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Old 09-21-2009, 03:00 PM
  #5206  
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Originally Posted by casterdriver
Was this a brand new bell? I have noticed the mugen bells show some of what looks like heat bluing(sp) after the first couple of runs....... its not getting hot , to me its the heat treat from manufacturing you are seeing after the coating gets burned away, all of mine do this. If the shoes look good dont worry about it IMHO.
Yeah, brand new bell and it turned that color ! it kinda freaked me out a bit

Originally Posted by OfnaJoe
Mugen bells do turn a nice shade of "Burple", mine did with composites, guess the extra slipping heated it up a little more.
Yup, I think that sums up the color mine turned to Burple (Blue & Purple)
Originally Posted by Integra
comp's slip there no 2 way's about it....if you have a stiff spring in conjunction with the comp's it will slip even more....i would suggest adding 1 alum to your combo and only stall the composite shoes so they give a soft engagement point and stall the alum high if your looking for that later stall a stiff spring would offer.

the heat discoloration isn't anything to worry yourself about....if you temp the bell and its 300degrees...then look into the problem.
I did not temp it, but it was very hot to the touch. And I kinda got a little scared because it turned that color in so little time I thought it was burning up my clutch, but the bell does spin very freely. I will dissasemble the clutch to have a look at it and let you guy's know if I can take pics I'll put them on so you guy's can take a look.
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:19 PM
  #5207  
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Originally Posted by XXX8ight
Just made the switch from losi to mugen. I finished breaking in a new vspec in my mbx6 yesterday. However, I did notice a lot of body roll. I am running 40wt in the front and 30wt in the back. Can someone tell me a good ride height?
i thought the same to mate after the change what i done was stand the shocks up in the tower in the next hole im still running 40 all round with max droop at the moment the moment havnt alot of time of testing as yet more time soon i hope
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:29 PM
  #5208  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
i thought the same to mate after the change what i done was stand the shocks up in the tower in the next hole im still running 40 all round with max droop at the moment the moment havnt alot of time of testing as yet more time soon i hope
I run a similar set up, but my track is really blown out right now...
If your track is smooth you can take away some droop which helps with the body roll.
Body roll in itself = more traction
unless you feel your car is acting slugish there's no reason to get rid of it lol
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:32 PM
  #5209  
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i know what you mean , i took droop out and the rear end became quiet skatey in parts of the track all in all awsome i really like the buggy but not to keen on the carbon front tower got an alloy one for it
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:38 PM
  #5210  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
i know what you mean , i took droop out and the rear end became quiet skatey in parts of the track all in all awsome i really like the buggy but not to keen on the carbon front tower got an alloy one for it
The car is excellent and don't worry about the towers I've seen them take some pretty bad hits and rool away where Losi's would bend break and get ripped away from the gear box lol
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:43 PM
  #5211  
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no probs mate i dont have a problem with the carbon in my truggy but i guess i thought been at the front of a buggy and exposed i thought it may be a target but alot of buggys are going going carbon now days
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:01 AM
  #5212  
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Keep in mind overheated bells also mean overheated clutch bearings, which fail much sooner - and then, say ciao to any kind of performance. it isn't just about the color or the clutch temp...

It could very well be that the D8 clutch shoes are designed to work with a smaller bell, which mean that they engage at too high an rpm, which in turn creates too much slip especially with carbon shoes.

The stock mugen clutch keeps its nice "bronze" color when ran with the stock aluminium shoe. Btw I've tried quite a few clutches this season and the stock setup is the absolute best one on the track... although a fairly expensive one (time and cash) to maintain in top shape.

Paul
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:18 AM
  #5213  
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i have found the standard clutches wear very well , i have also been trying the VP pro clutch shoes seem to be very good aswell last awhile and coem with the springs good value
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:26 AM
  #5214  
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does anyone have an issue with the diff leaking oil front and rear , are there differant orings which can be used at all ? both my truggy and buggy have theh same problem leaking
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:45 AM
  #5215  
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Tony sells some

www.tonysscrews.com
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:55 AM
  #5216  
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thanks mate
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:41 AM
  #5217  
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VPPro shoes - I have some myself, the wear is good, and they're inexpensive BUT beware, they are designed for 26.5mm internal clutches... not the smaller ones like the Mugen's (26.1mm). They "work" with the mugen clutch but engage a tad too early.

Tony's S5 rings are the best cure to leaky diffs indeed, but the diffs shouldn't be topped off any further than the satellite gear axle anyway, even with Tony's magic o-rings rebuild and grease the diff outdrives well too

Paul
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:20 AM
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thanks lonestar , my diffs leak where there is no oil left mate , even with new mugan o-rings i will order some from tonysscrews
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:45 AM
  #5219  
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Default quick question

Quick question on the mbx6 fuel filter. Does the fuel go into the side that unscrews or the other side from the tank. Thanks
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:20 PM
  #5220  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
thanks lonestar , my diffs leak where there is no oil left mate , even with new mugan o-rings i will order some from tonysscrews
i use the stock o rings and gaskets. i dont change them every time i do the diffs, but the oil will leak out past the orings if no grease is put on them. after you place the s5 oring in the groove put a layer of mobile 1 grease on top of the oring. use the 3 or 2.5mm hex head driver to get the grease on the o ring down in the diff cup. until i started doing the diffs this way i was replacing the o ring/gasket every time and still the diffs were leaking. if you just cake the oring and try to place it in the groove, it wont seat all the way and it'll push the washer up into the gears and cause the diff to feel tight. i do my diffs every two weeks now with only 1 diff gasket and even with old and sometimes they feel a little stiff o rings my diffs dont leak. im sure tony's o rings are really good, just trying to help.
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