Drake has the new setup with the V2 tower on the Losi website.

Yes, we have been over this. There is a setup posted but the sheet has not been updated to the V2 tower. There are a couple changes needed on that sheet. Namely the rear shock position on the tower. Rear shock mount should be in hole #4 on the tower. Other than that, that setup is fine.

dude smart diff in the center was all i ran when i 1st got the truck...i thought damn its fast, got it on the track every one was turning better than me..buddy said its the smart diff i took it out and my lap times increased by 2-3 sec on that track...i know now why the pro's hardly ever run it

Does it really matter if it says #4, We all run the outer location on the V2 tower. And for the camberlink its the innerl/lower hole. But the rest of the setup is fine.

Jamminkrazy are you using the new lower hole on the v2 shock tower to mount the camber link (lower hole nearest the shock) or are you using the stock lower camber link hole (lower hole nearest the gearbox)?

im running in the lower outer holes and all the way in on the hub and loving every minute of it

Lower inner(#1). Closest to the gearbox. Same as with the old tower. That is where Drake has been running them too. I think the camber link is plenty short enough with the lower inner(#1) hole and the inner (A) hole on the hub. Going to the lower outer hole and A on the hub may give you a bit more turn-in but will sacrifice some turn-out(even running them where I do will have some of that same effect.) If you find you want even more turn-in and don't mind sacrificing some steering exiting the corner(turn-out), the lower outer/A setup may work. I don't know that you will need anymore turn-in than you will have with the lower inner(#1)/A setup.

what can you do to get back some on power, and run the short links

Has anybody tried the lower outter hole on the tower and B on the hub?

I run the whole setup and all i can say is DIALED.

HUB - hole B
V2 - lower outer (new hole) away from gearbox
Shock - the 4th ,or the top hole...

Yes you need to trim down each end about 3mm. Or you wont be able to set your camber right. And there are some reports of binding also...

Turning in the top and out of turns is dialed, could be a little to much if you are new to this.

I use an extra set of front camber links for the shorter rear setup that way I can switch easily. That's te way I have it setup. I'll test it tomorrow and let you know. I am thinkng it will be perfect.

I have ran the last two race weekends with the B hole on the hub and the new hole for the link on the tower and my truck is MONEY!!!!!!!! I also run on the #4 for the rear shocks. Like stated above I had to cut about 2 threads off both sides of both turnbuckles because if they are left stock the turnbuckle will push to the end of the plastic rod end and bind on the suspension ball when you set the camber to -2. As soon as I cut the links and put on new plastic rod ends there was zero bind at -2.

The one thing I always liked about my truck was the great on power steering I had but it did lack some turn in. I was worried I would lose this with the change but I didn't. Now I feel like I have the best of both worlds because I really do not feel any difference exiting the corners on power. This was on two totally different track surfaces as well so I doubt I will be going back to stock anytime soon. It really makes the truck corner a lot more like my car.

Cant wait to try this..... Do it do anything for rear traction, or is it just steering?

what do you guys do first for setup

1. camber
2. ride height
3. droop

is that the order you are supposed to do it in.

also whats the best ,droop setting for my eight 1.0 t for the front and rear ?

Droop first, followed by ride height, then camber. Camber is always after ride height, and is set at ride height. Your camber setting won't be right if it is not set at ride height.

See the sheet below for the settings.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf