Go-Tech Engines Thread
OS do that 
Africa
I found you a brand new gen 4 crank,new unused rod to go with it (actually they might have done 1 tank together but thats it)complete with a wrist pin and I have 2 extra rods with wrist pins with less than 1 gallon on each..No discernible play in any of them..I'll throw them in and you can keep them for emergencies.I think your gen4 7-port with a spare crank and rod + 2 xtra rods should keep you going long enough to get your 100 pounds worth
I'll go to the post office in the morning..Do make sure to follow the instructions to heat the engine really hot hot before starting and running in plus fit the run in shim AND unscrew the glow plug a little..those older engines were really really tight to begin with....otherwise it'll just lock up and chew up your starter box wheel..persevere though cause they are nice engines once they are broken in..

Africa
I found you a brand new gen 4 crank,new unused rod to go with it (actually they might have done 1 tank together but thats it)complete with a wrist pin and I have 2 extra rods with wrist pins with less than 1 gallon on each..No discernible play in any of them..I'll throw them in and you can keep them for emergencies.I think your gen4 7-port with a spare crank and rod + 2 xtra rods should keep you going long enough to get your 100 pounds worth
I'll go to the post office in the morning..Do make sure to follow the instructions to heat the engine really hot hot before starting and running in plus fit the run in shim AND unscrew the glow plug a little..those older engines were really really tight to begin with....otherwise it'll just lock up and chew up your starter box wheel..persevere though cause they are nice engines once they are broken in..
Ahhh - I remember those days. Screw driver prying the fly wheel around, starter box wiring smoking. We are so spoilt these days, sort of takes all the fun out of it - NOT 
Sounds like Gizz has come up with the hell deal Africa. Go for it mate. Like he said, be patient with the run-in and you will have power to burn. If the carb starts wiggling you can drop a new GX carb in there anytime. I would get a full set of the new nitrile O Rings though. The older chocolate coloured O Rings on the needles and the OR-0004 O Ring under the carb suck. They will dry out then perish and flake, so replace them soon.

Sounds like Gizz has come up with the hell deal Africa. Go for it mate. Like he said, be patient with the run-in and you will have power to burn. If the carb starts wiggling you can drop a new GX carb in there anytime. I would get a full set of the new nitrile O Rings though. The older chocolate coloured O Rings on the needles and the OR-0004 O Ring under the carb suck. They will dry out then perish and flake, so replace them soon.
I bet it will last more than 2 gallons, and will have cost a lot less too

Here is a GO motor identification listing I PM'd to someone ages ago - lucky I saved it !
" Gen 4
Plain cooling head with GO and 21 only on it. 5 Port was silver, and 7 Port was orangy gold.
Front of carb body all black. Carb end where the HSN body screws in was plain alloy (uncoated). Carb neck has plastic insert. Older standard RTR 28-0600 type con rod.
Gen 5
Plain cooling head with GO and 21 only on it, just like the Gen 4 and same colours. Front of carb body all black. Main difference externally is the carb end where the HSN body screws in. It is coated black, with just the flat end left alloy.
Internally it is the same except for a new soild carb body (no plastic insert) and the pinch bolt assembly is O Ringed on each end (same as all models from here on). Still has the older RTR 28-0600 type con rod.
Gen 5.5
Cooling heads were same colours, but had more writing on them. "Go Racing" etc, plus a flame design around the GO logo on the rear (exhaust) side of the cooling head. Carb is the same as Gen 5, including the HSN body being black with alloy end, but the 5.5 carb has a red and white sticker on the front of the carb body.
Internally it has the new 5.5 crank. The main thing discernable to the naked eye with the new crank is the groove behind the counter weight area has been removed. There are other small changes to the 5.5 crank that will not be as obvious. It also has the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod, which is distinquished by grooved ends around the bushings.
Gen 5.5 GX Series
Pretty self explanatory with the orange head, coated crank, double O Ring HSN needle etc.
NB: The very first 3 Port R Specs to come out were Gen 5 as above, with a coral red cooling head and a grey crankcase.
The Gen 5.5 3 Ports were the same as the 5 and 7 Ports with a coral red cooling head.
This should be enough to distinquish the motors externally and internally, even if someone has swapped cooling heads etc. "
Hope that's of some help guys.
Last edited by grizz1; 07-07-2010 at 03:27 PM.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
You may have the long needle version, which would explain why someone has tuned it lean on top. Take a look down the carb throat at wide open throttle and see if the low speed needle is clear of the receiver jet or still in the receiver jet. If it's still in you have the long needle carb that requires a slightly different tuning approach than a regular short needle model.
We can help you with that, no problems.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Yep, good little motor. Plenty of bottom end and very smooth.
You may have the long needle version, which would explain why someone has tuned it lean on top. Take a look down the carb throat at wide open throttle and see if the low speed needle is clear of the receiver jet or still in the receiver jet. If it's still in you have the long needle carb that requires a slightly different tuning approach than a regular short needle model.
We can help you with that, no problems.
You may have the long needle version, which would explain why someone has tuned it lean on top. Take a look down the carb throat at wide open throttle and see if the low speed needle is clear of the receiver jet or still in the receiver jet. If it's still in you have the long needle carb that requires a slightly different tuning approach than a regular short needle model.
We can help you with that, no problems.
OK. Not sure on those spring types, but it would probably like a later clutch, especially in a truggy (more of a buggy motor by design). JP pipes don't work especially well on the GO motors. A Dynamite 086 would be nice on that motor, with 1.1 springs and alloy shoes. Enjoy.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
OK. Not sure on those spring types, but it would probably like a later clutch, especially in a truggy (more of a buggy motor by design). JP pipes don't work especially well on the GO motors. A Dynamite 086 would be nice on that motor, with 1.1 springs and alloy shoes. Enjoy.



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