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Old 08-17-2009 | 08:07 AM
  #8311  
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Paperman I use a Dynamite 053, but my engine is modded. The 086 is a good match for it in stock form. But have seen guys use the 053 or other midrange pipe with the stock 3 port. I would say get a set of carb restricters. I use the 6.5 which at this time is the smallest GO offers. I want an even smaller 1 and belive the new GX line they go down to a 6mm. You go down on the restricter and you will se more runtime and it really doesnt affect power that much. On my 3 port I have my radio set to pull the carb open 70% when I pull it all the way. On my 5 port I had it set at 50% and still had more power than most. But with a stock 3 port stock insert you could squeeze a bit more time out of there with your tune. Just be patient and dont worry about temp all you need to see is smoke. Also I suggest a Donutracing cooling head, it will bring your temps down hence a bit more runtime just dont get greedy leaning the mill out LOL.
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Old 08-17-2009 | 02:23 PM
  #8312  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
Is this the break in shim that massive mods sells? That fits under the cylinder to crank case. or are you using a.01mm shim,drilling the notch?
I have no ideal how thick the MM break in shim is but it's installed the same. I use different thickness depending on what I want to do.

Rex
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Old 08-17-2009 | 06:48 PM
  #8313  
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The MM run in ring is 0.5 mm thick

the problem with using it as a performance changing tool is it advances all port timings .. this dosent always work when you are talking .5 mm .. it can work with thinner ones say .1 or .2 which makes a nice difference with about 50% of engines. When you really want to change the timing you need to change the exhaust and shulnere port timings at different measurements, ie you want the max effect of a mod. .
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Old 08-17-2009 | 07:36 PM
  #8314  
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Paperman I forgot to mention, if you have a large track with long straights your probablyy better with the 086 but if you track is more med to small with decent size straights and maybe some short run ups to jumps the 053 will be better for you. The 0801 Go pipe is like the 086 and the Go 2047 is closer to the 053 if you want to try a go pipe.
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Old 08-17-2009 | 09:03 PM
  #8315  
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Originally Posted by malik
Paperman I forgot to mention, if you have a large track with long straights your probablyy better with the 086 but if you track is more med to small with decent size straights and maybe some short run ups to jumps the 053 will be better for you. The 0801 Go pipe is like the 086 and the Go 2047 is closer to the 053 if you want to try a go pipe.
Thank u for Malik for some good advice the info will really help
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Old 08-17-2009 | 10:37 PM
  #8316  
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Originally Posted by Paperman 90
Thank u for Malik for some good advice the info will really help
If your going to get a GO pipe for the 3 Port, get the 0801 or the 2072. Both these have a longer header than the 086 for a little more bottom end. The 0801 gives exceptional economy, and I believe the 2072 is the same economy wise.
The newer 2072 has increased top end over the 0801 as well, so it would be the one to go for I would think.
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Old 08-18-2009 | 02:16 AM
  #8317  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
If your going to get a GO pipe for the 3 Port, get the 0801 or the 2072. Both these have a longer header than the 086 for a little more bottom end. The 0801 gives exceptional economy, and I believe the 2072 is the same economy wise.
The newer 2072 has increased top end over the 0801 as well, so it would be the one to go for I would think.
talking 2072 grizz1 I was running in the 7 port with the 2047 cause I was reinforcing the stinger I broke on the 2072 by building up thin layers of jb weld..anyway 7 port was running just sweet throughout the rev range with the 2047..switched it for the 2072 and ran it down the straight and it was practically 4 stroking at the top end.had to close the hsn a full half turn..didn't touch the lsn and now it runs spot on perfect with the 2072...

there's your xtra runtime right there..1/2 turn shut on the hsn..switched the pipes back to test I hadn't made some other adjustment inadvertently but nope..2047 open hsn 1/2 turn..2072 close by same amount..

I do prefer the sound of the 2047 though..nice deep throaty crackle.plenty of rooooolled r's .the 2072 is louder and is a flatter harsher sound..but as sound is secondary and of no importance performance wise.what the hell.

MG66 might be here today..surely this week..
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Old 08-18-2009 | 03:14 AM
  #8318  
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i have tested all the pipes now and combinations on my Go Techs inc the the 2047 with a longer head ect , out off all 3 of them i would much prefer the 2072 pipe its very balanced and provides the power and economy just perfect , of you havent got a pipe yet and you are in the market IMO i would just buy the 2072 pipe straight out
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Old 08-18-2009 | 04:31 AM
  #8319  
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Postie has just been

NO MG66 and NO gearset for my steering servo
BUMMER
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Old 08-18-2009 | 10:05 AM
  #8320  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
I have no ideal how thick the MM break in shim is but it's installed the same. I use different thickness depending on what I want to do.

Rex
What shim do you use? I'd like to try this mod - I feel my 5p is lacking on top end - even with a 2072. I have some extra head shims but I don't think they'd fit under the sleeve...can you point me in the right direction?


Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2009 | 02:34 PM
  #8321  
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have you tried playing around with differant gearing at all to get more top end ?
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Old 08-18-2009 | 02:51 PM
  #8322  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
talking 2072 grizz1 I was running in the 7 port with the 2047 cause I was reinforcing the stinger I broke on the 2072 by building up thin layers of jb weld..anyway 7 port was running just sweet throughout the rev range with the 2047..switched it for the 2072 and ran it down the straight and it was practically 4 stroking at the top end.had to close the hsn a full half turn..didn't touch the lsn and now it runs spot on perfect with the 2072...

there's your xtra runtime right there..1/2 turn shut on the hsn..switched the pipes back to test I hadn't made some other adjustment inadvertently but nope..2047 open hsn 1/2 turn..2072 close by same amount..

I do prefer the sound of the 2047 though..nice deep throaty crackle.plenty of rooooolled r's .the 2072 is louder and is a flatter harsher sound..but as sound is secondary and of no importance performance wise.what the hell.

MG66 might be here today..surely this week..
Hey Giz, you must be hanging out for the 66 by now. Nothing worse than waiting for the postie everyday It will come soon bro
Yes, I found exactly the same thing with the 2072. I had to lean my motors heaps when I fitted it in comparison to the other pipes. Also the sound. You have described it really well. Flatter and harsher - especially at idle, it sounds kinda weird, but who cares if it goes better. It still sounds nasty when the rev's get up though

Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
i have tested all the pipes now and combinations on my Go Techs inc the the 2047 with a longer head ect , out off all 3 of them i would much prefer the 2072 pipe its very balanced and provides the power and economy just perfect , of you havent got a pipe yet and you are in the market IMO i would just buy the 2072 pipe straight out
I have done more testing with the 2072 on my 7 port. Fiddled with the carb, plug and tune a bit, and I would have to say now that the 2072 does perform better than the 2047 with long header on my 7 Port (sorry Adrian). It definitely has more top end. The 7 port just keeps on winding out big time The bottom is pretty similar, but it seems to get into the mid range and top end quicker than with the 2047 combo. It's a very sharp response right through the range. Economy is noticibly improved also.
The 2072 on the modded 5 port is a complete animal so no worries there.
It seems the 2072 is pretty sweet on the 3 ports also. So like Matt says - it's a one stop shop when looking for a pipe to suit your GO engine.

The old Gen 4 carb on my 7 Port is a little funky. It appears either the spray bar is off-set, or the LSN threads are different some how.
I re-installed the long LSN, and to get the motor to run correctly the HSN is like 1.5 turns in from flush and the LSN is a crazy 4 + turns in
Any further out on the HSN than this and she just runs rich as a pig. It's the only GO carb I have seen with the long needle that runs the HSN any further in than .5 to .75 of a turn. I spent 30 mins or so tweaking it the other night and it's running absolutely perfect with these settings, so they must be what it likes. It was the same when I had the short needle fitted. I was in nearly 5 turns on the LSN to get it running sweet. Bit weird, but it runs real good like this so I just go with it
I was going to replace the carby, but I think I'll just run it like this until it dies, then replace the whole motor with a you know what
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Old 08-18-2009 | 02:52 PM
  #8323  
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sleeve shims are almost always made from old sleeves, nice to see some old school tricks comming back again
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Old 08-18-2009 | 03:01 PM
  #8324  
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which go motor would you all recommend for a buggy and truggy
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Old 08-18-2009 | 03:30 PM
  #8325  
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Originally Posted by forrestboy
which go motor would you all recommend for a buggy and truggy
In order of preference (talking stock motors only)

Buggy - 7 Port then 3 Port

Truggy - 5 Port then 7 Port


If your talking modded motors as well, then personally

Buggy - MG66, then a suitably modded 5 Port, followed by a stock 7 Port

Truggy - Stock 5 Port (for the big bottom end)


2072 Pipe on any of these motors

Everyone will have their favourites when it comes to modded motors, so it's really a matter of personal opinion and what suits each persons home track layout etc. Plus every engine modder produces a slightly different product, so it's very hard to compare.

Last edited by grizz1; 08-18-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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