Team Associated RC8Be Thread
01-30-2011 | 05:01 PM
#1727
I don't honestly know, as I've never driven mine with the plastic braces. However, I imagine there's a very good chance that the aluminum braces are stiffer, which should stiffen the entire chassis. To me, that's a good thing. 
01-30-2011 | 05:06 PM
#1728
01-30-2011 | 05:32 PM
#1729
It has really good specs. Among the best. So maybe it's got something to do with crashing. Funny thing is though. Thats all I broke besides the wing mount standoffs. Which were ripped completely out. I'll take a look at the 7955. But this thing is under warranty. So they will definitely fix it. Problem is, is it going to be enough servo or was this just a fluke!?
Yeah I know. I'll check it out. If it has the same specs, I may as well stick with this one.
Yeah I know. I'll check it out. If it has the same specs, I may as well stick with this one.
01-30-2011 | 05:35 PM
#1730
01-30-2011 | 05:36 PM
#1731
What are you doing in that video? It sounds like you're turning the wheel then letting it snap back to center. Are you holding it left or right to see what the servo does? I can't tell in the vid. Whenever my kiddo would strip the gears in the 1/16 Revo steering servo, the servo would sound fairly normal, except when it would try to turn in the direction of the stripped gear, then it would just click. It would turn fine in the other direction, though.
Also, anyone have any idea how to mount these Ofna belted slicks with the funky two piece foams?
Also, anyone have any idea how to mount these Ofna belted slicks with the funky two piece foams?
01-30-2011 | 05:39 PM
#1734
01-30-2011 | 05:45 PM
#1735
Hey guys, I'm back for real now. Last week we were at the "happiest place on Earth! (aka Disney World)" Fun trip, but it really wears you out!! Glad to be back, but not looking forward to work tomorrow. 
Anyway, I had a bunch of stuff come in while I was gone, so I'm doing a bit of work on the car today. I'll post some pictures later. Right now, I'm working on installing the RX8. A couple of minor observations.
The documentation for the HotWire software is seriously lacking. I still need to do some research on how to set the custom voltage cutoff. I'm not crazy about an 18V 6S and 12V 4S cutoff. However, from what I read online before my purchase, one could set the voltage per cell for the cutoff, like the MMM software. From what I've seen of the Tekin user interface, though, you have to set the overall voltage cutoff. So in order to use 3.2V per cell for 6S and 4S, one must connect the ESC to the HotWire module and manually change the voltage cutoff. That's no problem for someone who runs all the same size (voltage-wise) packs, but I have 5S and 6S packs with a bunch of 4S packs on the way.
I think the user interface could use some work, as I prefer to type my settings in, not use up or down arrows or click on up/down arrows in the GUI. There are some places where you can type settings into the GUI, but not many (unless I'm doing something wrong, which is possible, due to the lack of documentation).
Also, I'm missing a fan screw, and for some reason Tekin included two M3 x 8mm screws along with two 6-32 x 3/8 screws. The end bell actually uses 3mm and 4mm screws. The 6-32 screws WILL fit into the 4mm holes, but will cause a very slight amount of damage to the threads (don't ask me how I know). When I first opened the package, I thought that the larger screws looked really odd. Anyway, I was dumb enough to try them and damaged one of the 4mm screw holes on the end bell.
To make a long story short, I mounted the Grid motor mount plate with the end bell removed from the T8 motor and found that 8mm screws do not engage all of the threads on the end bell. I went by the hardware store and bought some M3 x 10mm screws along with some M4 x 10mm screws. Everything fits the Grid mount fine. Although, I will mention that the Grid mount is a tad tight around the screw heads, and I found that the M4 x 10mm button head screws that I bought were binding on the Grid mount (the hole that is closest to the edge). The problem appears to be the lack of concentricity of the button head to the axis of the screw. Mine must not have been that great, as there was quite a bit of runout on the head. Fortunately, I have a small lathe, so I was able to turn the OD of the button head down a bit. Now everything fits like a glove.
Also, the motor shaft on the Neu motors is quite a bit longer than the Tekin T8s. A regular M1 pinion will fit on the Neu motors with the Grid mount, no problem, but would likely not fit with the Tekin motors. I am using Hot Bodies M1 pinions, and the pinion is almost flush with the end of the shaft on the T8.
I'm also working on shortening my steering servo wire. I found that my pimpy (i.e. expensive) Honda pin crimper works awesome on the A Main Futaba servo connector kit, and I'm able to make crimps that look darn near factory. So I'm going to shorten my steering servo wire and make an extension for the RX8 that's just the perfect length.
Finally, I'm replacing the caps on my front shocks due to some damage. I removed the shocks from the car and put them in my pimpy (i.e. cardboard) shock holder. To do so, I had to remove the springs and pull the shock boot down. There is a noticeable amount of clean oil residue on the inside of the shock boot. Anyone else notice this? Is this fairly normal, or should I rebuild the shocks completely?
Finally, I'm also going to get the Ofna belted slicks mounted. I'll be sure to take some pictures. Everything looks well made, but I'm not crazy about the two-piece foam inserts that you have to cut to fit. Also, the rubber used in the tires is very soft, but it stinks. Like stinks bad. Really bad!
Last week we were at the "happiest place on Earth! (aka Disney World)" Fun trip, but it really wears you out!! Glad to be back, but not looking forward to work tomorrow. Anyway, I had a bunch of stuff come in while I was gone, so I'm doing a bit of work on the car today. I'll post some pictures later. Right now, I'm working on installing the RX8. A couple of minor observations.
The documentation for the HotWire software is seriously lacking. I still need to do some research on how to set the custom voltage cutoff. I'm not crazy about an 18V 6S and 12V 4S cutoff. However, from what I read online before my purchase, one could set the voltage per cell for the cutoff, like the MMM software. From what I've seen of the Tekin user interface, though, you have to set the overall voltage cutoff. So in order to use 3.2V per cell for 6S and 4S, one must connect the ESC to the HotWire module and manually change the voltage cutoff. That's no problem for someone who runs all the same size (voltage-wise) packs, but I have 5S and 6S packs with a bunch of 4S packs on the way.
I think the user interface could use some work, as I prefer to type my settings in, not use up or down arrows or click on up/down arrows in the GUI. There are some places where you can type settings into the GUI, but not many (unless I'm doing something wrong, which is possible, due to the lack of documentation).Also, I'm missing a fan screw, and for some reason Tekin included two M3 x 8mm screws along with two 6-32 x 3/8 screws. The end bell actually uses 3mm and 4mm screws. The 6-32 screws WILL fit into the 4mm holes, but will cause a very slight amount of damage to the threads (don't ask me how I know). When I first opened the package, I thought that the larger screws looked really odd. Anyway, I was dumb enough to try them and damaged one of the 4mm screw holes on the end bell.
To make a long story short, I mounted the Grid motor mount plate with the end bell removed from the T8 motor and found that 8mm screws do not engage all of the threads on the end bell. I went by the hardware store and bought some M3 x 10mm screws along with some M4 x 10mm screws. Everything fits the Grid mount fine. Although, I will mention that the Grid mount is a tad tight around the screw heads, and I found that the M4 x 10mm button head screws that I bought were binding on the Grid mount (the hole that is closest to the edge). The problem appears to be the lack of concentricity of the button head to the axis of the screw. Mine must not have been that great, as there was quite a bit of runout on the head. Fortunately, I have a small lathe, so I was able to turn the OD of the button head down a bit. Now everything fits like a glove.
Also, the motor shaft on the Neu motors is quite a bit longer than the Tekin T8s. A regular M1 pinion will fit on the Neu motors with the Grid mount, no problem, but would likely not fit with the Tekin motors. I am using Hot Bodies M1 pinions, and the pinion is almost flush with the end of the shaft on the T8.
I'm also working on shortening my steering servo wire. I found that my pimpy (i.e. expensive) Honda pin crimper works awesome on the A Main Futaba servo connector kit, and I'm able to make crimps that look darn near factory. So I'm going to shorten my steering servo wire and make an extension for the RX8 that's just the perfect length.
Finally, I'm replacing the caps on my front shocks due to some damage. I removed the shocks from the car and put them in my pimpy (i.e. cardboard) shock holder. To do so, I had to remove the springs and pull the shock boot down. There is a noticeable amount of clean oil residue on the inside of the shock boot. Anyone else notice this? Is this fairly normal, or should I rebuild the shocks completely?
Finally, I'm also going to get the Ofna belted slicks mounted. I'll be sure to take some pictures. Everything looks well made, but I'm not crazy about the two-piece foam inserts that you have to cut to fit. Also, the rubber used in the tires is very soft, but it stinks. Like stinks bad. Really bad!
01-30-2011 | 05:50 PM
#1736
I have the 7955 and 7954sh and tell you the truth there is not much difference. The gears do not seem to be the problem with hi-tecs. Mine have all been the boards in them. I have not had one fail in awhile though. Setting your EPA is usually the saver for most of these servos.
01-30-2011 | 06:07 PM
#1738
End Point Adjustment
jmackani, I used all four screws on the fan, tightened gently. After my test run, the fan was running with 2 LEDs lit for internal temp. I listened to it for a bit, as I was double checking the temp, and the fan sounded completely normal (i.e. it didn't sound like the blades were hitting anything). I'll double check tomorrow and maybe space the fan down a bit if there is a clearance issue.
As for the Ofna belted slicks, they're a PITA to mount. I looked on Ofna's site and found some instructions. You have to use foam glue (CA attacks the foam), and glue the narrow piece of foam to the wheel (the instructions say to peel the tape from the foam, and tape the foam in place, but the foam that came with the tires has no adhesive) and glue the ends together. For the main piece of foam, the ends need to be glued together, and it's installed in the tire. Finally, the tire is installed on the wheel. Yeah, easy, right? Since I have to use bands to hold the foam in place while the glue dries, it's going to take a few days to get these tires properly mounted. I'm going to have to go slow and be sure I'm doing it right as 4 of these tires is NOT cheap!!
jmackani, I used all four screws on the fan, tightened gently. After my test run, the fan was running with 2 LEDs lit for internal temp. I listened to it for a bit, as I was double checking the temp, and the fan sounded completely normal (i.e. it didn't sound like the blades were hitting anything). I'll double check tomorrow and maybe space the fan down a bit if there is a clearance issue.
As for the Ofna belted slicks, they're a PITA to mount. I looked on Ofna's site and found some instructions. You have to use foam glue (CA attacks the foam), and glue the narrow piece of foam to the wheel (the instructions say to peel the tape from the foam, and tape the foam in place, but the foam that came with the tires has no adhesive) and glue the ends together. For the main piece of foam, the ends need to be glued together, and it's installed in the tire. Finally, the tire is installed on the wheel. Yeah, easy, right? Since I have to use bands to hold the foam in place while the glue dries, it's going to take a few days to get these tires properly mounted. I'm going to have to go slow and be sure I'm doing it right as 4 of these tires is NOT cheap!!
01-30-2011 | 08:26 PM
#1740
Took the top cover off the servo, nothing is broken. Looks like the servo motor quit. I don't believe there is an R/C vehicle out there that could break this gearset. We are talking about a heavy gear train. The owners manual says nothing about how long the servo can be used constantly. I used it for 5-6 packs like I said earlier, with 15-20 minute breaks in between packs.