Like most of the major sub assemblies that are unique to the TC6, they're probably not available yet.

Might look into a set of TRF shocks, seems to be the popular replacement.

What Xray wheel hexes are you using to get the cvs's to work???

Spent some time over the holidays and wrote a gearing app for Android... which I just finished adding to the Android Market.

The reason I am posting it here is because it comes with
internal ratio=2.0 and a 48 pitch 87 tooth spur; and the gearing chart currently shows gearing that works in a TC6 for 48 and 64 pitch.

Big difference over gearing apps are:
* you to quickly skip throw spur/pinions using the volume buttons...
* you can calculate the pinion (using the set spur and tire diameter) from a given Rollout or FDR
* you can see the speed your boost start/end at before and after gearing changes which allowing you to correct the range (useful for Tekin RS and other boosted ESCs allowing RPM configuration)
* you can stop guessing which spur to switch to with the gear chart you can see which spur gives you the ratios with your pinions
* you can forget your settings because TwitchRC remembers them for you.

It currently assumes you only have one car, a TC6 but it will have multi car support soon (and you get free upgrades).

The homepage for TwitchRC is here:
http://bernie.dcbl.ca/wiki/wiki.php?...c&cscid=35&r=1

RC Tech thread for feedback and updates:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...c-android.html

sent you a pm

my kit is missing a few screws and screws that are supposed to mount the spur gear according to instructions are way too big to fit,

instructions are confusing on the cam-holder step I cant figure out how they are supposed to be aligned. Is there a picture somewhere that helps to explain this?

There should be a supplement sheet the spur gear screws for the bulkhead are 2.5x8mm.
hope it helps
warren

My kit is in the mail, and I'm contemplating gear ratios to run stock, and I see that the new spur gear has some larger holes in it than the legacy Kimbrough solid wheel gears. I'm sure that this has been answered, but I can't seem to find it: Will standard Robinson 48 and 64 pitch spur gears work? Any issues in getting to the motor mount screws? When will the TC6 specific 48p spur gears be available?

My new TC6 has a major chassis tweak problem that I can't figure out. The rear right corner is a good 2 mm higher than the rest of the chassis. I've loosened and tightened everything on the chassis and nothing has helped. I also replaced the ridiculously tight ball ends that no amount of squeezing would loosen up. Has anyone else had this tweak problem? What should I do now? A complete rebuild? It's not possible for a chunk of carbon fibre to have a permanent bend in it, is it?

Happy New Year to ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

is the plate flat with nothing attached to it ?

its possible the shock towers are casuing the tweek if they are mis mounted too.

Ed

I've removed the shock towers and it's still tweaked. My last step is to remove everything and check if it's still tweaked. Not looking forward to it.

Is the L brace at the front on the motor mount lined up as i have seen this incorrect on a few chassis including mine which caused tweak, you need to either file the brace or shim the motor mount at the rear to line the brace up if it is out of line.

The ball ends freed up on my car after a few runs and pivot correctly, i also squeezed them before running the car.
HTH

Yes I've made sure the motor mount is lined up correctly, as I read that was a problem earlier in this thread. And all my ball ends have been replaced with RPM ones that move freely. I'll have to strip the plate I guess and see how it looks. I wonder if AE will send just a chassis plate as a warranty replacement.

Can someone tell me if the steering turnbuckle mounts to the top or bottom of the knuckle? If to the bottom should I swap L & R? thanks

I figured out my tweak problem. Is was the motor mount brace - I realized when I tightened the screw holding it to the chassis it sucked the whole assembly down too much creating the tweak. Solved by putting a 1mm washer between the brace and the chassis.