You're going to love the B5 but if really is a small track you might want to give the B3 a shot there. This is an under appreciated motor! For the $149 that they are selling for now you get an awesome bottom to mid engine with realy good run time that performs just like the OS V-Spec at roughly half the price lol!

Was looking at the question from jmoneym, anyone have any experience running the B5 with the GRP pipe???

this is alex....no problem ron. it's full throttle for me.....the B5's runs great with the associated 2035 pipe/manifold................i'll hook up with mike battaile at motorama this coming february in penna to, maybe, pry some special "tuning" tips from him......lol

i will be running truggy B5 with 053 pipe ,werks fuel . in Motorama. i hope to due well

Instead of the 053 if you have a 2035 laying around try that. They work as good as the 2013 for half the price. Ron if your lerking this is a pipe Werks might want to look into. Alot of the guys at the track I run at are using them with there B5s. Even some of the guys running the B7s are using them.

jmoneym, I dont have a B5 yet so no experience with the GRP 2053 combo. I can tell you that a GRP 2053 is not a 053 pipe not even close. I had the Ti coated twist lock & standard version of the GRP 2053 & other than the GRP motor it was sold for it never ran right on any other motor I put it on. When compaired to my DYN 053 & OFNA 053 which run about the same the GRP 2053 is way down on power & is soft & unresponseive. If you screw the tune to make it resopsive it run very hot & is still a slug. That is on OS,Picco,nova & older Sirios motors from 3 or so years ago. I loaned it out to other people that wanted to see what the twist lock design is all about & other than loving the twist lock part they all hated the pipe.

You might get lucky with the newer Sirio based motors but simply judging by the fact that pipes that work well with most brands of motors also work well with the B5 I'm betting the GRP 2053 that works very poorly with most motors will work poorly with the B5 also. I would beg,borrow or steal other pipes to take with you just in case.

Good luck.

well i just sold the 2053 , dont want to spend $100 on a pipe. i have a jp4,jp1,jp2,dyn 053 and 086. i tested the 053 felt pretty good.i didnt time it but i know i got at least 8+min, might pick up a TT 2035

thanks

I have a 2035 as well, only pain in the ass with the 2035 is that it is incredibly long. Always melts a hole in the front of my buggy bodies.

is the AE pipe the same as the TT 2035?

good question....was wondering myself..

The TT 2035 is to long for the 6T I have a AE 2035 coming and will let you know if it fits. But the 2035 is an awesome pipe on this motor I run 10 min on a buggy with it.

i was looking to order a TT 2035 at Amain . read its similar to the 053 was not surprised. cause what i said before the DYN 053 feels really good. the only other pipe i tested was a JP1 . its winter here in NJ so i cant test my others but i will stick with the 053 in the truggy

as any one tried the EB Mods pipe on the B5 if what was the results you had.

loving this new b5 but keep getting a low end bog once my tank is past about 1/3 empty and have fatned lowend needle quite a bit to try and compensate but am having no luck. temps around 215, jp3 pipe with sidewinder 30%. any suggestions?

If it's consistently once your tank is 1/3rd empty it sounds like it could be a pressure issue. First I'd check your tank for leaks as well as your lines. Pull the tank, fuel line and pressure line. Stick a screw in the fuel line and submerge everything in water and blow on the pressure line. If you see bubbles anywhere you got a leak. If not then check your tune. Pull the air filter and set your slide so that the carb is open about 3/4-1mm. Set the HS needle flush and then fire it up n see how it idles. If you have a high idle richen the LS needle until it becomes smooth and steady (do the exact opposite if you have a low idle). Once you have that done put it on the track and run some laps only tuning the hs sothat you get the performance (and temp range) thAt you want. Then come back into the pit and see how it idles.... Now do not touch the idle stop screw but rather adjust the LS to get the idle you want (richening will make it slower, leaning will make it faster). Once you have adjusted your idle correctly with the LS you are done and your carb is set properly. After this if anything changes while running then there is something other than the engine/carb settings causing it. Hope this helps! Let me know what you come up with.

Regards,

Ron

Wow photoshop is cool!