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Old 05-05-2010 | 08:36 AM
  #691  
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Congrats to all you guys winning races with the JS!! Im loven' mine!!
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Old 05-05-2010 | 03:56 PM
  #692  
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im thinking about getting the stock eb mods js engine , i only have 20% emods fuel i was wondering, if the head is shimmed for 20% to 25% or just 30%. and does this engine include break in inductions etc.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 05:10 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
im thinking about getting the stock eb mods js engine , i only have 20% emods fuel i was wondering, if the head is shimmed for 20% to 25% or just 30%. and does this engine include break in inductions etc.
As far as I know its shimmed 30%. You can always start at 20 and go to 25% if you choose. But your not obligated to use 30%
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Old 05-05-2010 | 05:20 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
im thinking about getting the stock eb mods js engine , i only have 20% emods fuel i was wondering, if the head is shimmed for 20% to 25% or just 30%. and does this engine include break in inductions etc.
the engine comes shimmed for 25% -30% nitro and the head is set as low as it can so you can't run 20% in the EBMods JS. engine includes, 3 Velocity stacks (8mm, 7.5mm, 7mm), as well as factory instructions, and stickers.

TC5man, I see your local, and i'm pretty sure you race at Hobby Hut, we can trade out that 20 for some 30.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 05:48 PM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by JUD
Congrats to all you guys winning races with the JS!! Im loven' mine!!
My full mod is a screamer! Got alot more topend than my speed.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 05:49 PM
  #696  
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Joe, I bought a stock js today. The stock ones are not broke in from Ed right. The instructions say nothing about adjusting the lsn. Should I leave it alone and just mess with the hsn?
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Old 05-05-2010 | 06:35 PM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by jpalessi
the engine comes shimmed for 25% -30% nitro and the head is set as low as it can so you can't run 20% in the EBMods JS. engine includes, 3 Velocity stacks (8mm, 7.5mm, 7mm), as well as factory instructions, and stickers.

TC5man, I see your local, and i'm pretty sure you race at Hobby Hut, we can trade out that 20 for some 30.


yup i do race at hobby hut, every other weekend or so, i know i could use 25% but i have a lot of 20%, left so i dont want that to go to waste.

i know i can take off a shim, so i can run 20% for now although i dont know how it would run though if, i break it in with 20% and than go to 25%.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 06:55 PM
  #698  
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just bought a full mod, was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the first start, these motors are pre-run right? wondering also about temps etc. probably will be in my instructions right lol.. any word on rebuild times how long before bearings rods p/s are needed. thanks for any help...
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Old 05-05-2010 | 06:59 PM
  #699  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
Joe, I bought a stock js today. The stock ones are not broke in from Ed right. The instructions say nothing about adjusting the lsn. Should I leave it alone and just mess with the hsn?
the stock engines are not broken in. the idle comes set from EBMods so you just need to tune the top first, then tune the bottom, after getting the bottom tuned you may have to idle a 1/8 in either direction to get the perfect tune. for example after getting the hsn and lsn tuned you may need to tweak the idle up a 1/8, then after the fit (P&S) loosens up a bit you'll have to lean the bottom and and turn down the idle that 1/8 you went up or maybe even a 1/4 depending on how much you lean the lsn. just never turn more then 1/8 from the ebmods idle setting at 1-1/4 or you'll find your self chasing. hope that helps. lol
Originally Posted by tc5 man
yup i do race at hobby hut, every other weekend or so, i know i could use 25% but i have a lot of 20%, left so i dont want that to go to waste.

i know i can take off a shim, so i can run 20% for now although i dont know how it would run though if, i break it in with 20% and than go to 25%.
i would just run the ebmods 25 if you have some, then next time we're at hh we'll swap out the 20 for you.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro crazy
just bought a full mod, was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the first start, these motors are pre-run right? wondering also about temps etc. probably will be in my instructions right lol.. any word on rebuild times how long before bearings rods p/s are needed. thanks for any help...
if you have a race prepped they come ready to race tune. the engine is cold blooded so it should run 200*-230*.. I dont really temp my engine to often but my friends who pit me sometimes temp and ive seen it come off at 185 and im shocked, thinking its gotta be 230.
as for rebuild i have one that has 7 gallons on it and shows NO signs of fatigue. Peter from tko has about 8+ and his is also still good. I would say 10 is possible.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:04 PM
  #701  
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when u say idle is set at 1 1/4 thats 1 1/4 turns out from bottoming out?
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:13 PM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
when u say idle is set at 1 1/4 thats 1 1/4 turns out from bottoming out?

no, thats from JUST closed. take the velocity stack out, hold the side closed with your left pointer, back the idle out slowly till you see the gap JUST close, then go back in 1-1/4. I even work the idle screw in and out to get it perfectly just closed. in other words be precise.

Last edited by jpalessi; 05-05-2010 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:23 PM
  #703  
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I've got several guys running these engines locally race prep and full mods and they are having great results. Loving the power and the mileage they are getting for the price. I will be talking to you soon Joe about my next order! I'm trying to push the fuel lately as well I have personally switched to it and I love it so far, great stuff!
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:37 PM
  #704  
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so is it ok for now to just take a shim off the head if i get this engine so i can run 20% for now? or just run the 20% i leave it alone? i have a 86 pipe im gone to run this engine in a truggy.
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Old 05-05-2010 | 07:39 PM
  #705  
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Originally Posted by jpalessi
no, thats from JUST closed. take the velocity stack out, hold the side closed with your left pointer, back the idle out slowly till you see the gap JUST close, then go back in 1-1/4. I even work the idle screw in and out to get it perfectly just closed. in other words be precise.
gotcha thanks
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