Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#1801
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Front suspension is finally assembled.....
Wouldn't ya know it, the instruction manual didn't label (or on the part) left or right on the steering blocks
And if someone can put it on backwards first try, it'll be me. So..... an hour of rework tonight, but the front suspension is done and on the car. (Taxes are done too)
My Grid motor mount should be here this week sometime, and my Tekin motor & rx8 is expected to be here Feb. 4th. All I did was order the mount; but am I missing something? Some kind of plate or something? I see some talk about it. Not sure if I'm out in left field on this one.
Let the building continue... but for now, bed
Wouldn't ya know it, the instruction manual didn't label (or on the part) left or right on the steering blocks

And if someone can put it on backwards first try, it'll be me. So..... an hour of rework tonight, but the front suspension is done and on the car. (Taxes are done too)
My Grid motor mount should be here this week sometime, and my Tekin motor & rx8 is expected to be here Feb. 4th. All I did was order the mount; but am I missing something? Some kind of plate or something? I see some talk about it. Not sure if I'm out in left field on this one.
Let the building continue... but for now, bed
#1802
#1803
Dishwasher...interesting idea...
Sarinexia,
All you need is the Grid mount, but you might want to go pick up some M3x10mm and M4x10mm screws for the mount since you're going with a Tekin motor. See my post a couple of pages back.
If you want to run the mount with the diff riser, you'll need some slightly shorter M3 flat head screws. 10mm would give you the same depth as the stock 14mm screws, but I tried 12mm long flat head screws and they worked fine.
Sarinexia,
All you need is the Grid mount, but you might want to go pick up some M3x10mm and M4x10mm screws for the mount since you're going with a Tekin motor. See my post a couple of pages back.
If you want to run the mount with the diff riser, you'll need some slightly shorter M3 flat head screws. 10mm would give you the same depth as the stock 14mm screws, but I tried 12mm long flat head screws and they worked fine.
#1804
#1805
Yeah, I just take the electronics off of it and toss it in. I mean the bearings are sealed and the rest of it is just medal and plastic. I just give it a WD40 bath when I pull it out. And I hit the CVs with dry lube, which doesn't attract dirt. I got it from a friend at the track. Also I think if makes the plastics more pliable and flexible from the hot water. I haven't broken anything since. I just lost some wing mount standoffs, which I ordered the new aluminum wing kit today.
#1806
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 551
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Yeah, I just take the electronics off of it and toss it in. I mean the bearings are sealed and the rest of it is just medal and plastic. I just give it a WD40 bath when I pull it out. And I hit the CVs with dry lube, which doesn't attract dirt. I got it from a friend at the track. Also I think if makes the plastics more pliable and flexible from the hot water. I haven't broken anything since. I just lost some wing mount standoffs, which I ordered the new aluminum wing kit today.
#1809

its not even really dirty by the time I put it in there. But its more to get the little areas rather than slaving over a sink with a brush.
#1811
Last edited by GreggW; 01-31-2011 at 09:23 PM.
#1814
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 551
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I used to be a huge toxic chemical fan, until I worked in the wheel and tire shop when I worked on F-16s. We used to use Simple Green to clean the wheels and then take the wheel bolts and crop them in a bucket of Simple Green and clean them with a brush one by one. This worked great until we sent them to NDI (X-Ray for cracks) Simple Green would stress crack magnesium alloy bolts. So that just isnt for me anymore. 

maybe I'll just try wd40 or brake cleaner.
#1815



