with or without the gap is the same, it's just the angle u are looking at. the restrictor only comes into play after 3/4 throttle approx

I see where your coming from Mathiew. If your trying to set the gap with a drill bit or something, itīs easier to take the restrictor out.

I reckon the easiest way to set the idle gap is the pinch method. You don't even have to take the air cleaner off. Just start it up, run it for a minute on the starter box then set the gap by the pinch off revs. Just be aware you need to do this before the motor gets too hot, as the fuel atomises in the crankcase better in a hotter motor, thus the revs increase faster on a hot motor when you pinch off the fuel line. This can be confusing, so set the idle gap first when the motor is still pretty cool (within a couple of minutes of starting).

OK GRIZZ1, i'll try it.
So he engine must rev slightly and die in about 7 seconds, right?

If the engine rev up to fast and die before 7 seconds, i must close it a little?

Yep - your onto it

The pinch test actually has two purposes.

How much the motor revs up when you pinch off the fuel line - tells you if your idle gap is too big or not.

How long the motor runs for after you pinch the line off - tells you if your LSN is too rich or too lean.
If the motor stops in a couple seconds, you are too lean.
If it stops between 5 and 7 seconds you are pretty close to correct.
If it runs on for longer then 7 seconds you are too rich.

Once again this needs to be done when the motor is not too hot.
Once the motor is up to normal running temps, a 5 - 7 sec pinch time will drop to a 2 - 3 sec pinch time, plus the revs will come up higher as well, due to the crankcase being hot and evapourating / atomising the fuel more effeciently. Which is why you should only fully tune a motor for performance when it is hot, as these are the conditions it will be running under on the track.

Would any of you Go Tech fans like a Pro Twister Mods 3-port Race mill with about 2 gallons on it? It has a ceramic rear bearing installed and was always pre heated before starting and lubed with after run oil after. Was my shelf queen "race" motor that only got used at a few big races.

I have the original box, can take pics upon request. Pm me if you might want it. 80 +shipping

+1

Also the top end only needs to be leaned from flush untill you get nice power, if it loses power when the tank is low you are too lean and have gone too far in on the high needle.

hey flanno have u used the life pack and what did u think

onya flanno, they don't call u the " nitro whisper " for no reason !!

If I look at the time of this post, it looks like you posted a second time here as I was answering your first post on the 6T thread LOL...

bottom line, so far so good, more detail in the 6T thread post.


Thanks Magie

you'v got PM bud.

...specifically the Mynxx theme with integrated virtuemart.

I need some menus and the way the display pages changed for the site that is going to be www.go-engine-usa.com. If you've got experience with these custom versions of Joomla and can manipulate layout, please let me know. I just dont have the time or energy to do it myself, and I'm getting the "man... I havent slept in 3 days" speech from my webmaster.

When the layout is complete, I can publish content, but I'm not happy with the way things display at the moment. I've also got hosting covered, and when the site is done on the test server, I'll just point the DNS entry to the appropriate IP address.

and vise versa- if you alter the Lsn you'll also effect the idle setting due to more or less fuel in the crankcase at idle

Here's a thing i don't understand:
If i pinch the fuel line to test the idle gap, i have to listen to the engine rev up.
But in same time, if the LSN is not set right, HOW can i know if it's the LSN or idle gap who's not set correctly

You say that the engine must rev up slightly and died in about 5-7 sec to be correct with idle gap. But if the LSN is too lean, the idle will goes up too and the engine will stall before 7 secondes, but what tell me that's the LSN who's too lean, or the idle gap who's too wide open???

Oh great guys now instead of him frying his motor he is gonna fry his brain.



Set your idle gap at 1mm as a good starting point. Now do the pinch tests as they have instructed. Use the LSN to make your adjustments based on the pinch test. Once you have the LSN where you want it do a final adjustment on the idle screw so that the engine idle is where you want it. You shouldnt have to adjust it much. I am not a huge fan of the pinch test but if you are new to tuning it is a good general rule of thumb.

Once the engine is heated up give your engine a good blip on the throttle to clear it out then go full brake and hold it. The engine should go back to where you set the idle at within a couple of seconds. It should stay there for 15 or 20 seconds and then drop down to a lower idle because it is loading up with fuel. Once it does that hit the throttle again and see if it clears out. It may take a sec but it should clear. If it chokes and dies you are still slightly rich on the LSN, lean 1 hour adjust your idle (if necessary) and do the test again. Repeat this until it clears after dropping to the low idle. If you did the pinch test right it shouldnt take to much more leaning.

Now put down and run it. It should clear out quickly when you give it throttle and be very responsive. All you have left to do is run it up to full throttle and make sure it is clearing out at the top and there is smoke all the way through the power band. If it is not clearing out on the top adjust the HSN 1 hour and try again until it clears still checking for smoke. Once you are there your engine should be very close to optimal tune.

Once you lean the HSN if it makes the car idle higher than what you set it at then richen the LSN in 1/2 hour increments until it is where you set it at before. Should not take much. Now your engine is at optimal tune.

Run a few laps at race pace and check your temps. I would say anything below 250 is acceptable as long as there is plenty of smoke and the engine still sounds like you set it.

When you are checking the idle gap, the length of time the motor runs on is irrelavant. It's the amount it revs up you are worried about.

If your testing for LSN tune, then the amount of time the motor runs on is relevant (but also if setting the LSN you want the idle gap to be correct too. Because this will effect LSN tune).

Always set the idle gap first.

As matrixmaike 28 pointed out, the pinch test is a good reference tool and gets your settings fairly close. I should have perhaps pointed out that the only way to get things tuned precisly is to do what matrixmike28 described in his post. As you should be tuning for the track conditions you are running. Tuning on the starter box without running the buggy is not going to result in a great tune. So use the pinch test as a reference to get things close, then fine tune from there.
Hope I haven't confused the issue for you

Well need a new crank for the MG66.. tried the 808 yesterdayand noticed a lot of end play in the clutch bell so yanked the motor to re-shim it and I found the end of the crank has worn down some. Not surprising considering how many sets of clutch bearings I destroyed last year.Bummer none the less. Oh well not an expensive fix and I will be starting the season with an almost new engine again.Not to mention a lighter car.Hoping the new Ascendancy racing 4 shoe clutch should balance out the wear on both bells and bearings too this year.