Team Magic E4 Thread
05-08-2010 | 08:31 PM
#3196
Quick question. I have an E4RS, Tekin RS ESC, Fantom Duo17.5 Motor. IDR is 2.0588. Running a Mazda Speed 6 and R9 body. Run on average, a track that's like 90'x40'. Usually like an 80' straight at the end of a long sweeper. I have access to the Hotwire. What is a recommended Final Drive Ratio for a Semi Novice driver. You know, suck but not as bad as you used to suck. Last 2 races I havent come in last and that's with my old LRP Sphere ESC. 1st time running a Tekin. Also , for such a small, low/medium traction asphalt parking lot track, What is a recommended gear selection for said FDR + or - pinions and spurs. I have a 104 and a 110 64p spur allready to work with.
Now, I have a couple good setups for said track. But not with a Fantom Duo 1 motor. Not the Duo 2. 17.5 When my friend and I went to put the 203?, the latest software on my esc, this is where the idiot part comes in,..... I forgot my sensor cable for my motor and we still setup the base settings and applied those. It would not let us save the advanced settings for like turbo until we saved the basic settings 1st. So we did. Then we did the hotrod part of the settings, timing, turbo, delay. If I remember correctly, we did a delay time of .3, an rpm of 5442/ 20k I believe. Now, we saved the settings, calibrated the radio. I got the cable put once I got my car home and started it up. It started flashing 1,2 and 6,7. Wrong motor type. Okay, So I check to see what it is and it at profile 3. Brushless/F,B,R. Well if it were profile 6(custom settings), why would I not have turbo? Does the ESC need to be redone with the advanced settings now that I put the sensor cable on? I am assuming for some reason it is running brushless uncensored, when it's actually got the sensor cable on and it's not allowing the turbo to kick in. I was running a FDR of 4.26 with my LRP and it was quick. Not fast. Having been told that with the Tekin, you need to gear as if you were running a 13.5 motor. Hence a higher FDR or around 6.0 to start.
Once we finished programming it at work, since we knew I didn't have the sensor cable, we didn't wanna chance giving in a couple fistfulls of throttle. So we just turned it off and when I got home was when I put the cable on and discovered I had no turbo.
Sorry for such a long story but I wanted to give you as much info as I could think of to hopefully give you a better idea of what I did, tried, and failed to accomplish. As well as a possible solution. Thanks for those who read this and any help would be much appreciated. Got 1 week before I get to race my allmost new car, brand new esc with hotrod software. I ran against a few locally and I could be in the lead and by the end of the straight, a tekin guy would just hit turbo and leave me like I was standing still!!!! SO I BOUGHT ONE. Thanks, Vinny
Now, I have a couple good setups for said track. But not with a Fantom Duo 1 motor. Not the Duo 2. 17.5 When my friend and I went to put the 203?, the latest software on my esc, this is where the idiot part comes in,..... I forgot my sensor cable for my motor and we still setup the base settings and applied those. It would not let us save the advanced settings for like turbo until we saved the basic settings 1st. So we did. Then we did the hotrod part of the settings, timing, turbo, delay. If I remember correctly, we did a delay time of .3, an rpm of 5442/ 20k I believe. Now, we saved the settings, calibrated the radio. I got the cable put once I got my car home and started it up. It started flashing 1,2 and 6,7. Wrong motor type. Okay, So I check to see what it is and it at profile 3. Brushless/F,B,R. Well if it were profile 6(custom settings), why would I not have turbo? Does the ESC need to be redone with the advanced settings now that I put the sensor cable on? I am assuming for some reason it is running brushless uncensored, when it's actually got the sensor cable on and it's not allowing the turbo to kick in. I was running a FDR of 4.26 with my LRP and it was quick. Not fast. Having been told that with the Tekin, you need to gear as if you were running a 13.5 motor. Hence a higher FDR or around 6.0 to start.
Once we finished programming it at work, since we knew I didn't have the sensor cable, we didn't wanna chance giving in a couple fistfulls of throttle. So we just turned it off and when I got home was when I put the cable on and discovered I had no turbo.
Sorry for such a long story but I wanted to give you as much info as I could think of to hopefully give you a better idea of what I did, tried, and failed to accomplish. As well as a possible solution. Thanks for those who read this and any help would be much appreciated. Got 1 week before I get to race my allmost new car, brand new esc with hotrod software. I ran against a few locally and I could be in the lead and by the end of the straight, a tekin guy would just hit turbo and leave me like I was standing still!!!! SO I BOUGHT ONE. Thanks, Vinny
The car is designed to have either 1.5deg or 2.5deg inboard toe. Some prefer to have the toe done on the outboard hence at the rear hub/upright. However, the car doesn't offer 0deg toe on the suspension pin holders as an option so you're stuck with a minimum of 1.5deg inboard when you use the 1.5deg outboard hub for a total of 3deg. Really unless you need that much rear toe then go for that, but for most applications the factory 1.5deg & 2.5deg settings are good enough for most set-ups.
05-09-2010 | 12:02 AM
#3197
Thanks YR4Dude,
I could actually use a little more traction in the rear.
Ran this car for the first time last night.
Needs some work, slowly getting the back end planted on our dusty asphalt track.. and finding the sweet Tekin RS setting! Two pains in the ass. Going well though, car transitions really well. Very Fast.
Cheers
Phill
I could actually use a little more traction in the rear.
Ran this car for the first time last night.
Needs some work, slowly getting the back end planted on our dusty asphalt track.. and finding the sweet Tekin RS setting! Two pains in the ass. Going well though, car transitions really well. Very Fast.
Cheers
Phill
05-09-2010 | 12:34 PM
#3198
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 710
From: San Diego, Ca
Thanks YR4Dude,
I could actually use a little more traction in the rear.
Ran this car for the first time last night.
Needs some work, slowly getting the back end planted on our dusty asphalt track.. and finding the sweet Tekin RS setting! Two pains in the ass. Going well though, car transitions really well. Very Fast.
Cheers
Phill
I could actually use a little more traction in the rear.
Ran this car for the first time last night.
Needs some work, slowly getting the back end planted on our dusty asphalt track.. and finding the sweet Tekin RS setting! Two pains in the ass. Going well though, car transitions really well. Very Fast.
Cheers
Phill
Phil, as far as getting the back end planted, I had the exact same problem with mine on low traction asphalt. The best setup I have found was on Petitrc,com . It is setup for Wet conditions at the French Nationals. Use the most latest setup. I have run mine for 3 months with this setup on low/medium traction asphalt and once I did, I haven't had to do anyting else. It is an awesome setup to start with. Enjoy the new car. It handles awesome once you get it dialed. So many people stop and google at how everything is centrally located. Left to right transition is so sweet!
05-09-2010 | 12:45 PM
#3199
Having some problems fitting large square lipos (SMC 5200/5400) into this car is there some tips or tricks to make it easier.
Have installed the 2mm top deck risers and required to grind down the front layshaft holder. The battery does not like to rest nicely into the stock plastic tray.
Does anybody have a suggestion on a better plastic lipo tray for fitment. Is there a part to replace the front layshaft holder that does not require modification as I have grinded mine quite severly.
Have installed the 2mm top deck risers and required to grind down the front layshaft holder. The battery does not like to rest nicely into the stock plastic tray.
Does anybody have a suggestion on a better plastic lipo tray for fitment. Is there a part to replace the front layshaft holder that does not require modification as I have grinded mine quite severly.
05-09-2010 | 06:48 PM
#3200
Having some problems fitting large square lipos (SMC 5200/5400) into this car is there some tips or tricks to make it easier.
Have installed the 2mm top deck risers and required to grind down the front layshaft holder. The battery does not like to rest nicely into the stock plastic tray.
Does anybody have a suggestion on a better plastic lipo tray for fitment. Is there a part to replace the front layshaft holder that does not require modification as I have grinded mine quite severly.
Have installed the 2mm top deck risers and required to grind down the front layshaft holder. The battery does not like to rest nicely into the stock plastic tray.
Does anybody have a suggestion on a better plastic lipo tray for fitment. Is there a part to replace the front layshaft holder that does not require modification as I have grinded mine quite severly.
It stiffens the chassis as well.
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/Wolf_Hobb...tery_Tray.html
05-09-2010 | 07:31 PM
#3201
Thanks YoDog,
Will try it next meet!
Capt'N_Slow,
I ended up removing alot of material from the stock plastic tray... I use the front layshaft mount to stop forward movement (after grinding off the front lip of the tray) and then trimmed the back to suit the lipo. I had a Kfactory centre brace that mounted on the bottom of the upperdeck... I had to replace that with a plastic one that mounted on top to get the clearance with 2mm spacing (did not want to space it any higher).
It seemed like alot of work at the time but its well worth it. Very secure.
Hope this helps...
Will try it next meet!
Capt'N_Slow,
I ended up removing alot of material from the stock plastic tray... I use the front layshaft mount to stop forward movement (after grinding off the front lip of the tray) and then trimmed the back to suit the lipo. I had a Kfactory centre brace that mounted on the bottom of the upperdeck... I had to replace that with a plastic one that mounted on top to get the clearance with 2mm spacing (did not want to space it any higher).
It seemed like alot of work at the time but its well worth it. Very secure.
Hope this helps...
05-09-2010 | 07:55 PM
#3203
I plan to make it from Brass.
Already have the material but need the time to machine. if anyone has access to a CNC mill, I have the 3D models.
05-09-2010 | 08:12 PM
#3205
you know I was thinking about the front wheel vibration issue you wrote about and my E4 does the same thing. There is some weird oscillation that is induced by the universals and having the wheels mounted magnifies the vibration. I tried it with wheels and tires, with just bare wheels, thinking it was a balance issue (it's not) and without any wheels mounted. the problem does not appear to be a mechanical interference but just a vibration that gets worse with something mounted larger than the hub.
This is a real problem as I have noticed that the car sometimes spins out under acceleration and I can hear a distinct "rattle" sound as it starts to loose grip. I think the sound I hear is actually from this vibration and not a belt skipping or the rear diff slipping. If anybody has found a solution to this oscillation, please share your findings. I will do the same.
05-09-2010 | 08:24 PM
#3206
I'm planning on it.
you know I was thinking about the front wheel vibration issue you wrote about and my E4 does the same thing. There is some weird oscillation that is induced by the universals and having the wheels mounted magnifies the vibration. I tried it with wheels and tires, with just bare wheels, thinking it was a balance issue (it's not) and without any wheels mounted. the problem does not appear to be a mechanical interference but just a vibration that gets worse with something mounted larger than the hub.
This is a real problem as I have noticed that the car sometimes spins out under acceleration and I can hear a distinct "rattle" sound as it starts to loose grip. I think the sound I hear is actually from this vibration and not a belt skipping or the rear diff slipping. If anybody has found a solution to this oscillation, please share your findings. I will do the same.
you know I was thinking about the front wheel vibration issue you wrote about and my E4 does the same thing. There is some weird oscillation that is induced by the universals and having the wheels mounted magnifies the vibration. I tried it with wheels and tires, with just bare wheels, thinking it was a balance issue (it's not) and without any wheels mounted. the problem does not appear to be a mechanical interference but just a vibration that gets worse with something mounted larger than the hub.
This is a real problem as I have noticed that the car sometimes spins out under acceleration and I can hear a distinct "rattle" sound as it starts to loose grip. I think the sound I hear is actually from this vibration and not a belt skipping or the rear diff slipping. If anybody has found a solution to this oscillation, please share your findings. I will do the same.
05-09-2010 | 09:28 PM
#3209
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 710
From: San Diego, Ca
I have had my TM springs for about 4 months now and love them. Direct fitment is so nice. No mixmatching of parts to make it work. What surface are you guys running on the Visalia track? It's cool to hear of others in cali using TM cars. Noone down in San Diego even knows what they are when they see one. Just, they can't stop talking about the layout of the chassis. I tell em, then buy one. Alot to be said about having "spare parts" available at the track.
05-09-2010 | 10:49 PM
#3210
I have had my TM springs for about 4 months now and love them. Direct fitment is so nice. No mixmatching of parts to make it work. What surface are you guys running on the Visalia track? It's cool to hear of others in cali using TM cars. Noone down in San Diego even knows what they are when they see one. Just, they can't stop talking about the layout of the chassis. I tell em, then buy one. Alot to be said about having "spare parts" available at the track.
Check out tularecountyrc.com.
We spray a sealed pavement with soda and the traction usually comes up pretty good by the second qualifier.
I run a 2008 E4C1 from Wolf Hobbies in the 13.5 class and kim usually runs open mod.
I have a 2009 E4 that I intend to set up for Mod as well. (when the funds permit)
I TQ'd and won the last race but there are a couple of really fast guys that usually race there and I need to catch up to them to validate my setup.
It get's better each race I attend. I primarily race electric TC to stay fresh for when I run the 1/8th nitro in Santa Clara. I'm starting to really like this electric stuff. It got me to design an electric 1/8th scale.