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Old 01-13-2010 | 04:26 PM
  #9751  
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any one know if these c-clips will work in the go tec engines 21 5-7-3 ports?
Novarossi .21 Wrist Pin Clips
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Old 01-13-2010 | 06:44 PM
  #9752  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
any one know if these c-clips will work in the go tec engines 21 5-7-3 ports?
Novarossi .21 Wrist Pin Clips
99% chance they will Matt. We fitted a GO 28-0600 rod to a Nova Torro Nerro the other day, and it's sweet. We give the guy sh-t about his GOverossi now
Wrist pin was the same size on that motor, so I would say the clips should be fine - but don't blame me if it all goes wrong
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Old 01-13-2010 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
99% chance they will Matt. We fitted a GO 28-0600 rod to a Nova Torro Nerro the other day, and it's sweet. We give the guy sh-t about his GOverossi now
Wrist pin was the same size on that motor, so I would say the clips should be fine - but don't blame me if it all goes wrong
especially with the trash talk he says about Go engines
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Old 01-13-2010 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RETRO RC
Nova carbs fit straight in but i'd give the the gen 5.5 carb a go first just read up on the tuning of the Long lsn if it's got 1.

also if your buying a second hand engine make sure you give it a good going over and just for peice of mind I'd replace the bearings and rod to be on the safe side

hpe you like thm as much as the rest of us
Adrian
Ceramic f/r bearings and piston/rod/sleeve, already in the mail
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Old 01-13-2010 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fdjizm
Ceramic f/r bearings and piston/rod/sleeve, already in the mail
nice
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Old 01-14-2010 | 12:34 PM
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Default need go tech r21 3p help

I just picked up a used .21 and when I took the head and the burnroom off there was not a head gasket. When I say head gasket i mean the copper washer that goes between the sleeve and the burnroom. Is this motor supposed to have a head gasket?

also where can i get a exploded view for that motor



Thank you

Greg
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Old 01-14-2010 | 12:49 PM
  #9757  
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Originally Posted by indix100
I just picked up a used .21 and when I took the head and the burnroom off there was not a head gasket. When I say head gasket i mean the copper washer that goes between the sleeve and the burnroom. Is this motor supposed to have a head gasket?

also where can i get a exploded view for that motor



Thank you

Greg
did it have a aluminum head gasket? Might be stuck to head. [silver color]You might try the go-tec web site for a copy of the engine. Or one of the dealers on the thread may be able to email you a copy.
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Old 01-14-2010 | 03:57 PM
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pretty sure that there was not a gasket on the head. I will check with my lhs and i am sure they will be no help.

Thank you
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Old 01-14-2010 | 04:13 PM
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no, you will see it on the head button. Thats usually where they get stuck. You may not have any. Hows the compression? I run 1-.010 and 1-.020 for shims. A go engine broken in properly should still be fairly hard to turn over by hand even after 2 gallons with the fly wheel on. So this should give you some indecation of how much use it has.
also send me an email address so I can send the blow up parts list.
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Old 01-14-2010 | 07:21 PM
  #9760  
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hey guys... I wanted to revisit the conrod debate again, as I just spoke with the factory.

Basically, what the owner of Go Taiwan is saying, is that the new lightened conrod (21-0600) and the older part (28-0600) are interchangeable. Now, I hate to flip flop on issues like this, but that is the word from the factory.

That said, I will be filling all conrod orders with the new GX-series conrod: 21-0600. The old number will be removed from the next price list.
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Old 01-14-2010 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
We fitted a GO 28-0600 rod to a Nova Torro Nerro the other day, and it's sweet. We give the guy sh-t about his GOverossi now
I've got a GOvarossi too

Originally Posted by Ruune
Basically, what the owner of Go Taiwan is saying, is that the new lightened conrod (21-0600) and the older part (28-0600) are interchangeable. Now, I hate to flip flop on issues like this, but that is the word from the factory.
How much lighter is it really? They (GO) could've made the bottom end of the conrod like the ones from Nova for better flow
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Old 01-14-2010 | 08:13 PM
  #9762  
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Originally Posted by Ruune
hey guys... I wanted to revisit the conrod debate again, as I just spoke with the factory.

Basically, what the owner of Go Taiwan is saying, is that the new lightened conrod (21-0600) and the older part (28-0600) are interchangeable. Now, I hate to flip flop on issues like this, but that is the word from the factory.

That said, I will be filling all conrod orders with the new GX-series conrod: 21-0600. The old number will be removed from the next price list.
Good to hear, I knew they were the same size! I did measure a few more last week and the tolerance on the new 21-0600 seems to be better, it is also a stronger rod.

Rex
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Old 01-14-2010 | 08:43 PM
  #9763  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
Good to hear, I knew they were the same size! I did measure a few more last week and the tolerance on the new 21-0600 seems to be better, it is also a stronger rod.

Rex
Well, you can't argue with that.
The guy who owns the show should know whats going on (hopefully ).
We were told different, but it seems there was some confusion on this subject. You have to believe what the guy at the top says is correct.
I will bake up a little serving of humble pie for dessert tonight
Thanks for sorting that out Trey.

Just as a footnote: With the Govarossi motor, we tried a 21-0600 rod on the Nova crank, but it was a little sloppy (worn crank pin maybe we thought). We tried a 28-0600 rod and it was a real nice fit ?? Just a difference in tolerances between batches maybe? I don't really wanna know. End of debate as far as I'm concerned, but I will still be keeping the older 28-0600 rods in stock just in case the big guy got misinformed too

Last edited by grizz1; 01-15-2010 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 01-14-2010 | 09:54 PM
  #9764  
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Speaking of crank pins...

I've spoken with some of you, who have expressed some frustration when pulling the engine apart, prior to running it. It seems that the conrod is tough to get off the crank pin, if you disassemble prior to running. Basically, when you break in the motor, this loosens up a bit.

Anyways- you are taking apart the motor prior to running it, use a pair of small curved needle nose pliers to get the rod halfway off. While holding the curved pliers so that the rod is still half off the crank pin, tap the pin with a small hammer and a 3mm hex driver. This will pop the rod through without chipping the conrod.
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Old 01-14-2010 | 10:59 PM
  #9765  
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I find an appropriate sized plastic cable tie passed under and around the back of rod works well. I don't like putting metal on metal inside a motor.
You will find it takes a good deal of running before the rod will come off easily - probably when you should be looking at changing the initial rod anyway - after around 7 - 9 litres from new

Last edited by grizz1; 01-15-2010 at 12:40 AM.
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