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Old 12-28-2010, 10:01 PM
  #1231  
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I did something similar on my TC5.. I stuck a piece of servo tape down where I needed it and that seemed to do the trick.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:10 PM
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Walters battery holding solution should work fine...A few posts back...

Another one that is working for me is a 3" piece of "scotch 3m permanent double sided tape" on the chassis. The roll is on a standard scotch tape dispensor. Yellow color package and can be found at any office supply store. It is super thin and can be used over and over again.

This along with good strapping tape or velcro straps and your good to go.

Last edited by Maybell; 12-28-2010 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by hnasdad View Post
Just wondering, how come you dont just use velcro on the battery and chassis to hold the battery on? Too heavy? dirty? not enough to hold in a crash? A couple 4" pieces of velcro would certianly give you plenty of adjustment?
The Velcro only will not hold up on some high speed crashes,a properly strapped battery is the way to go.Another thing is once you add Velcro it also increases the battery height about 2-3mm.Personally I would not take the chance with a 120 dollar lipo flopping around on a piece of Velcro..and I know at our local track and I believe ROAR rules state the battery must be strapped
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:44 AM
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I figured someone has tried it or, had it fail. I know where you race, Velcro is not Gary Proof....haha.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
He did a great job and we want to keep it up to date with constant improvements. if anyone has any option parts suggestions, please let me know.
Afew options i would like to see.
Gear Diff , straight fit with no modifications needed
Various flex top decks, especially for low grip asphalt.(The oring & washer trick is never consistant and only short term fix)
Possibly chassis variations for asphalt low grip.See Yokomo BD5 swiss cheese type.(Possibly not needed with more top deck variations???)
LCD or some type of double jointed CVD for less front wheel chatter.
Rear hubs with std 5 x 10mm type bearings with less slop.
More inner link variations , still long link as per std but with lower pick up point(possibly an alloy bridge needed)So the lower arm roll centre hole can be used with a long link position.

Just a couple of ideas
Any thoughts??
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DAZC View Post
Afew options i would like to see.
Gear Diff , straight fit with no modifications needed
Various flex top decks, especially for low grip asphalt.(The oring & washer trick is never consistant and only short term fix)
Possibly chassis variations for asphalt low grip.See Yokomo BD5 swiss cheese type.(Possibly not needed with more top deck variations???)
LCD or some type of double jointed CVD for less front wheel chatter.
Rear hubs with std 5 x 10mm type bearings with less slop.
More inner link variations , still long link as per std but with lower pick up point(possibly an alloy bridge needed)So the lower arm roll centre hole can be used with a long link position.

Just a couple of ideas
Any thoughts??
+1

red = should have been done with the TC5
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Old 12-29-2010, 03:03 AM
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Asmazure, with my velcro mounting method, the velcro doesn't go under the battery. It only goes over the top of the battery.
Mugenize1 i am having trouble posting pictures. Jhocy's looks similar except there would be a plastic loop in the middle of the battery and the other part of the velcro strap feeds through it and is pulled back in the opposite direction. Just like a watch band.It doesn't go under the battery.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DAZC View Post
Afew options i would like to see.
Gear Diff , straight fit with no modifications needed
Various flex top decks, especially for low grip asphalt.(The oring & washer trick is never consistant and only short term fix)
Possibly chassis variations for asphalt low grip.See Yokomo BD5 swiss cheese type.(Possibly not needed with more top deck variations???)
LCD or some type of double jointed CVD for less front wheel chatter.
Rear hubs with std 5 x 10mm type bearings with less slop.
More inner link variations , still long link as per std but with lower pick up point(possibly an alloy bridge needed)So the lower arm roll centre hole can be used with a long link position.

Just a couple of ideas
Any thoughts??
If you have to set your steering throw that far your set up is not good i have a shim glued to my steering blocks and i dont even hit them at full lock to lock if you need a lcd type try the new litemodz cvs they have them figured out now with no issues.
hope this helps
warren
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
If you have to set your steering throw that far your set up is not good i have a shim glued to my steering blocks and i dont even hit them at full lock to lock if you need a lcd type try the new litemodz cvs they have them figured out now with no issues.
hope this helps
warren

Have you tried the litemodz cvs driveshafts? Do they eliminate the chatter when turning?
I would'nt mind getting a pair for the front end but they are very expensive.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
If you have to set your steering throw that far your set up is not good i have a shim glued to my steering blocks and i dont even hit them at full lock to lock if you need a lcd type try the new litemodz cvs they have them figured out now with no issues.
hope this helps
warren
+1

If you need the maximum throw of your servo and go lock to lock to get the car to steer you should look into tuning the chassis so you can limit the throw. Full lock will chatter but you are also scrubbing speed and wearing tires...
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Handbrake View Post
Asmazure, with my velcro mounting method, the velcro doesn't go under the battery. It only goes over the top of the battery.
Mugenize1 i am having trouble posting pictures. Jhocy's looks similar except there would be a plastic loop in the middle of the battery and the other part of the velcro strap feeds through it and is pulled back in the opposite direction. Just like a watch band.It doesn't go under the battery.
Yes, I have seen that type of strap they seem to work great!
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:47 PM
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Man I can't wait to start to build my car. But at the time I am in bed with a broken right leg and right hand with pins in them both for I got hit by a driver over the Thanksgiving weekend so all I can do is read what you guys are writing about the car
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by asmazure View Post
Yes, I have seen that type of strap they seem to work great!
doesn't that tweak the chassis when a battery is strapped in?
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
doesn't that tweak the chassis when a battery is strapped in?
most likely,I said that they looked great not that I would ever use one!
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Old 12-29-2010, 03:39 PM
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It can tweak if you pull the strap too tightly,i go as tight as you would your watch band.
Mugenizei, hope you recover well. When you are fit, you will be able to put your new car togeather with your eyes closed!
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