20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
01-10-2011 | 04:44 AM
#1411
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
From: Barnsley UK
hello new to touring cars I have just started playin around with my tc6 and wanted to implement Keven Herbert Timezone setup that i found on petit rc
I have a couple questions about the setup That I was wondering if anybody could help me with
1.Is the rear toe +3 degree in total does that mean +1.5degree on each rear wheel?
When the set-up sheet states 3 degrees of rear toe, you should run 3 degrees of toe on each wheel, 3 degrees is 2.5mm shim at the RWD arm mount on both sides, with 0mm at the FWD arm mount.
2. The rear camber link position used in the setup is 1A but when in that position the links do not adjust short enough to get the camber the setup calls for Do you need shorter links to use these positions?
When i built my car i noticed that the links where to long to run the 1-6 positions on the shock tower i removed 2-3mm worth of thread from both sides of the link which was a suitable solution, the links are still long enough to run the 7 positions front and rear. The TC5 links are the best solution but shortening them is also a option if you dont have any TC5 links.
3.The setup calls for "silver" ball studs do these studs have longer threads or is the neck of the ball stud itself longer
The silver ball studs are 0.75mm taller than the black balls on the pillar between the threads and the ball itself, in a quick fix situation you can also run the black ball and a 1mm shim as Buckaroo stated.
4.last in the setup it calls for arm mount shims in millimeters but the manual says they represent different degrees. Is it a typo on the setup sheet or should i measure the shims and go with what the setup says ?
Which arm mount shims that are used in this setup
With the TC5/6 1* of toe is equal to 0.8mm, to get 3 degrees of toe you will need to run either 2.5mm of aluminium shims(3 degrees is equal to 2.4mm but we run 2.5 on our cars to acheive 3 degrees) or you can run a big and a small plastic arm mount shim that comes with the kit
ADDED thought maybe i am confusing arm mount shims with FWD or RWD mount shims or are they the same thing?
The way i see the FWD and RWD arm mount shims are that the FWD arm mount is always in front of the wishbone and the RWD arm mount is behind the wishbone
What are the RWD and FWD mount shims?
The FWD and RWD arm mount shims are spacers that go between the bulkhead and the arm mounts and through changing these for different sizes you can adjust your toe and track width of your car
I have a couple questions about the setup That I was wondering if anybody could help me with
1.Is the rear toe +3 degree in total does that mean +1.5degree on each rear wheel?
When the set-up sheet states 3 degrees of rear toe, you should run 3 degrees of toe on each wheel, 3 degrees is 2.5mm shim at the RWD arm mount on both sides, with 0mm at the FWD arm mount.
2. The rear camber link position used in the setup is 1A but when in that position the links do not adjust short enough to get the camber the setup calls for Do you need shorter links to use these positions?
When i built my car i noticed that the links where to long to run the 1-6 positions on the shock tower i removed 2-3mm worth of thread from both sides of the link which was a suitable solution, the links are still long enough to run the 7 positions front and rear. The TC5 links are the best solution but shortening them is also a option if you dont have any TC5 links.
3.The setup calls for "silver" ball studs do these studs have longer threads or is the neck of the ball stud itself longer
The silver ball studs are 0.75mm taller than the black balls on the pillar between the threads and the ball itself, in a quick fix situation you can also run the black ball and a 1mm shim as Buckaroo stated.
4.last in the setup it calls for arm mount shims in millimeters but the manual says they represent different degrees. Is it a typo on the setup sheet or should i measure the shims and go with what the setup says ?
Which arm mount shims that are used in this setup
With the TC5/6 1* of toe is equal to 0.8mm, to get 3 degrees of toe you will need to run either 2.5mm of aluminium shims(3 degrees is equal to 2.4mm but we run 2.5 on our cars to acheive 3 degrees) or you can run a big and a small plastic arm mount shim that comes with the kit
ADDED thought maybe i am confusing arm mount shims with FWD or RWD mount shims or are they the same thing?
The way i see the FWD and RWD arm mount shims are that the FWD arm mount is always in front of the wishbone and the RWD arm mount is behind the wishbone
What are the RWD and FWD mount shims?
The FWD and RWD arm mount shims are spacers that go between the bulkhead and the arm mounts and through changing these for different sizes you can adjust your toe and track width of your car
Last edited by Ben Putt; 01-10-2011 at 05:07 AM.
01-10-2011 | 05:14 AM
#1412
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 79
From: Denmark
01-10-2011 | 01:45 PM
#1417
Got my new bulkhead from Associated today. 3 day turn around! Car is all together, just waiting on my Tekin!
Yeah, noted that today. My LTC-R fit fine, no issues, but my MazdaSpeed 6 would not. Had to put 4mm spacers, like you said, to get the post tall enough. Strange!
Yeah, noted that today. My LTC-R fit fine, no issues, but my MazdaSpeed 6 would not. Had to put 4mm spacers, like you said, to get the post tall enough. Strange!
01-10-2011 | 05:09 PM
#1418
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,486
That being said, the LTC-R is better all around for me though so it doesn't really matter.
01-10-2011 | 07:51 PM
#1420
?
01-11-2011 | 05:25 PM
#1424
Gotcha. Mine seems to fit, but VERY tight, with the top hole when trimmed for proper height and ROAR body gauged. I have found that the part number 4535 body posts, used in the front of the TC6, are tall enough to solve any TC body mount problem, going all the way back to the Stratus 2.0!
01-12-2011 | 04:35 AM
#1425
stock setup
has anyone tried the box stock setup? I and going to club race sat on very high traction aspualt, hopefully it is close to working
Is there an other setup that would give the car good rotation in turns on this type of track?
Is there an other setup that would give the car good rotation in turns on this type of track?