And Billy, I've got the 2200 motor and I'm gonna go 6S with the 21 tooth pinion. It's gonna do back flips. Lol

Start with 16T if you have the 46t spur...I have been running the 2200kv motor and 4s lipo for a long time, drives very nice with the 16t, temps after 15min. motor 110F, ESC 125F.

In my truggy I shredded the internal diff gears both front and rear a couple weekends ago. My hypothesis on cause is that the mugen gaskets are 2-3 times as thick as the el-cheapo paper gasket from associated, which pushed the gear mesh apart just ever so slightly... I went back to the paper gaskets with kyosho o-rings, and made sure to sand the diff cases.

If I were going to use the mugen gaskets again, I would consider shimming the planetary gears or aggressively sanding the diff case to make up for the thickness of the mugen gasket.

Just my experience...take fwiw

I have two rx8's and they both have been back for repair once. After that they have been rock solid. I run them in a hot bodies ve8 and jammin scrt10. Sensor wires do break. I have only ever had one sensor board go bad in a novak ballistic. With that being said, I am still happy enough with the tekin's that I bought two complete systems for each my sons' rc8be's. I have also had the mmp systems and the biggest part that I do not like is the bec circuitry not providing enough power to the servos and transponders. They will glitch without running spektrum capacitor. I have cooked one mmp also. Castle's warranty is top notch though. I just think the tekin is a little more race worthy for me.

Hobby king now has a US Warehouse also. Shipping time should be the same.

The Mugen gasket is roughly twice as thick as the AE gasket, or about 0.005" thicker (see http://www.rctech.net/forum/8454270-post972.html). The AE spider gear shims are a tad over 0.005" thick, and when I tried sanding with the Mugen gasket and an extra shim, the diff did not feel as smooth. If we could find a 0.003" shim that has the same dimensions as the AE shim, I think that would be the ideal setup.

You could sand 0.005" of material from the diff cup, but be careful to keep everything straight. If you don't sand evenly, the spur could develop quite a bit of runout.

I have a spare cup, so I might try turning the end down on my lathe, but that might be kind of tricky.

Thanks for your input. I'd like to give the RX8 a try, but we'll see how the MMM works out. Maybe if the stuttering really bothers me.

Last time I checked, Hobby King did not have the 5S or 6S 3000mAh batteries in the US warehouse, unfortunately.

does anyone have the correct part number for the diff O rings? i searched but cant find them...

89121 is the part number. It's the same part number, just new parts in the bags.

awesome...thanks!

Yes they do.

5s
20c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15011

6s
20c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15012
30c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=16193
35c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14954
40c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15002

Let me clarify. The last time I checked, the batteries I ordered were not available in the US warehouse. As for the ones you listed,

5s
20c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15011
20C would probably not work well in an RC8Be, and this battery is going to be somewhat of a tight fit since it's 142mm long.

6s
20c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15012
20C would probably not work well in an RC8Be, again due to its rating.

30c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=16193
I would probably not use a 30C battery either, but it might work ok. If the length is correct, though, this one is way too long.

35c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14954
This one should fit, and would likely be a pretty good choice. I, personally, ordered 40C batteries, and of the ones I purchased, none were available in the US. The 6S 40C battery I ordered was very similar to this one, though.

40c http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=15002
This one is too long for the stock battery tray. You can cut the tray and get it to fit, though. I was really hopeful that this one was going to be the one I ordered, but alas it is not.

That's what I was going to add. I measured the tray with a dial caliper and I think the inside without the foam is 143. So that would fit but it would be tight. But Billy, I forgot this weekend that I talked to 2 guys that know other people using Losi trays in our cars. So I might get one for $11 just to see how it fits. He had the Losi tray in all 3 of his cars there and his Mugen has the exact same wheel base as my car. So this might just work. And I'm telling you this tray is massive. Over 160 for sure.

I don't have a losi tray in my RC8Be, but I do have one in my Jammin X2 CRT. Its a great tray. Holds far larger batteries and has threads to accept the traxxas MMM mount. You may have to drill some holes in your chassis to accommodate it though.

I may get one and test fit it. If it doesn't fit, I'll sell it. But I would servo tape it in. You servo tape the whole bottom and you'll have to break it to get it out.

If you're referring to the esc, it will break if you servo tape it. Land to hard and the MMM will come apart ripping the top from the bottom. It has happened to a lot of people.