Does the RC8B body work on the RC8Be? Is there enough clearance for the batteries, motor, esc, etc? I have an extra new RC8B body.

Thanks,

Yeah the RC8b bodies work. Battery clearance all depends on your choice of battery though...Most normal 4s and 5s batteries will fit without any issue. The motor and and esc aren't a problem for clearance, that I've ever seen at least.

Length:
without foam pad: 143mm
with foam pad: 138mm

Width:
without foam pad: 52.5mm
with foam pad: 42mm

Height:
without foam pad: 20mm
with foam pad: 17mm

I have the 1800kv 1512 castle/neu coming. What gearing and how many cells do you guys recommend?

Same motor I've got. I'm using a 20t outside on a fairly large (missouri state championship finals) european-style track. It works GREAT. Temps after a 10 minute main are up to 180 on the motor, 120 on the ESC (MMM), and about 92 on the batts. Ambient temps about 72.

To go inside I'd recommend an 18-19t and keeping a CLOSE eye on temps. So far I've never temp'd above 180 and I have a very twitchy throttle style (ala nitro guys who stab the throttle). I am not by any stretch of the imagination FAST yet either though. So take it for what it's worth (nothing more than you paid to read it)!

Agreed all the way around on 4s.

I don't have a twitchy throttle finger and generally don't hammer on the brakes, etc and on outdoor tracks on 85+ degree days I was running around 150 motor, 120 ESC, 95ish on the batteries; and thats with no air vents cut in the body, and no crazy esc settings.

Yeah sorry about that...I'm also running on 4S. Didn't evidently read your WHOLE question. Getting old sucks! lol

I just put my new RC8Be kit together this past weekend, but didn't get a chance to run it yet. Received the kit on Friday afternoon at 4 pm and pulled an all-nighter to finish up everything which included kit build, tire gluing, electronics install, configure & test, and finished with painting the body at 4am. Hey, when you have a 1 year old kid, the only free time is when he's sleeping .

I went with the Tekin RX8/1900kv combo, and an Orion 4S 40C 5100 mAh hard case Lipo. Based on some research here, I went with a 19 tooth pinion to start.

This is my first electric 1/8 scale buggy and I was a bit surprised to see a plastic spur gear. Is there a good reason the kit doesn't use a metal spur gear like it's nitro cousin?

I also own an RC8B nitro so I should have plenty of spare parts on hand. Are there any parts specific to the electric version that I should have on hand as spares?

there aren't places for adequate ventilation with the nitro body though IMHO.
the e version have places to cut out for airflow

looks great but you wing looks too far back. what is the gap between from of wing and rear shock tower?
23mm should be good

In my experience grab a wing mount kit right away. Mine hasn't broken yet but my buddy PanicRev broke his first time outdoors. The kits we got came with plastic stand-offs and the replacement kit comes with machined aluminum ones. Not sure why the FACTORY TEAM kit didn't come with the aluminum parts.

Also a spare set of dog bones is a must. Some folks are seeing these bend (myself included) due to a flaw in the outdrives on the front and rear diffs. To fix this problem take a dremel and remove about 2-3mm off the inside of the slots in the outdrives.

Also a set of extra set-screws is a must along with (I'd say) any of the screws that go into the bottom of the chassis.

That's all that I can think of right now.

DOH...I should read more carefully. I don't think that ANY of those parts are specific to the electric. So...NEVERMIND! lol

Depends on your hardware I guess. With my motor and gearing I don't need any extra ventilation. So it wouldn't be an issue...

I never thought about the wing positioning to tell you the truth. I just used the kit set-up and that's where they have it located. Thanks for the tip, I'll make the adjustment tonight.

Hmm, I've been running my Nitro RC8B outdoors and have yet to break a wing mount despite some nasty crashes. I'll probably pick one up just in case and that way I have a spare for either vehicle.

Which dog bones are having problems, the center drive line or the dog bones to the hubs/wheels? I've heard the RC8T guys having problems bending their center drive line dogs bones, the front in particular; but I've not had any problems with any of the dog bones on my Nitro version.

Yeah, I have a Tony's screw kit I bought for my RC8B Nitro version. You're right, the screws under the chassis get shaken loose like crazy on this vehicle.

That's actually NOT where they have the wing in the stock set-up. It's an easy mistake to make though. You are using all 4 holes right? You should only be using 2 of them. It FEELS wrong (speaking figuratively of course)...but only the back 2 holes should be used which get matched up to the far front (closest to the rear tower) holes in the wing mount.