well i was running a hyper tt with the 6.5 and im used to run 8th scale nitro truggy and just recently got into 10th scale. i might just go ahead and get a 10.5 and just learn how to control the power unless it's suggested that i go alittle slower at first to learn the car

I know this sounds crazy,but does anyone know if you can put a gear diff in the NEW T4-1? Thanks,

Up to you, most of the time no matter if it's a 10.5 or a 6.5 it's more motor than you can use anyway. From your post and sig. I'll say 2wd mod buggy is simply the hardest class to drive, it's all about being smooth and throttle control. Way harder than than any 4wd but trying to control all that power is what makes it fun IMO..

I would think you could, might need different out drive bearings but not sure. Those would be the only change needed if at all.

so basically stay within the 13.5 and 17.5 range till i get smooth then? im just really used to 4wd so this is a big change for me

if you get a 13.5 with a little timing it will still be fast bc a b4 is so small you can start with no tming and when you feel it is time to bump it up go to half timing and full boost

Well I emailed Matt Murphy(murffdog motors) and LRP support and they both recommend 8.5 for Mod 2wd buggy and truck and 17.5 for stock.. I think it depends on what type of vehicle your putting it in? Im still trying to decide myself..

I'm running a Tekin 8.5 everywhere I go now. Between EPA, Timing settings, and gearing, I can set it up for long 37 second 1/8th scale tracks and tight 13 second indoor tracks.

well im running the sxx comp v1 for right now till i can get the v2. is 10.5 considered mod? im thinking i should just do 13.5 since 17.5 seems like it would be to slow

You've run "fast" stuff before. a 17.5 IMO would be slow for you, a 10.5 or 13.5 with a boost esc, which I believe you LRP is (I don't run blue so I'm not sure) would give you plenty of options as fasr as tuning. There is a huge difference between a 10.5/13.5 and the 6.5 that you have. Either way IMO your looking at buying a new motor. IMO.
10.5 run less boost/timing if any, 13.5 run a little more and it will still be plenty. Or you can put your big boy pants on, through in that 6.5 and hang on....although I only run a 7.5 in my wheeler

lol i keep debating if i should throw it in to see what happens but dont want to go crazy my first time out with it lol. i think i might get the ballistic 13.5 and get the 10.5 stator so i have both

I am doing the same thing as you. I have been driving 4wd buggy for the last three years. This is a totally different deal. I am starting out in stock 17.5 buggy and I feel it is more than enough for starting out. I have the tekin 17.5/rs combo and with the boost it is close to mod speeds. If I was running mod and had a boosting type esc I would run a 13.5. I am at a small indoor track. I don't use any drag brake in 4wd but its useful in 2wd. The biggest change is entering and braking in corners. You almost do the opposite of what you do in 4wd.

The B4.1 and T4.1 both use the newer metric diff outdrive bearings, so a SC10 gear diff would drop right in.

Also, has anyone noticed that the plastic AE is using for the B4.1 wears out really fast? My car is a month or so old, has only been run indoors, and already the steering rack has a good bit of slop in it, and the front and rear A arms are have a lot of front/rear slop on the inner hinge pins. I really hope this car doesn't need to be rebuilt every month.

need some help with setup

my set up is this MMP/13.5ballistic

FT b4.1

MMP/13.5ballistic
-1camber all around
30 degree castor's
.5hubs 2.5 toe block /2.5 anti-squat
brown front/ green Rear springs, 30wt all # 2pistons all
geared 28/75
18degree timing on ESC from 6000-50000
Groovy/double-dee's
loose ball diff
medium wheelbase

everything else is FT set-up

the problem is i need to drop 1 more second off my lap times. or id be happy with .5 sec. I'm just as fast as the quicker guys down the straight and through the jumps. so i'm thinking my corner speed needs to be more.. anyone see anything wrong with my set-up? go to 0 hubs? more/less timing? i'm temping at 110 on motor/esc

indoor clay


whats everyone running for Castor blocks? 25 or 30? also what rear hubs? and toe block?