Thanks Billy, I need to get my shell painted. Im running the stock length wiring in my MMM and it fits all the way into the far side of the box. I wouldnt say there is extra, it just fits though.

Thank you.

If you are going to use it over the bridge you can put some shrinkwrapping around it to get rid of the "ugly" wires But you might have to take the wires out of the connector to get the wrap on, which i used 4 mm for in diameter. This won't fit over the connector so that is why i did this.

I've been using something like this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Extention with my MMM. The wires on my two ESCs reach, but they are a bit tighter than I like and with a hard chassis flex I don't like it pulling too tight. I did pull a set loose from the ESC side once..

I think for the first time in a decade Im going to have to actually buy some shrink wrap. Im used to working on the flightline on Jets and being knee deep in it. I checked my stash, nothing useful. How did this happen!

The plug from my Tekin barely made it into the receiver box. So I'm using a 4" entension

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSGL2

I have the plug from the extension so my ESC velcro'd to the top of the bridge. That way its easy to update or make changes to the Tekin firmware.

Lol! Same here yesterday. I am going to move to a new adress soon, and some of my stuff is already located there. And of course the shrinkwraps!! Found some small stubs in a drawer here, but that was all. Had to wrap it in electrical tape from the ESC to where it comes out under the battery tray to get the job done

This is a complete travesty!

Would the Factory Team Ti turnbuckle set for the RC8B/RC8e be the same kit that we'd use on the RC8Be? I noticed that AE's site only lists one Ti turnbuckle and not the set.

I'd also assume that Ti hinge pins for the RC8B would fit the RB8Be, correct?

Yup, all the geometry /parts are the same between the two. The only difference between the nitro buggy and the e buggy are the radio tray, battery tray, etc so you can use any normal B hop-up parts.

I'm running the AE FT aluminum rear hubs, but if I weren't I'd use the M2C hubs with the larger outer hinge pins for the back.

That's a good idea, I'll have to give that a go.

Guys, thinking about getting one of these, I always wanted a 8th scale but hate nitro.

What batteries do you run 3s, 4s, more? I plan on doing some racing. I have two 2s 5000 packs - can I wire them together to make a 4s?

Thanks for the help.

Generally I run 4s with an 1800kv or 2200kv motor depending on the track, etc.. if you were to be running on something tight indoor you could run 2200 with 3s to tame it down. Running on 8th scale sized tracks most everyone is running 4s.

Yes, you can wire up 2 x 2s packs and run them that way, there is a thread somewhere in the electric section that talks about wiring up the connector, a lot of the guys running the MP9e and most all of the Caster are doing just that with 2s packs.

i used a jr servo extention with plugs.i used a six inch,it is a bit longer than needed,a 4 inch would be perfect.3 inch would work as well, but i like to have slack in my wiring.the tekin esc plug just came to the rx box so i couldnt tuck it in the box.but it looks good and is not exposed at all.

my center diff doesnt seep anymore after doing the sanding tip. i love when things i read on hear help.thx guys for the tip.

I sanded my center diff last night after taking it apart from it acting funny. I was outside driving it, 4S and I tapped the curb sideways. I mean the car was crawling and it knocked something out of alignment and the car would barely move. The MMM 2200 is very coggy but it seemed like after that it would barely move. There was nothing stuck or anything. I took the center diff out and turned it and it sounded like one of the gears came off the "T" shaft. I took it apart and it looked fine. I think when I took the bottom sun gear out it wasnt seated all the way because the pin was all the way to one side. But if its shimmed right, it should never do that. So I put it back together and it seems fine. I hope this isnt the beginning of the buggy giving me a hard time.

Also, what chargers are you guys running? Im looking to order a good one by this weekend. Im trying to keep myself from dropping the hammer on the Maxamps Lipos. But Im not winning the battle. 150C 6500MAH pretty much has me sold.

ive heard the 150c rating is the burst rating not continuous.

ive been using hyperion chargers for years and have had zero problems with them. also recently switched to thunder power packs and love them. ive had problems with turnigy and max amps packs...