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Team Associated RC8Be Thread

Team Associated RC8Be Thread

Old 02-14-2011, 03:53 PM
  #2626  
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Originally Posted by jasons36
Done and done!! Hey i just traded for an SC8e!! youve got one dont you? im really excited, ive always wanted one, cant wait for it to show up!! Gonna drop in a Tekin combo for sure, just deciding between the 2000 or 2250 truggy setup.
Thanks a lot!

Ya i do.

Here is my setup:

ESC: MMM
MOTOR: 2200kv neu/castle
battery: 4s for the track / 6s for pissing off the nitro guys
Suspension: 40wt front / 35 rear
springs: stiff front / medium back
Hopups: FT steering plate, FT braces,
gearing 15/46
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:24 PM
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does the RC8Be factory team aluminum top plate install in an original RC8e with no additional mods?
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:28 PM
  #2628  
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Clueless on this shock deal....I ran it on a track this weekend and the skid smacked the ground on about every jump. I have the preload on the back shocks almost all the way tight. The front feels alot stiffer than the rear and the rear section of the chassis is scraped up alot worse than the front. I do know the shocks have 25wt oil in the front and rear. The jumps are all pretty big. What do you guys think would be a good starting point?
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by smkmoto
Clueless on this shock deal....I ran it on a track this weekend and the skid smacked the ground on about every jump. I have the preload on the back shocks almost all the way tight. The front feels alot stiffer than the rear and the rear section of the chassis is scraped up alot worse than the front. I do know the shocks have 25wt oil in the front and rear. The jumps are all pretty big. What do you guys think would be a good starting point?
Couple of questions first. What were the air temps outside? Are you using the 10 hole pistons? If you are I believe most setups call for 30 or 35 with the 10 hole.
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:24 PM
  #2630  
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Originally Posted by jasons36
does the RC8Be factory team aluminum top plate install in an original RC8e with no additional mods?
Yes
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:31 PM
  #2631  
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T-minus 2ish weeks till my rc8be
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Couple of questions first. What were the air temps outside? Are you using the 10 hole pistons? If you are I believe most setups call for 30 or 35 with the 10 hole.
Not sure about the ten holes. I bought the car already put together. Does it come with the ten holes?
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:03 PM
  #2633  
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Originally Posted by smkmoto
Not sure about the ten holes. I bought the car already put together. Does it come with the ten holes?
Not normally. What color are your springs on the car? I have been through the same mess with a used xray touring car getting it back to stock format.
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:04 PM
  #2634  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Grid posted last week, telling us there is a alum front diff in the works. I'm waiting. And I will never buy anything Integy again. Complete junk.
Just to give you guys an update. Getting a lot of requests and preorders for this item.

Preorders won't be necessary. Lots will be available once it goes to production then again it can still sell out if we don't make enough.

We have a few designs that one will end up seeing production. The front bulkhead has to be robust, functional and still have the cool factor.

Robust - one piece for max strength
Functional - easy and quick center diff removal
Cool factor - another GRID unique design

We will have pics soon....

Ron
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:09 PM
  #2635  
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Ron, I'll be one of the first in line. BTW, how much for a diff brace with the new logo?
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:10 PM
  #2636  
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Just to give you guys an update. Getting a lot of requests and preorders for this item.

Preorders won't be necessary. Lots will be available once it goes to production then again it can still sell out if we don't make enough.

We have a few designs that one will end up seeing production. The front bulkhead has to be robust, functional and still have the cool factor.

Robust - one piece for max strength
Functional - easy and quick center diff removal
Cool factor - another GRID unique design

We will have pics soon....

Ron

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Old 02-14-2011, 06:25 PM
  #2637  
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Gregg, I am at this point now (read posts below pls) in my build and am not sure where you were having the issue. Is it on the 2 screws holding in the B-plate(3x22 shcs), or the A-plate(3x45 shcs) or somewhere else. I would rather take care of this now and not later. Thanks!

j


Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Your problem with the front plastic bulkhead is normal. We use only the plastic ones because they are very light. Just get a new plastic front bulkhead and replace those front metric screws with 4-40 x 1" socket caps. The stock metric ones have fine threads which chews up the plastic quickly. The 4-40 is imperial and coarse and do not. Keep the rear ones metric.

Also we use plastic rear carriers because they are cheap to replace and hold up well. The other thing to consider is to keep the unsprung weight down. As you go further out from the suspension arms, try using light parts to boost suspension performance. If the wheel/tires could weigh nothing, buggies would drive on rails.
Originally Posted by GreggW
Thats a good idea. I never thought of getting different pitch screws. Thatd a good idea! And I have a spare set of plastic rears because I watched my friend break a set first time out. I broke my right rear upper turnbuckle luckily the hobby shop at the track had a few bags.

Last edited by schnellschnell; 02-14-2011 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:27 PM
  #2638  
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Just to give you guys an update. Getting a lot of requests and preorders for this item.

Preorders won't be necessary. Lots will be available once it goes to production then again it can still sell out if we don't make enough.

We have a few designs that one will end up seeing production. The front bulkhead has to be robust, functional and still have the cool factor.

Robust - one piece for max strength
Functional - easy and quick center diff removal
Cool factor - another GRID unique design

We will have pics soon....

Ron
Looking forward to another fine locally made part!

Last edited by schnellschnell; 02-14-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:46 PM
  #2639  
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ok so the 10.1 pistons use 35 wt for the most part is that cool on most tracks or is that going to be a tuning option and jump size
its been a few years since I messed with 1/8 scale and I raced truggy a while back and that was back in the Nitro days and Hot Bodies for me those days are long gone and so is nitro for me
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Just to give you guys an update. Getting a lot of requests and preorders for this item.

Preorders won't be necessary. Lots will be available once it goes to production then again it can still sell out if we don't make enough.

We have a few designs that one will end up seeing production. The front bulkhead has to be robust, functional and still have the cool factor.

Robust - one piece for max strength
Functional - easy and quick center diff removal
Cool factor - another GRID unique design

We will have pics soon....

Ron
Awesome, thanks Ron. Ill take that as my answered PM.

Originally Posted by 117
Ron, I'll be one of the first in line. BTW, how much for a diff brace with the new logo?
Ron, he'll be right behind me

Originally Posted by schnellschnell
Gregg, I am at this point now (read posts below pls) in my build and am not sure where you were having the issue. Is it on the 2 screws holding in the B-plate(3x22 shcs), or the A-plate(3x45 shcs) or somewhere else. I would rather take care of this now and not later. Thanks!

j
Schnell, this was when my screws on the underside of the chassis weren't getting very tight in the front plastic bulkhead. They are ok, but they aren't really tight. This will be fixed with the front Grid bulkhead.
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