Go-Tech Engines Thread
#8267
Guys, I'm in the market for a new engine for my Hyper 7. I've had my eye on the Go-Tech 5 port for some time now and I think its come time to purchase a new engine. I'm pretty tight on money, so saving money anywhere is good for me. Is it worth it to get the 5 port over the 3 port? Is just a weekend warrior driver like me really going to notice the difference that much? I am hopefully going to get into racing soon as well so keep that into consideration. Just looking for your thoughts. 

#8270
The 3 port is really smooth, I recommend it for someone with less experience but it will compete in the expert/ pro level. It helps a new person not overdrive the car.
Rex
#8271
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 377
For those waiting for the MG66 I can say it's worth it 
I have now about 1 1/4gallons through the engine and it's starting to open up (not that it was dull in the first place) I run it in with MM run in oil on the first 5 tanks, then gradually leaning out. It still had the break in shimm in place but I plan to remove it b/f tomorrows race. Also I started with OS P3 for break-in to ease the idle etc. but I dropped to Hobbytech T6 (about OS P4) and it worked better.
What I've noticed is that this seems to be easier to tune than the hand modified MG66. Engine is very nice to drive and linear. Powerdelivery is smoother than Stage5 5pt and overall it has more power. TO me it's definitely a buggy engine and for truggy you use either standard 5pt or the Stage5.
With still rich settings (after clutch issues and no time to retune) I was pitting 8min 30s with 1/5 tank fuel still left so with 7mm restrictor I assume it will soon reach the 10min mark when it's settled.
Setup:
MG66
Hobbytech T6 plug (P4)
GO 2072 pipe
Byron Race2500 ProDriver
M2C 4shoe clutch, reg-medium shoes, 2x yellow + 2x black springs
Standard shimming
8mm restrictor

I have now about 1 1/4gallons through the engine and it's starting to open up (not that it was dull in the first place) I run it in with MM run in oil on the first 5 tanks, then gradually leaning out. It still had the break in shimm in place but I plan to remove it b/f tomorrows race. Also I started with OS P3 for break-in to ease the idle etc. but I dropped to Hobbytech T6 (about OS P4) and it worked better.
What I've noticed is that this seems to be easier to tune than the hand modified MG66. Engine is very nice to drive and linear. Powerdelivery is smoother than Stage5 5pt and overall it has more power. TO me it's definitely a buggy engine and for truggy you use either standard 5pt or the Stage5.
With still rich settings (after clutch issues and no time to retune) I was pitting 8min 30s with 1/5 tank fuel still left so with 7mm restrictor I assume it will soon reach the 10min mark when it's settled.
Setup:
MG66
Hobbytech T6 plug (P4)
GO 2072 pipe
Byron Race2500 ProDriver
M2C 4shoe clutch, reg-medium shoes, 2x yellow + 2x black springs
Standard shimming
8mm restrictor
#8272
you will not be disapointed in the 3 port , mines a moded one has heaps of punch and heaps of top end , just because its a 3 port dont let it fool you it has more than enough power for most tracks with incredable run time mixed with the 2072 pipe awsome
#8274
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,807
From: Virginia
For those waiting for the MG66 I can say it's worth it 
I have now about 1 1/4gallons through the engine and it's starting to open up (not that it was dull in the first place) I run it in with MM run in oil on the first 5 tanks, then gradually leaning out. It still had the break in shimm in place but I plan to remove it b/f tomorrows race. Also I started with OS P3 for break-in to ease the idle etc. but I dropped to Hobbytech T6 (about OS P4) and it worked better.
What I've noticed is that this seems to be easier to tune than the hand modified MG66. Engine is very nice to drive and linear. Powerdelivery is smoother than Stage5 5pt and overall it has more power. TO me it's definitely a buggy engine and for truggy you use either standard 5pt or the Stage5.
With still rich settings (after clutch issues and no time to retune) I was pitting 8min 30s with 1/5 tank fuel still left so with 7mm restrictor I assume it will soon reach the 10min mark when it's settled.
Setup:
MG66
Hobbytech T6 plug (P4)
GO 2072 pipe
Byron Race2500 ProDriver
M2C 4shoe clutch, reg-medium shoes, 2x yellow + 2x black springs
Standard shimming
8mm restrictor

I have now about 1 1/4gallons through the engine and it's starting to open up (not that it was dull in the first place) I run it in with MM run in oil on the first 5 tanks, then gradually leaning out. It still had the break in shimm in place but I plan to remove it b/f tomorrows race. Also I started with OS P3 for break-in to ease the idle etc. but I dropped to Hobbytech T6 (about OS P4) and it worked better.
What I've noticed is that this seems to be easier to tune than the hand modified MG66. Engine is very nice to drive and linear. Powerdelivery is smoother than Stage5 5pt and overall it has more power. TO me it's definitely a buggy engine and for truggy you use either standard 5pt or the Stage5.
With still rich settings (after clutch issues and no time to retune) I was pitting 8min 30s with 1/5 tank fuel still left so with 7mm restrictor I assume it will soon reach the 10min mark when it's settled.
Setup:
MG66
Hobbytech T6 plug (P4)
GO 2072 pipe
Byron Race2500 ProDriver
M2C 4shoe clutch, reg-medium shoes, 2x yellow + 2x black springs
Standard shimming
8mm restrictor
low-end balls that a truggy needs? How would you
compare the MG66 to a 7 port as far as low-end power
goes?
#8277
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,323
From: Erie Pa.
I only recommend the 5 port for buggy if its modded and with the smallest restricter carbon clutch and .9 or 1.0 springs. If modded to tame the bottum and bring on the mid- top will be a screamer in buggy or truggy. The 3 port is an awesome mill it is alittle cheaper but still has plenty power and the delivery is smooth. Mine is modded and its just insane, but I drove a stock 1 and it was very powerful and had bottum end to spare. 1 thing I can say about any Go is they dont lack in power. I run my 3 port in buggy with 6.5mm restricter and carbon shoes with 1.0 springs and I use a 053 pipe. The 086 pipe will help out in the top end of the powerband. The 053 is for me its a midrange pipe and I think it suites the 3 port well also. I used both on it and the 053 is the better choice but dont forget my mill is modded. I had Mark at Powerhouse put a race port on it and his work is insane he has a sport mod a race port and a turbo mod which makes the crank look like a fan blade. My buddy has a 5 port with the fan blade and that thing is just sick.
#8278
Hey All
Just a general note , we have had a bazillion enquiries from the US for the MG66 Engine , while we can export to the US direct we would prefer if you request the engine from Racefactor which are the US Go Dealer.
And on a side note the First 100 units sold out in 3 days so it might be good to pre order if you want one
Cheers MM
Just a general note , we have had a bazillion enquiries from the US for the MG66 Engine , while we can export to the US direct we would prefer if you request the engine from Racefactor which are the US Go Dealer.
And on a side note the First 100 units sold out in 3 days so it might be good to pre order if you want one
Cheers MM
#8279
Hey Pete , I recommend putting some carb and exhaust caps on so she cant hear it purr in bed with you ... MMMMBAHAHA !
#8280
Yeah Deano had it tuned just right , it was very smooth ! its designed to be a smooth engine to drive .. more times than not stump pulling bottom end can make you slower , spin out , wheel spin .. The MG66 planted the power nicely from what i saw .. id say the clutch set up had somethign to do with it ..



2Likes

