Keyence ESC
11-26-2003 | 10:15 AM
#31
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 209
Quantum 2 is exactly the same as Dominator Evolution!
The plus point of these speedo is in reactive drive frequency!
The speedo will know where is your car on the track! When accelerating the frequency will automatically lowered, so you have more punch! on the straight line the freq will automatically higher, so you have the top speed and very efficient!
Let's try it!
The plus point of these speedo is in reactive drive frequency!
The speedo will know where is your car on the track! When accelerating the frequency will automatically lowered, so you have more punch! on the straight line the freq will automatically higher, so you have the top speed and very efficient!
Let's try it!
11-26-2003 | 12:35 PM
#32
the GM esc you tried was it the 12SX or the 12V series? very interested in the new SX version
Originally posted by xray
Yes I did! It is very smooth but powerfull, very difficult to program though! For advance setting you need to have GM Commander!
I still like my Keyence better!
Gm is comparable to Nosram Dominator Evolution! take a look!
Yes I did! It is very smooth but powerfull, very difficult to program though! For advance setting you need to have GM Commander!
I still like my Keyence better!
Gm is comparable to Nosram Dominator Evolution! take a look!
11-27-2003 | 07:07 AM
#37
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 291
From: Niagara Falls, Ontario
Originally posted by duckman
Hi,
I have a keyence v zero extreme, what guage wires are you guys using that is safe and isn't the stock wires from keyence?
any help is greatly appreciated
duckman
Hi,
I have a keyence v zero extreme, what guage wires are you guys using that is safe and isn't the stock wires from keyence?
any help is greatly appreciated
duckman
11-27-2003 | 08:24 AM
#38
Originally posted by Pyramid
Yes, KO needs another hardware to do the programming, the best is through PC. In turn, programming is much easier.
Yes, freg is limited but already cover all needed low and high freg as you can imagine. In keyence, freg is adjustable but on a flat/fixed freq along with throtle trigger, not stepped/user choice at any throtle trigger as with KO VIS2000.
Both are great and very advance ESCs.
Yes, KO needs another hardware to do the programming, the best is through PC. In turn, programming is much easier.
Yes, freg is limited but already cover all needed low and high freg as you can imagine. In keyence, freg is adjustable but on a flat/fixed freq along with throtle trigger, not stepped/user choice at any throtle trigger as with KO VIS2000.
Both are great and very advance ESCs.
12-10-2003 | 05:11 PM
#39
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21
From: Castro Valley
Sushi Boy--
I just spoke to Adrian over at Schumacher (they are the distributor for Keyence here in the States).
He gave me the following recommendations for 1/12th mod:
Neutral width (%) 4
Min drive power (%) 0
Min braking power (%) 0
Neutral brake (%) 0
Compression retarder off
Drive Frequency (KHz) 3.5 (no less than 2, no greater than 5)
Braking Frequency (KHz) 4.0
Power limit (%) 100
Voltage of battery... 4.6 (this feature is just for feedback,
doesn't affect performance).
Neutral width is a personal preference. It determines when power is sent to the car from the neutral point of your throttle. Some people like it to come on with the slightest touch of the throttle (hence a lower #), or some like a little more "time" with the throttle before power is sent (hence a higher #).
By setting the min drive and braking power to 0%, you are making the control full linear.
The drive frequency is another personal preference and the 3.5 is just a starting point. Basically, if you want the car to feel punchier, reduce the drive frequency, and visa versa if you want it to be smoother. However, you want to try to stay within that 2 to 5 range.
Also, if you start reducing your drive frequency to gain more punch, be sure to check the motor comm and brushes. If they start to look burnt or heavily discolored, you may be getting too low on the frequency (providing that your gearing is correct).
Brake frequency is sort of like drive frequency. The higher the number, the smoother the braking will feel, and visa versa the lower the number. I would tend to stay on the higher side for this as you don't want the braking action to be "grabby" or abrupt.
I didn't ask him about 1/12 stock settings (because I don't run it), but you can contact him at ShumacherUSA (813) 889-9691 or PM him here on rctech (I think his username is AdrianM).
He was very nice and extremely helpful. So, I wouldn't hesitate to contact him with any and all questions.
Hope this helps,
DT
I just spoke to Adrian over at Schumacher (they are the distributor for Keyence here in the States).
He gave me the following recommendations for 1/12th mod:
Neutral width (%) 4
Min drive power (%) 0
Min braking power (%) 0
Neutral brake (%) 0
Compression retarder off
Drive Frequency (KHz) 3.5 (no less than 2, no greater than 5)
Braking Frequency (KHz) 4.0
Power limit (%) 100
Voltage of battery... 4.6 (this feature is just for feedback,
doesn't affect performance).
Neutral width is a personal preference. It determines when power is sent to the car from the neutral point of your throttle. Some people like it to come on with the slightest touch of the throttle (hence a lower #), or some like a little more "time" with the throttle before power is sent (hence a higher #).
By setting the min drive and braking power to 0%, you are making the control full linear.
The drive frequency is another personal preference and the 3.5 is just a starting point. Basically, if you want the car to feel punchier, reduce the drive frequency, and visa versa if you want it to be smoother. However, you want to try to stay within that 2 to 5 range.
Also, if you start reducing your drive frequency to gain more punch, be sure to check the motor comm and brushes. If they start to look burnt or heavily discolored, you may be getting too low on the frequency (providing that your gearing is correct).
Brake frequency is sort of like drive frequency. The higher the number, the smoother the braking will feel, and visa versa the lower the number. I would tend to stay on the higher side for this as you don't want the braking action to be "grabby" or abrupt.
I didn't ask him about 1/12 stock settings (because I don't run it), but you can contact him at ShumacherUSA (813) 889-9691 or PM him here on rctech (I think his username is AdrianM).
He was very nice and extremely helpful. So, I wouldn't hesitate to contact him with any and all questions.
Hope this helps,
DT
12-10-2003 | 10:37 PM
#41
Originally posted by Dennis Tom
Sushi Boy--
I just spoke to Adrian over at Schumacher (they are the distributor for Keyence here in the States).
He gave me the following recommendations for 1/12th mod:
Neutral width (%) 4
Min drive power (%) 0
Min braking power (%) 0
Neutral brake (%) 0
Compression retarder off
Drive Frequency (KHz) 3.5 (no less than 2, no greater than 5)
Braking Frequency (KHz) 4.0
Power limit (%) 100
Voltage of battery... 4.6 (this feature is just for feedback,
doesn't affect performance).
Neutral width is a personal preference. It determines when power is sent to the car from the neutral point of your throttle. Some people like it to come on with the slightest touch of the throttle (hence a lower #), or some like a little more "time" with the throttle before power is sent (hence a higher #).
By setting the min drive and braking power to 0%, you are making the control full linear.
The drive frequency is another personal preference and the 3.5 is just a starting point. Basically, if you want the car to feel punchier, reduce the drive frequency, and visa versa if you want it to be smoother. However, you want to try to stay within that 2 to 5 range.
Also, if you start reducing your drive frequency to gain more punch, be sure to check the motor comm and brushes. If they start to look burnt or heavily discolored, you may be getting too low on the frequency (providing that your gearing is correct).
Brake frequency is sort of like drive frequency. The higher the number, the smoother the braking will feel, and visa versa the lower the number. I would tend to stay on the higher side for this as you don't want the braking action to be "grabby" or abrupt.
I didn't ask him about 1/12 stock settings (because I don't run it), but you can contact him at ShumacherUSA (813) 889-9691 or PM him here on rctech (I think his username is AdrianM).
He was very nice and extremely helpful. So, I wouldn't hesitate to contact him with any and all questions.
Hope this helps,
DT
Sushi Boy--
I just spoke to Adrian over at Schumacher (they are the distributor for Keyence here in the States).
He gave me the following recommendations for 1/12th mod:
Neutral width (%) 4
Min drive power (%) 0
Min braking power (%) 0
Neutral brake (%) 0
Compression retarder off
Drive Frequency (KHz) 3.5 (no less than 2, no greater than 5)
Braking Frequency (KHz) 4.0
Power limit (%) 100
Voltage of battery... 4.6 (this feature is just for feedback,
doesn't affect performance).
Neutral width is a personal preference. It determines when power is sent to the car from the neutral point of your throttle. Some people like it to come on with the slightest touch of the throttle (hence a lower #), or some like a little more "time" with the throttle before power is sent (hence a higher #).
By setting the min drive and braking power to 0%, you are making the control full linear.
The drive frequency is another personal preference and the 3.5 is just a starting point. Basically, if you want the car to feel punchier, reduce the drive frequency, and visa versa if you want it to be smoother. However, you want to try to stay within that 2 to 5 range.
Also, if you start reducing your drive frequency to gain more punch, be sure to check the motor comm and brushes. If they start to look burnt or heavily discolored, you may be getting too low on the frequency (providing that your gearing is correct).
Brake frequency is sort of like drive frequency. The higher the number, the smoother the braking will feel, and visa versa the lower the number. I would tend to stay on the higher side for this as you don't want the braking action to be "grabby" or abrupt.
I didn't ask him about 1/12 stock settings (because I don't run it), but you can contact him at ShumacherUSA (813) 889-9691 or PM him here on rctech (I think his username is AdrianM).
He was very nice and extremely helpful. So, I wouldn't hesitate to contact him with any and all questions.
Hope this helps,
DT
-Sushi Boy
12-11-2003 | 10:38 AM
#42
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21
From: Castro Valley
Alan,
Sorry, I just got my Keyence and it's going into my 1/12th scale so I didn't ask for settings with a TC.
As I said to Sushi Boy, just give them a call or PM them. Adrian handled all my questions in a very patient, professional manner. I'm sure he will do the same when you contact him.
Lastly, according to Adrian, do NOT run any diodes on your motor. The circuitry is different than Novak, LRP etc., so it doesn't require them. In fact, if you run the diodes, you may actually end up damaging your speedo.
DT
Sorry, I just got my Keyence and it's going into my 1/12th scale so I didn't ask for settings with a TC.
As I said to Sushi Boy, just give them a call or PM them. Adrian handled all my questions in a very patient, professional manner. I'm sure he will do the same when you contact him.
Lastly, according to Adrian, do NOT run any diodes on your motor. The circuitry is different than Novak, LRP etc., so it doesn't require them. In fact, if you run the diodes, you may actually end up damaging your speedo.
DT
12-11-2003 | 02:02 PM
#43
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 41
Im using one in 1/12 mod and it is killer. As far as the Keyence not being used by many team drivers...I'm guessing its b/c Keyence is a Jap. company which has no intrest/need to pay people to use their stuff here in the states.
