dino, do you know if any one is runing an sts at the winternats other than any crc guys, if so how are the doing

good question I was wondering the samething

As Dino had said before there are a few differences that you must consider when you are putting the motor together. I have tried numerous configurations with the STS piston sleeves and I found that it will work in the MT 12. This thing is like Dino was saying about the crank shaft not working due to the size difference inside the main bearing. The piston sleeve will work fine but you must using the factory crank shaft and condrod. The MT 12 uses a slightly longer conrod, which also reflects on the crank shaft since its timing must match that of the connecting rod. As far as the performance is concerned, I found that the STS piston and sleeve out performed the stock Novarossi one. Also as stated if you want to do this you need to notch the opposite side of the sleeve so that it will fit properly, which can be tricky as well especially when using a hand held device such as a dremel tool. In the RB V-12 3 and 5 port versions this transplant works perfectly infact the people who used the motors said that there was a performance increase when doing this. This kinda goes back to why other than just pure cost would a person want to use STS parts in a Nova or RB, and in my opinion I feel that they are actually better in quality . And more readly available than the stock replacments. In this sport people tend to stick with what they feel comfortable with no matter what they are told. Once they feel the improvment in there own motors most of them can't wait to try out the entire motors to get the full STS effect. STS deffinately has my vote, and "Dino you are the man!!" I had another thought but I wasn't sure if it would work or not, what if you replaced the main bearing in the Nova or RB wi?th the STS main bearing then could you do a full transplant? I was just curious, and even if it would work I think on the MT12 if you were to do this you would have to change the cases back plate to one that is notched so if you going to go that far you should just go all the way and purchase the D3 or D5, which is much faster than the MT12.

I have some rookie questions. I have a NTC3 with a D5 and a RD turbo pipe.

It was recomended to me to run 30% O' Donnel fuel. What are your opinions on this choice and what advantages and disadvantages are there to using different mixes and are there additives that I want to look into using?

Is there and advantages or disadvantages to using the Turbo button over the normal button. And also what plug do you recomend I use?

Also I live in Wisconsin so temperature is going to change alot throughout the season. Is there special considerations I need to take into affect besides diferent tunning to compensate for this?

Thank You.

I got my D5 2 mounths ago. $145Us from rc-mushroom. I got the rod and pin as well, I tryed to do every thing right to keep the engine for as long as possible.

So mush for that!!!

I went racing today and this was the result!!

Check This Out!!

Same place as the previous ones posted, now im worried about my D5

I'll just keep my LD3 geared nice and high I guess

Im not happy at ALL.

Know i got no engine for this weekend.

Hi,

I'm just curious, what does the conrod look like? Do you have a photo of it??

Please let me know the crankpin size and conrod bushing size.

Sorry,I have no idea.

Thank you sir.

O'Donnel fuel works fine. I usual use Byron30%.And I usual use OS P6 Turbo Pulg.About working temperature:

Air temp. 20-30C --- max about 120C (68-86F max 248F)
Air temp. 10-20C --- max about 100C (50-68F max 212F)
Air temp. 0-10C --- max about 80C (32-50F max 176F)

Try to keep enough lubricity to your engine,it will very lasting. As I have said before,a working fine engine can drink all of the fuel in the tank and keep stable temperature;stable idle;never singing. When you feel the engine is not fast enough but working fine,first thing you should think about is ....

1)If the tyres stick?or the track is clean without many sand?or the tyres are too small?
2)If you should change the gear ratio?
3)If the clutch is ok?
4)If the transmission or bearing smooth?
5)The last way is to lean a bit your engine.

How do you want me to give you the Mesurement of the Conrod Bushing. I have a Mike so i can do the CrankPin.

But i got to say the It has alot of movment.



The Conrod Has not really any damage. The TOP END bushing is missing a bit of the side but its all still there.

The crank pin is 4.28mm

And the rod looks about 2 or 3 Thou bigger. when you put it on the Pin and move it around.

Also have a look at the Part that snaped off on the crank its all smooth.

These broken crank pics got me worried