Team Magic E4 Thread
#3346
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 710
From: San Diego, Ca
IMHO, The team Magic springs are the way to go. It's built for that car, and it works well on it too.
#3347
Took a look at the Kfactory K4902 spring set. Are the spring weights the numbers on the tag or is that the wire diameter. If it's the spring weight then the softest springs would only be good for the front.
TC5 springs at 1" or 25.4mm which is quite a bit larger then the TM ones.
Found some Losi JRX-S springs in the basement and they fit but are super short 21mm
Can also get the Tamiya short springs locally do they fit?
TC5 springs at 1" or 25.4mm which is quite a bit larger then the TM ones.
Found some Losi JRX-S springs in the basement and they fit but are super short 21mm
Can also get the Tamiya short springs locally do they fit?
Last edited by Capt'N_Slow; 06-28-2010 at 09:41 PM.
#3350
Took a look at the Kfactory K4902 spring set. Are the spring weights the numbers on the tag or is that the wire diameter. If it's the spring weight then the softest springs would only be good for the front.
TC5 springs at 1" or 25.4mm which is quite a bit larger then the TM ones.
Found some Losi JRX-S springs in the basement and they fit but are super short 21mm
Can also get the Tamiya short springs locally do they fit?
TC5 springs at 1" or 25.4mm which is quite a bit larger then the TM ones.
Found some Losi JRX-S springs in the basement and they fit but are super short 21mm
Can also get the Tamiya short springs locally do they fit?
#3352
There is only minor differences between the cars. I would use one as a experimental car to test setups and the second as your event driver.
You can easily make both of them the same with only some minor part changes.
You can easily make both of them the same with only some minor part changes.
#3356
- Front bumper holder. (the plastic part that holds onto the foam)
- Front and Rear lightweight upper bulkhead. (its thin and when sanwiched between the alum. bulkhead and graphite shock tower, it becomes the weak link in between)
- Servo savers (I've had two servo savers that have gone bad on me in the last 6 months)
For the JS and Drift
- Front chassis plate (the chassis is modular to limit breakage closest to the point of impact)
- Rear chassis plate (same as front chassis plate)
Other than that, the usual pieces that would break on any other car such as hubs, suspension arms and drive axles. Plus the wear parts which are the belts, bearings, diff rings, diff balls and maybe pulleys.
I want to note that since running 17.5 with timing advance (Tekin v203), damage/breakage from track mishaps and also wear have been more severe due to the speed and force. I'm currently rebuilding my E4 to run in 21.5 non-timing spec because its much easier on the both parts and tires.
#3357
And now that I've corrected the problem with the steering throw I have yet to break another CVD. The car is pretty durable once some of the key parts have been upgraded like the hub carriers and belts.
I would suggest contacting Wolf at wolfhobbies.com as he is the U.S. distributor and will have plenty of feedback regarding breakage statistics not to mention he makes some great upgrades for the E4.
#3359
Outdrives and CV's
Belts front and Rear
And Pulleys
#3360
I played aroudn with my E4RS FS non09
What i ended up liking it better as this:
E4FS buttom Chassis (Thick Carbon Fiber)
E4RS Top Deck (Thin Carbon Fiber)
E4 Dual Link Steering instead of the new Single
Setup Medium Traction Track, this buidl works well for me for an allrounder.
What i ended up liking it better as this:
E4FS buttom Chassis (Thick Carbon Fiber)
E4RS Top Deck (Thin Carbon Fiber)
E4 Dual Link Steering instead of the new Single
Setup Medium Traction Track, this buidl works well for me for an allrounder.




