where is good place to perchase one of these motors and what pipe should i run? what is a good go tech motor and pipe combo?


thanks

That a really good question. Some people buy from the cheapest online place they can, sometimes out of there own country. First of all you should try to buy from your local hobby shop, they should be able to help you with any questions. If your local hs doesn't carry them and you can't persuade them in to ordering one then go elsewhere. I recommend buying from someone that has experience with the motors and not just a warehouse. I sell motors but also help you if you have trouble tuning, or warranty issues. I also offer a discount when it comes time for a rebuild.
If you do buy one out of your country the warranty is not good in your country so you have to send it back possibly.

Rex

Hi Matt. I spoke with Massive regarding the break in shim in the MG66, and he said not to bother with it. The new range of motors (MG66 and GX Series) are designed with less initial pinch, so the strain on the rod etc is greatly reduced. The 66 turned over on the starter box no problems without the break in shim, so the GX should be the same.
__________________
Shane "Grizzly" Adams.
X-Ray XB 808 Buggy
GO MG66 & GO Stage5 5 Port / 2072 Pipe
MASSIVE MODS - High Performance Engines & Fuels.
ACE - AVID - VP PRO - SPEKTRUM
Grizz I just scored a rb modded 3 port with 1/2 gallon on it. Paid 90.00 for it. It is not run in yet. actually I took the back cover off to see the signature,sure enough it's there.Then I added the run in shim. One of the reasons I was asking about the new gx 5 port for the run in shim is because it is my opinion people want to run 4-5 tanks through the engines and start race tune. We who have experience with the go line know that is far from the case. And I believe that's why I got this engine for next to nothing.[besides people cannot read or comprehend on how to tune] My 5 port now has 3/4 of a gallon through it and is still tight. And like you I preheat every time until they are broken in. In the morning I will go through the seals and seal everything up. I wanted to get a new gx series 5 port but think I will wait until they have been out for awhile to see what every one thinks of them. If I hadn't gotten my traffic ticket I would own a mg 66. But looking back on my experience I am not sure I need or can handle all that power. I have a 7 port with 12 gallons on it.So I think I will wait till these other 3 wear out. See what the real deal is with the new line and then go from there. See what happens with 22 racer as far as buying an engine from him. Getting the engines, parts, what not. I try to take good care of my stuff so looks like I found my xmas present for this year.

Now that WAS a bargain Nice one - Merry Xmas

The pinch is greatly reduced on the newer motors it seems, but I still think a decent break in period makes for a longer lasting engine ultimately. Pushing too hard when there is still considerable pinch present must be hard on any motor.

Handling the power from the MG66 is not an issue really. The motor is so tractable, and and the power curve so linear, that racers of any experiance should be able to drive it comfortably. It is quite different to any motor I have used. The modded 5 Port with the softer bottom end is pretty smooth to drive, but nothing like the MG66. The more you pull the throttle, the faster it goes, and the response is completely in sync - like one of those variable speed electric drills, that's about the best way to describe it I guess Very easy to drive.
If you get a chance to pick up an MG66 I would jump at it. It is a very nice motor, and at the price it is a steal when compared to what you would pay for some other "exotic" motor that would not match it - IMO.

well i took my new motor out today for a play the gx5r still has pinch only 13 tanks through it and the thing is awsome in my truggy was unstopable the new line is so dam good didnt TQ startes in 2nd but at the end the new motoe came through with victory in 1st smoking the ninja and os speeds ...

fule economy at this stage not good was getting about 8m 30 but was still abit rich and still alot of nip

I'm having a little trouble with break in on my Go-Tech 5 Port. I wrapped the head in aluminum foil and heated the engine up to around 210 degrees. Primed the carb and tried to start it up. The engine will just not start. When I watch the fuel line fuel is going crazy in there. Air bubbles are everywhere going to the carb, then going backwards towards the fuel tank. Surely this is most likely a bad fuel tank, right? I'm going to buy a new one along with fuel tubing and a fuel filter. Do you think this will work? Any other suggestions?

You may have a bad tank, I also blow into the pressure line to get some fuel into the motor. I actually heat mine closer to 240 deg.


Bigmatt, the 3 port race never came new with as much pinch as the 5 or 7. Was the crank black? I never figured out why Rick black oxides the cranks, it's actually black rust.

Rex

To the gent above racer22, get rid of the fuel filter first! Run straight tubing to carb.
You are correct Rex black? coated kinda.But not like the black crank shafts that were out for a while. This 3 port with 1/2 gallon can only be turned over by hand with fly wheel on. And that is not to easy to do. I just finished running a few tanks through it after i changed all seals,installed extra head shim. I see why they call these rippindiculus! I am using a 086 dynamite pipe. Down low very controllable. 1/2 throttle in my back yard is all I could get for speed. Wants to shit and git!I'm going to run a few more tanks through it just to make sure everything is okay, because I do beleive I have it sold already.

Hides carbon and flow trails and makes modding harder for amateurs?? Shows where engine issues may have originated with warranty issues??

Just thinkin out loud. I've seen that thinking with paintball manufacturers.

Before changing your tank, try to protect your carb from the hot air that you are using to heat the engine...
This problem look more like a "vapor lock" than a bad thank...

I'm from Brazil, and here vapor lock is when your carburetor is to hot and the fuel evaporates before enter in the engine, I don't know if in the USA you use the same term.

Naa...vapor lock is when you fill the combustion chamber with liquid fuel that cannot be compressed. Here in the US anyway

The opposite of that might be called a flame-out. Generally, that's a too lean condition caused my too much heat and/or pre-burning.

*Please explain hydro-lock, vapor-lock, and flame-out? I assumed the terms were interchangeable because of the "locked" condition...he's just plain ole' not starting.

I had this issue with breaking in my 3 port sport. I'm not sure if the 5 port has the same aluminum body carb as the sport models do but it soaks up heat just as fast as the motor and would vapor lock really easily. In the end I had to heat up my motor to just below that point, fire it up, then immediately get the heat gun on it to get the temp the rest of the way up.

5 gallons later and still running strong as soon as I replace the front bearing.

*Edit* To the above poster, that sounds like hydro lock, not vapor lock. 2 different things.

IF YOU HAVE A FUEL FILTER TAKE IT OUT.! RUN STRAIGHT TUBING TO CARB! If you are seeing alot of air bubbles in line chances are it's the filter. I learned that lesson the hard way. Thought it was tight,sealed the thing sucked air like a smoker on an oxygen tank. I did the same thing . New tank,and tubing,sealed engine,until some one with experience said get rid of the fuel filter. Bingo ran like a charm. Just had it happen to me a few weeks ago. took fuel filter out of line, hooked direct problem solved. One of the vets here said a fuel filter is really just for more run time as the tank has a filter in it any way. I have seen guys run 2 filters. They take out the inside stone,bingo extra mileage. If you do not have fuel filter in place check your tubing,just replace it. Then check to make sure the nipple coming out of the tank is on tight. Don't strip it checking. But I have had as well as probably everyone on this thread at one time or the other had fuel tubing that rubbed up against something causing the tiniest hole. The other thing you can do is put the tank in water seal off one end[going to carb] blow into tank. If there is a leak you will see it. Makes pretty bubbles under water.

IMO it sounds like have an air leak i certainly would be checking the tank and checking that the lines are all okey exhaust gaskest ect

Uhmmm, I think that a vapor lock is not that.. What you said, for me is a hydro lock...
And a flame-out for me is when the engine turn off in the track, don't matter the problem (too lean, bad plug, etc)
But I'm from Brazil, and the "terms" here could be diferent

Anyway, I said that the problem could be a vapor lock, because this already happened to me, I was putting hot air direct to the carb, and the carb get to hot that the fuel evaporates before enter in the engine, making a lot of bublles in the fuel line... And I was not using an fuel filter when this happened to me...

But try to take out your fuel filter too...