All I have for mod 1 pinions is a 21. I'll need to get something smaller.

At least run it and see where your temps are at. When I ran that motor I ran the 18T. I was more concerned with keeping temps down than getting the best possible performance. These cars are already too fast!

Last weekend when I broke my steering servo, I temped after 22 minutes brought it off the track at 124 motor case, 131 on the pinion side. Battery was 86 esc was 81

That was with your castle, no?

Why would you trade out the RC8B stand-offs for the old FT RC8/RC8e stand-offs? I've run both stand-offs and managed to bend two stand-off screws while running the aluminum stand-offs. That has never happened with the new steel stand-offs. When in doubt, assume AE made an update to the kit for a reason.

Several years ago, I learned the hard way to never run Integy parts on any of my RC cars. Total junk. And besides, blinging out your servo with that crappy aluminum horn won't increase performance and will most likely ruin your servo. Think about it. Would you rather have a plastic horn strip out and leave your servo in tact or would you rather have your aluminum horn strip out and trash your servo?


That local "know-it-all" guy doesn't know what he's talking about. I've been using the same FASST transmitter and receivers for more than four years and never had a glitch. In my opinion, FASST is more reliable than Spektrum because it can hop channels every 20 milliseconds and it's always looking for the best available channel on the entire 2.4 GHz band whereas Spektrum is pretty much bind and drive. That said, Spektrum seems just as reliable as FASST at the local track. It's the plane guys who are hesitant to jump on the Spektrum bandwagon because they don't want to use inferior technology to control their planes that go much further away from their transmitters than our cars usually do.

I quit racing onroad because my car ended up spending more time on the tweak board and on the set-up station than it did on the track and my tires ended up spending more time on the truing station than on the track. I'll be damned if I get a set-up station for my eight pound pig of an RC8Be. But you never know, if someone manages to beat me next weekend, I might change my mind.

Thats the reason I bought what I thought was the FT ones because like everything else, they were blue, and the first time I got toppled by a truggy with my steel ones it bent my screws. I see now that the Blue ones are nothing but lighter, and Im sure, weaker. no big deal. Ill get some decent stainless screws hopefully they are a little stronger and I wont have to worry about the stockers bending anyway.

And If you look in my sig, my AE DS1015 lasted 3 hours last weekend being the first time I had run it at the track. They already had to ship me a new one. The potentiometer took a dump. Was it from the original alum servo horn? Who knows. If it happens again, I will change to something else. I figure with the lock screws clamping down and the center screw holding it on, all loctited, I should be in decent shape. And with as much bad talk about the integy stuff I may have to re think their brand new billet hard anodized hubs.

Also, Tower Hobbies has set the new standard for me. Not only did I save $50 on my order. Their Free super saver shipping delivers tomorrow. I just ordered this morning. amain is closer, and it took a day longer, and I had to pay tax and shipping.

If my DS1015 gets here tomorrow from Associated, I can run this weekend. wEwT~!~!

Also for the guys waiting, The Spektrum DX3R Pro is out.

There are other stations that are cheaper, but I think you should still reference their setup manual which is available for free on the internet. All the set up questions that you can think of with explanations are covered in it with a chart in the back of order of priority for different conditions to change your vehicle to correct it. There are plenty of my tool does the same as hudy threads on here, but you get what you pay for. If you are not going to race you want to go by the eye ball camber gauge against the tire, losi makes one and other manufacturers do also. I believe rpm has a toe gauge also that works by measuring the difference between the track width of the front and rear portions of the tires.

I wouldn't be surprised if the aluminum horn was the culprit. The plastic horm might have had just enough flex to keep your servo from taking the big dirt nap, With the abuse that these buggies take, they need to flex in all the right places and that's one of the reasons why I think the RC8B is one of the best buggies on the market right now.

Why take a chance with the integy stuff when you can just buy the AE aluminum hubs? They're sexy! P.S. The only Integy thing I bought that was worth a crap is their shock shaft maintenance plier.

I always thought that's what the servo saver is for.

I've read a few first hand reviews of the Integy 1/8 offroad setup station that were favorable. However, after reading all the other reviews of Integy products, I stuck with Hudy for a setup station.

Gregg, it depends on the steel used and the aluminum used. If the steel standoffs are plain carbon steel and the aluminum standoffs are 7075, it could quite possibly be that the aluminum standoffs will be stronger, however I imagine you are correct that the aluminum standoffs might be a tad weaker. Nevertheless, I think the shock standoffs get most of their strength from the screws used to mount the shock standoffs and shocks. After looking at the standoffs, I'm not sure that the base of the standoff is large enough to give the screw adequate support and remove much of the bending load from the screw. Ideally, that's how the joint would be designed, however since it's in a single shear configuration, I imagine there's quite a bending load on the screw, regardless of the material the standoff is made from. I also would guess that the screw is a 12.9 metric screw (however, I could very well be wrong, since a 12.9 metric screw is going to be more expensive than a lower grade 8.8 screw). Upgrading to stainless may make the screw more prone to bending, depending on the type of stainless used. I'd be more inclined to try a grade 12.9 screw first. Keep in mind that a 12.9 screw may not bend, but it'll just break since it's a bit more brittle (however it is stronger). I've often wondered if the shock towers should be designed such that the shock screws are loaded in double shear (like the lower mounting pins).

Agreed; I've never had a bit of trouble from either FASST transmitter I've been using.

Could you not get Lunsford Ti screws for the shock standoff's?

Still waiting for bearings to arrive. Been 2 weeks now so must have been sent using a pigeon on its last legs. So still stuck for something to do!

Stripped down my diffs last night and away to sand the cups a little. What a nightmare cleaning off diff fluid! Soaked the lot in detergent overnight and still didn't get rid of it all. All clean now though.

Got my Losi wheel balancer delivered today with my Reedy 720 so have just balanced both sets of wheels. The Split Six with Road Rage tyres needed way more clay to balance. Looks like the tyre balancer was a sound investment! I'd go and solder the deans connections onto the battery but ideally want to have it all fitted up before making any decisions on lengths of wire. Rainy day and nothing to do...

Bah, shisters......
I bought a 19T. So, according to Randy I'm undergeared...

Did the same myself (19T) although i got a 17T and 21T as well so i can play about either way if needed. (46T spur).

I used mainly 19T and occasionally 20T in my 1900 and had 0 issues on a medium size track. If it gets hot, go to 20..if not, do not worry about it.

You would want to do the opposite. If your motor gets hot you want to pinion down.