I actually saw what it took to try to run 2 classes at the same time, and I am waaay too lazy for that. Race 1/8th, turn marshall, race 1/10th turn marshall. By the time you get done running the 1/10th turn marshall its time to race 1/8th again. I like a break in between to kick back, eat something, tighten up everything on the car. And I don't really feel like putting another $700 into another buggy.

And no track time, nothing has been mounted on the Chassis.

Gregg, you'd be proud of me. We went and ran the cars at a local lot that usually has soccer fields on it. I suppose they're re-doing the fields, as there was a nice long (probably 20 yards shy of a football field) strip of dirt. It was kind of a crusty sand, i.e. the top layer was firm, but once you broke through the "crust" it was quite sandy underneath with a healthy dose of rocks.

I was impressed with the RC8Be's ability to just soak up the terrain and keep on a straight trajectory at WOT (4S, 2050kV motor, 21T pinion, 46T spur). There was tons of wheel spin since the ground was so sandy. Rooster tails the entire length! With a bunch of WOT passes, motor was at 140F, 3rd LED on the RX8 (IIRC), and about 95F on the battery. Ambient was just under 80F with plenty of sunlight.

I figured it would be kind of sandy, so I tried Pro-Line V3 Bow Ties in the back and Pro-Line V2 Calibers in the front. I was thinking that the Bow Ties would give plenty of forward grip while the Calibers would have plenty of side grip (yeah, I know, I have a lot to learn about tires) to give me some nice turn in response, and it actually worked pretty good!

Got the car pretty friggin dirty (hence the reason why you'd be proud ), but having a nice big air compressor at home makes clean up pretty easy.

It sounds like I'm getting some ticking noise under light throttle while cornering, so I need to look into that.

My kiddo's MERV didn't do as well. He didn't even get a chance to try out his new caliber tires. He went about 30 feet and the steering locked full left. We brought it home, and I'm able to move the servo with no power, but once I apply power and turn on the radio, it goes full left. If I turn the steering to the right on the radio, it'll s-l-o-w-l-y move to the right, but once I let go, it goes immediately left. I removed the cover and the servo motor just spins (when I remove the servo hub that the servo horn bolts to). From what I've been reading, servo is likely toast. It's a Futaba S3102, so I'm thinking of replacing it with a KO Propo PDS3101, although I'm irritated that I have to replace it at all. To top it off, the rear diff gear ring is munched too. I just finished replacing the front...

Finally!!! Its about time you got the Be off the shelf!!

Its a nice driver for sure, I didnt know that we had the EXACT same specs! You following me around? Haha! good times out there for sure.

That sucks about your kids MERV. If its not one thing, its another. Let me know if you need a spare bone stock MERV, Ill sell you mine cheap

Things are almost the same for me, I cant make it out without breaking something. Its getting annoying. I've walked away from the track every time this year with something broken.

Yes it will.

That is correct, nothing wrong with your memory

It is hard to give my opinion with something i haven't tested/tried yet, but the previous owner bashed these to death without having any issues with them, even ran in some norwegian championship with them, and when i took them and the car apart they looked absolutely fine with no slop whatsoever. They also fit well.

So in fact they positively surprised me. My nose wrinkled a bit when i first saw them before buying the car, but i thought lets try them out! As this is a static parts whose task is just to "hold something" i think it is doing great. But i have no belief in their A-arms and similar "moving" parts.

I knew there was something wrong with me when I realized I still know the VIN numbers to all of my last 5 cars, from memory of course.

Agreed, they do next to nothing but hold gears. They do however provide support for the shock towers. So if you find yourself casing jumps and bending upper shock bolts and standoffs, I would throw caution to the wind. You might just end up ripping the shock tower mount screws out of the diff.

Anyone have an idea of what might have happened here?

Left side rear wheel (right side wheels look perfect on the inside):



Left side rear hub:


Right side rear hub:


More left side rear hub pictures:



Looks like perhaps a rock (or rocks) got caught up between the hub and the inside of the wheel? You can see all the nicks in the plastic rod end and the nicks in the rear hub. The right side looks perfectly fine. No damage. On the wheel, there are grooves in the plastic. It's not discoloration. Looks like the tape I used to cover the holes in the Pro-Line wheels and at least one of my stick on weights were hit as well. I mounted the wheel, and I cannot see how the wheel could flex enough on its own to do that, so I'm thinking it has to be debris of some kind, as there were plenty of small rocks and pebbles on the ground I was running the car on.

Any ideas? Surely the bearings aren't so sloppy that the wheel is moving that much?

I've never seen anything like that. You say the brown lines are grooves? How in the world? I can't even see something loose in there making those grooves perfectly straight like that. That's crazy. It's not fluid?

No, I can catch my fingernail on the grooves. There are certainly grooves in the plastic. Crazy huh???

I thought maybe it was the dirt shields, as I had to trim them a bit to fit the V3 wheels, but nope, no damage to them at all.

One possibility would be to get something stuck in between the rock guard and the front side of the hub. Or between the rock guard and the inside of the wheel.

I'm like 90% positive that is from a rock that got caught up. Didn't you say you were running on a hard crust but sand like lower surface? Iv got these lines on thee inside of my b4 wheels and tmaxx wheels. It was probably a small pebble that got stuck in-between t all. I dint think it's anything to worry about

also, your rod end that attaches to hub to should be flipped 180˚...I am thinking some debris was stuck in there too!

What side put pistons 89456 into shock body?

+1 on the rod end. just swap them around without having to twist the ends.

Thats w good question, I dont personally run these. Ive been meaning to get around to buying some, but I havent. I know Billy has them, Billy what way did you install them?

taper side down, flat side up.
The taper is designed to deliver quicker down travel