I use the stock shocks and springs and 500 oil all arround

cheers Roy

The set up for rubber tired carpet:

Purple front spring (20 lb) shock mounted second from the most in at the top, outer hole bottom.

Pink rear spring (17 LB) shock mounted second from the most in at the top, outer hole bottom.

35 wt Associated oil all around.

ah ok I will try this.

and how do I adjust the rebound?

Fill your shocks and wait till all air bubbles are gone..
Move piston half way up,place rubber cap in and let is sink in your shock oil,then screw cap on and foila you got rebound.
The rebound depends on how far you push the pinston in before you close the shocks.

cheers Roy

Are they ever going to fix the drive train on the car. I was racing this past weekend and had a dog bone snap. Didn't hit anything. The belts get worn out really fast to. I changed my belts befor Vegas cuz they were skipping and I come back and they are doing it again. I like the car just kinda over that. I have the De e4 stage 2.

Are you driving a spool up front? and was this indoor or outdoor?
I drive without the front tensioner on my cars and moved the front tensioner to the side to give me more room to play with.
I drive 13.5 or 10. with lipo and haven't got a skipping belt al all.

cheers Roy
Ps also no snapping dogbones either

I ran the stock front and rear belts with no problems. I just made sure I had the belt tension just tight enough that it wouldn't skip. The side belt I went with the HPI belt before I sold the car but it fit great. The guy who bought it from me is using it and said it works great.

I know you can get a few different width belts for the front and rear of the car from Wolf Hobbies. My stock belts seemed very soft and broke in quickly.

You can get this set from Wolf Hobbies

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...ct=6054&group=

At 26 bucks they are a great deal and the case is top notch.

I do have the belt tension not to tight but tight where it shouldnt skip.... I am just kinda upset that this happend almost sold my car for $20 when i paid $549 and have had it less then 6 months


I am running a spool. I am running the k facktory belts. The snapping of the dog bone also happend to my friend ryan. I am running 13.5 lipo.

guys, i'm sorry if this question has been ask before.. what do you guys use for lipo battery weight? need to get my car balance.. thanks for the info:

I do have the belt tension not to tight but tight where it shouldnt skip.... I am just kinda upset that this happend almost sold my car for $20 when i paid $549 and have had it less then 6 months


I am running a spool. I am running the k facktory belts. The snapping of the dog bone also happend to my friend ryan. I am running 13.5 lipo.

Big White I understand. When you pay that much for a car you expect a little more. The E4 is a awesome car and the DE version Wolf is doing is even better. The car is so close to not having any problems but for some reason it has just a bug or two that seems to be a problem.

I miss having mine and wish touring track where closer. If we ever get a track that is less than an hour and gets some decent turnouts I will be getting another E4 because even with the few little issues I just really enjoyed running that car. Not sure why but of all the cars I have had I just like this car the best.

Since the battery sits on the chassis ceterline I think you must be referring to balancing the electronics.

I run some weights under the middle belt to balance things out.

As i said before no skipping of belts here even if i don't use the front belt tensioner.
Some guys driving at our track with a E4 had snapping dogbones and all of them used the solid spool.
I believe the spool is so stiff that it causes to much stress on the dogbones.
I myself drive with a one way or with a diff up front and had no dogbones snap at me at all.
I drive 13.5 with lipo or 10.5 with 5 cell or lipo
I use a bog standard E4RS or the E4FS that is fully loaded with both options for motor and batteries.
Only thing i had so far is one bearing blowing up at me and some small pebbles in the poelies.

cheers Roy

Hi Guys:

Thanks for all the kind words!!! We really do work hard at improving the car and helping its owners. We do want to let everyone know that the DE limited edition cars are coming to the end of the run. We shipped two yesterday and realized that they will all be gone soon. We will not be doing any more as there is very little profit on them and we've done what we can. If anyone is interested in owning one but has been putting it off, now is the time. We do have a layaway program if that helps. Please email us for more info.

The belts on the DE level 2 are very narrow. About .5mm less than the stock belts. They are not going to last as long as the wide belts especially if there is any slippage. We do have a simple way to set the belt tensioners:

Loosen all the belts. Hold the car with the wheels in the air. Set the throttle trim on your transmitter so that you have between 10% and 25% throttle. Slowly tighten the tensioners until you hear a change in the motor pitch (slowing down) back off the adjustment a hair and you're done. Setting the belt tension by deflection (like the fan belt on a car) will most likely result in excessive drag and slow the car down. Dressing the belt with any chemicals like WD-40 will drastically shorten the belt life and require a great deal of tension to compensate for splipage which will really slow the car down. One other problem that occurs with a loose side belt is for the belt to flip over on top of the tensioner in some impacts. Mike (my son) came up with a simple solution: Take a large washer (like a wheel spacer disk) and place it on the outside of the flanged tensioner bearing. Not only does this prevent the belt from moving but you can get them in different colors to match the rest of the car. Speaking of different colors, we sent out a bunch of bulkheads and other aluminum parts to be anodized to match our Wolf Hobbies parts. They look pretty awesome. If anyone is interested please let us know and we will make them available as a kit.

As for the snapping driveshafts this falls into two categories: The first is that if you hit something hard enough it is going to break. Not much we can do there. The second is kind of hard to define. Some people never break a driveshaft. Some people break then on a regular basis. This could be driving style or it could be one other factor. There is a recurring issue with chatter in the front of the E4 at full steering lock. We have spent many days working on this issue and have found one thing different about the E4 from any other chassis. It has more steering angle available than any other car. We checked other kits and found that they limit steering angle to well before the point of chatter in the U-Joint. The E4 has almost 10 degrees more travel. If you are having a problem with breaking driveshats please check your total steering angle and let us know what you find. We would like to hear from you. And yes we are working on a solution.

WYD: If your situation changes and want to get back to the E4 please let us know. We appreciate all your input and will do what we can to set you up.