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Old 12-09-2010 | 02:53 PM
  #13096  
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hey chris?...where do you run at?....i might end up out there this year and would love to be able to race my truck while im out there....are you on the tip of colorado or in the middle?...
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Old 12-09-2010 | 03:15 PM
  #13097  
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Originally Posted by Ruune
what's your clearance between the top of the piston and the edge of the combustion chamber?
unfortunately that data was lost when my last computer crashed... I have not done a Go since then so I have not re-measured.....
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Old 12-09-2010 | 03:16 PM
  #13098  
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
just to make sure we are on the same picture here....the squish band is what goes inside the sleeve right?....just wondering....i hate typing cause it ALWAYS sounds RUDE....just having a FRIENDLY convo...right neal?
Yes we are.... no worries here
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Old 12-09-2010 | 03:48 PM
  #13099  
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Stock shimming with 40% Nitro is a very good baseline set-up, this will help make more power and broaden the tuning window. It won't be the same power like running under 4000ft, but it will help the tuning.

If you want to test you can also dial some more power in using the set-up below (which is a 30% Nitro set-up at normal conditions), just make sure you read the glow plugs, any signs of pitting on the plug coil, raise the head back up to stock settings and use 40% Nitro. Use a 10x eye loupe when inspection the plugs, you will learn a lot when doing this...

30% Nitro
Sea Level - 4500ft
Mild Humidity
Only 0.012" (0.3mm) shims installed, giving a NET Clearance of 0.022"- 0.024" ( 0.55mm - 0.6mm)
OS P4 or P5 Plug
GO 0801
8mm Carb Insert
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Old 12-09-2010 | 04:22 PM
  #13100  
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If anybody has a question please email me at [email protected] I have been running them for almost two years with no issues and will be glad to help anybody I can.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 05:02 PM
  #13101  
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Thanks Ed and Matt- Much appreciated.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 06:01 PM
  #13102  
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
hey chris?...where do you run at?....i might end up out there this year and would love to be able to race my truck while im out there....are you on the tip of colorado or in the middle?...

I am in northern Colorado, a little over an hour from Cheyenne. This time of year we only race flashlights at an indoor offroad track. Come spring we will race at several gas tracks. One is in the town I live in (Longmont) We also have Rat raceway in downtown Denver, and then a little further away is the track in Colorado Springs as well as the track in Burlington which is way out east... almost in Kansas. As far as racing in Wyoming I generally only go up there once or twice a year because we have so many races goin on at different tracks around here.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:12 PM
  #13103  
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Thanks to the guys that were trying to be helpful! All I wanted was an answer from someone that has experienced the conditions.

To the guys that wanted to treat me like it is my first day Come try racing up here some time since all it takes is knowing how to tune, I could use a laugh.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:15 PM
  #13104  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
yes there were a TON of people having issues you would not expect to have issues. Were you here for Nationals? Were you able to get good power out of your engine? If so what did you do?
Chris sorry for the late reply. I was not at that race but I have had in depth conversations about it with those who were. Pretty much all of the guys I talked to reduced their head shims slightly and ran 40% or left their shimming stock and ran 50%. Make sure you are running either 8.5 or 9 for insert. This should put you into the good power range without having to overlean the engine and reduce its life. The guys at that race were going lean on the needles trying to get pro power so to speak and thus flame outs were everywhere. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:35 PM
  #13105  
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Originally Posted by matrixmike28
Chris sorry for the late reply. I was not at that race but I have had in depth conversations about it with those who were. Pretty much all of the guys I talked to reduced their head shims slightly and ran 40% or left their shimming stock and ran 50%. Make sure you are running either 8.5 or 9 for insert. This should put you into the good power range without having to overlean the engine and reduce its life. The guys at that race were going lean on the needles trying to get pro power so to speak and thus flame outs were everywhere. Hope that helps.
Unless they changed the carb anything over 8mm is counterproductive, because without any insert it's only 8mm. I agree with the high elevation you should run the largest insert the carb allows.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:55 PM
  #13106  
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Originally Posted by matrixmike28
Chris sorry for the late reply. I was not at that race but I have had in depth conversations about it with those who were. Pretty much all of the guys I talked to reduced their head shims slightly and ran 40% or left their shimming stock and ran 50%. Make sure you are running either 8.5 or 9 for insert. This should put you into the good power range without having to overlean the engine and reduce its life. The guys at that race were going lean on the needles trying to get pro power so to speak and thus flame outs were everywhere. Hope that helps.

Thanks Mike,

Just for clarification I race at these altitudes all the time, I have run RB, Novarossi, TecnoPower, and helped many of OS owners. I ran the nationals at that track with zero flame-outs all week, and had no problems making power. All the engines I have run and have direct experience with respond in different ways to different changes up here. My RB's respond best to an extra .10 head shim added and 50% nitro. Nova seemed to respond best to removing a thin shim and sticking with 30% and med plug. TecnoPower seemed to like stock shims with 40% and #6 plug the most. The VZB OS engines don't like having shims removed as much as they liked to have nitro increased in my experiences up here.

These are the kind of answers I was looking for that relate directly to a GO engine. I know what to do at altitude as this is where I race and my stuff runs just fine. I was hoping for a straight up answer because I would want to know what to suggest to people if I recommend they get a GO engine as an engine for next season. If GO's respond best to pulling headshims I would like to know because for a new person I would generally offer to do it for them or show them how.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:56 PM
  #13107  
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OH Sorry Ed. You are a hundred percent correct if talking about GO, I was going off reports from several people and one of them was an OS driver I believe those may have been from his input.

If you say it is counter productive to go over 8 then I would certainly take that into account.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 08:05 PM
  #13108  
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It will be trial and error Chris because as I am sure you are all to aware the mildest of changes in temp and humidity have such a profound effect at that elevation. I personally would go mild and just reduce the shimming to only the aluminum shim with 30% if you are doing this for people new to nitro. That will give them usable power without sacrificing the life of the motor. That wont make it crazy but if they are new they dont need that anyway.
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Old 12-09-2010 | 08:46 PM
  #13109  
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Like Neal said earlier, the Go engines come with lower compression than some other motors. To get a similar compression height as a Nova you would need to take out over .2 in shims from the factory shimming. If you normally take shims out of a Nova then you could even take more out. Depends on fuel used and quite a few factors though.

Rex
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Old 12-11-2010 | 03:12 PM
  #13110  
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anyone know why massive mods no longer has paypal.
And also, has anyone found there shipping time has slowed and you have to chase them to see how things are going. Has there been some changes there
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