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Old 06-13-2011 | 03:43 AM
  #2911  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
Sounds like the best place to start looking. Check for tweak after each screw tightened to isolate the exact area.
mistery solved!

DOH!

i use the yokomo sway bar things that stop the side to side movement the rear bar had moved and was pushing on the bulkhead causing the tweak

i didnt think about it till after i took the sways bars off and the tweek was gone

thanks for the advice Verndog, it got me looking in the right direction

Ed
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Old 06-13-2011 | 12:59 PM
  #2912  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Our TC6's did very good on the track today. Very, very impressive day with my TC6 . Being that I haven't ran onroad in quite awhile, I had a bit of trepidation. I wanted to try the box-stock setup but.....NOT!! I had the car a bit wider, softer suspension and with PPD Billet and ReflexRacing hopups, I had to try different things.
I must admit, with some of the issues I had building the kit, those things were COMPLETELY forgotten about when the car hit the track. The car felt very confidence-inspiring. My driving was a bit off; but several guys were very impressed with its performance. With the amount of cars in 17.5, I was happy to be 7th in the show. Ended up 7th overall; but this gives me a solid platform to build on. .....now to switch out my current motor to a D3
Yep, TC6's with Dial-A-Grips 1st and 2nd, and JayBee your car won the concourse hands down. Your car is an aesthetic masterpiece!
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Old 06-13-2011 | 01:16 PM
  #2913  
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Originally Posted by bshookup
Yep, TC6's with Dial-A-Grips 1st and 2nd, and JayBee your car won the concourse hands down. Your car is an aesthetic masterpiece!
Brian and Cantrel no doubt have their cars working great.
I was having a problem with push on med bite asphalt and raised the rear dial-a-grips up .75mm to equiv. of 3A and whola...5 minutes later problem solved! Thanks for the advise Brian...last run MUCH better.

But...2X I got rear body tucked and lost a bunch of time. ...now I see what the rear bumpers are going on for. I dont remember having this issue with the TC5 so I'm not sure if this is a widespread issue or not.

I'm going to draft up some rear bumpers, and if I can get them lighter then carbon tower mods, then I'll build a bunch. I'm not throwing away 20 seconds a race to rear tucks again.
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Old 06-13-2011 | 02:35 PM
  #2914  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
But...2X I got rear body tucked and lost a bunch of time. ...now I see what the rear bumpers are going on for. I dont remember having this issue with the TC5 so I'm not sure if this is a widespread issue or not.

I'm going to draft up some rear bumpers, and if I can get them lighter then carbon tower mods, then I'll build a bunch. I'm not throwing away 20 seconds a race to rear tucks again.
It is an issue. I lost three A-Final-run top three positions because the guys behind/lapped couldn't stay away from my rear body...
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Old 06-13-2011 | 02:37 PM
  #2915  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Post it up we would like to see it!!
k, let me find an updateable PDF.
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Old 06-13-2011 | 03:05 PM
  #2916  
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Default Dial-A-Grips

Originally Posted by bshookup
Yep, TC6's with Dial-A-Grips 1st and 2nd, and JayBee your car won the concourse hands down. Your car is an aesthetic masterpiece!
Nice work Verndog, they look nice!
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Old 06-14-2011 | 04:46 AM
  #2917  
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Anyone wanting an easy "rear bumper" the top piece from the front bumper works good upside down mounted on the back with the 3 posts cut off...

I have one on mine with an LTC-R and it sits flush to the body just above the edge...
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Old 06-14-2011 | 05:00 AM
  #2918  
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Originally Posted by AM03GT
Anyone wanting an easy "rear bumper" the top piece from the front bumper works good upside down mounted on the back with the 3 posts cut off...

I have one on mine with an LTC-R and it sits flush to the body just above the edge...
Photo please...
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Old 06-14-2011 | 05:12 AM
  #2919  
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Originally Posted by slakr
Photo please...
I'll try to remember to post one when I get home from work tonight...
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Old 06-14-2011 | 09:15 AM
  #2920  
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Originally Posted by AM03GT
Anyone wanting an easy "rear bumper" the top piece from the front bumper works good upside down mounted on the back with the 3 posts cut off...

I have one on mine with an LTC-R and it sits flush to the body just above the edge...
Looking at the parts list I see how that may work pretty decent, direct bolt on with correct hole spacing...good idea! How about side corner impact say at 45 degs or so when someone charges the corner into you, does the bracket reach far enough to the side to help stop a body tuck on an angled hit like that?? BTW...it's the lower part in pic he's using.


Last edited by Verndog; 06-14-2011 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 06-14-2011 | 11:17 AM
  #2921  
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I used an old tc5 rear shock tower but you could also use a brp tc3 lower bumper guard and cut it to fit
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Old 06-14-2011 | 11:48 AM
  #2922  
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Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3


Just cut off the lower screw hole mount and sand to fit. Took about 5 min.
Rear shock tower bumper from an earlier post.
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Old 06-14-2011 | 12:09 PM
  #2923  
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Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3
Rear shock tower bumper from an earlier post.
Thanks for digging that pic up. One of my concerns is taking a corner hit at an angle, and that doesn't look to protect from that at all...I could be wrong, but dont see how. When I'm getting stuck in the rear, it's corner entry to mid turn when things bottle up and you slow for traffic and the guy behind doesn't...I get tucked and he drives away. Nice dent / mark on my L rear corner at 45 degs. showing the exact point of contact.
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Old 06-14-2011 | 03:30 PM
  #2924  
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Default PPD Dial A Grips

Just got my Dial a Grips.... Look awesome and fit perfect.

One question though. Are you guys using thread lock on the grub screws???

Or is there no need?
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Old 06-14-2011 | 04:39 PM
  #2925  
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Originally Posted by Lionel S
Just got my Dial a Grips.... Look awesome and fit perfect.

One question though. Are you guys using thread lock on the grub screws???

Or is there no need?
There really is no need, I thread lock them to "factory" block setting with a gage for anyone preferring to leave them there only. It's best to use a feeler gage between block and chassis to set when you adjust them (to get perfect), then use the top set screw to add just a touch of tension after locking down main screw to prevent it from being able to back out.
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