap looking. But the Durango is exceptional looking. And over engineered is also right up my alley. I work on airplanes for a living. I know what sexy metal looks like. And that's a good looking buggy.
And AMain carries them. That's all we need to know
And AMain carries them. That's all we need to know
#3381
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,104
From: Texas
I'm the same way as Billy. I don't like cheap looking stuff. Not that the RC8be is cheap looking. But the Durango is exceptional looking. And over engineered is also right up my alley. I work on airplanes for a living. I know what sexy metal looks like. And that's a good looking buggy.
#3382
I looked at the Mugen. It's a pretty interesting design as well; however I think the Durango, as Gregg pointed out, is exceptional.
I'm like Gregg. While the changes might mostly be cosmetic, there's something about a well machined piece of metal that screams "quality" and "engineering" to me. It doesn't mean it's better, but to me, it seems to be made to a higher standard.
For example, when I designed the brake caliper brackets for the front brakes on my track car, I could have designed a no-nonsense brake caliper bracket like you find on the (very high quality) StopTech kits:

However, I thought that since I'm having mine custom machined, why not do a little analysis to see where I could lose some weight while keeping an adequate FOS (factor of safety) given certain design criteria. After several prototypes, I ended up with this:



I also did something similar for the rear.
Yeah, I know, the Wilwood calipers aren't as nice as the StopTech's; however the Wilwoods work very very nicely, and the pads are almost 1/2 the price of the pads for the StopTech's ($155 vs $290!). Not to mention that the rotors are cheaper as well ($170 vs $230 each), and I was able to use a thicker rotor with the Wilwood setup (1.25" vs 1.1"). You go through pads and rotors much more quickly than calipers.
I'm like Gregg. While the changes might mostly be cosmetic, there's something about a well machined piece of metal that screams "quality" and "engineering" to me. It doesn't mean it's better, but to me, it seems to be made to a higher standard.
For example, when I designed the brake caliper brackets for the front brakes on my track car, I could have designed a no-nonsense brake caliper bracket like you find on the (very high quality) StopTech kits:

However, I thought that since I'm having mine custom machined, why not do a little analysis to see where I could lose some weight while keeping an adequate FOS (factor of safety) given certain design criteria. After several prototypes, I ended up with this:


I also did something similar for the rear.

Yeah, I know, the Wilwood calipers aren't as nice as the StopTech's; however the Wilwoods work very very nicely, and the pads are almost 1/2 the price of the pads for the StopTech's ($155 vs $290!). Not to mention that the rotors are cheaper as well ($170 vs $230 each), and I was able to use a thicker rotor with the Wilwood setup (1.25" vs 1.1"). You go through pads and rotors much more quickly than calipers.
#3383
BTW, I received those scales today. Don't waste your money on this model. Two are close, the other two are far off. Closer after calibration, but still not enough to be useful. Also, if you just leave something sitting on the scale, you can watch the weight change! On 3 of them, the weight goes down, and on the other, the weight goes up as it sits there. Then it just fluctuates back and forth a good 20 to 30 grams. Even empty, it goes anywhere from -50 to +50 grams... Worthless, IMO.
#3384
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 783
From: Norheimsund, Norway
Out of curiosity i am thinking of buying a couple of scales to try this, i have seen some on about 300 mm wide so then i can weigh the front to back aswell as they cover the whole width of the car. They can take up to 5000 grams so i can use them on my 1/5th scale cars too
The only thing to do to get them to look good is to get rid off the paint on them and leave them blank. Looks like they have been powder painted. Or you can powder paint them
You can always start at page one and scroll through the thread. The alternative is to not see any of the pics

#3385
If you want to corner weight the car and figure out weight distribution, cross weights, etc, you'll need 4 scales. One for each corner.
The shock towers and shock caps are anodized. You cannot remove the anodization like you would remove paint. Oven cleaner is pretty good at removing anodization, but you have to time it carefully as it'll eat the aluminum a bit if left on too long. There are plenty of articles online about removing anodization. I really doubt their hard anodized, so no worries there.
The shock towers and shock caps are anodized. You cannot remove the anodization like you would remove paint. Oven cleaner is pretty good at removing anodization, but you have to time it carefully as it'll eat the aluminum a bit if left on too long. There are plenty of articles online about removing anodization. I really doubt their hard anodized, so no worries there.
#3388
You can go to the thread title on the electric offroad forum and notice the red paper clip on the right of the thread title. That will show you all attachments which should show most of the pictures.
#3389
I would wait until they can back that up. It's a lot of bling that is trying to look like an xray to me and they are known for taking forever and not making any kind of release dates. I did speak with Ryan Lutz this weekend at Motorama who is the team driver for durango and he said it is taking some time to learn the new setups. Really nice guy though. Him and Savoya from France now living in Dallas were both there. Ryan made the A-main and I recall Savoya bumped up from the B main. Neither of them were real front runners all weekend. But you know who dominated? Mayfield and his associated's. This was all nitro by the way, but the electric versions are usually similar. Mayfield was running a car with new towers and a arms that he said would be available soon.
#3390
I would wait until they can back that up. It's a lot of bling that is trying to look like an xray to me and they are known for taking forever and not making any kind of release dates. I did speak with Ryan Lutz this weekend at Motorama who is the team driver for durango and he said it is taking some time to learn the new setups. Really nice guy though. Him and Savoya from France now living in Dallas were both there. Ryan made the A-main and I recall Savoya bumped up from the B main. Neither of them were real front runners all weekend. But you know who dominated? Mayfield and his associated's. This was all nitro by the way, but the electric versions are usually similar. Mayfield was running a car with new towers and a arms that he said would be available soon.



) Is there any way to "paint" or buff these out? I knew I should only run her on the track but you know how it is I'm sure!



