if you do want to use a tool you can buy a ofna bearing puller kit from A-main hobbies i think by memory its around $55 usd it does the same thing with out the pretty packaging and rip off price tag .....

but the oven is free , you can use an old crank if you want to help in stall the bearing with no problems at all ....

i putting some Answer ceramic bearings into my engines next week ready for the nationals in my truggy

i have one of the old carbies in my older 7 port like mentioned long needle no probs with it at all , pulled the carby down dam good clean used fuel tube instead of o rings A 1 runs sweet as !

Hi all. I have a GO .21 5Port Turbo factory modified. Roughly 2 gallons of trinity 30% run through it. NEVER been onver 250 deg once. Has lost its tune and is getting wet around the lower crank near the flywheel. Could my front bearing be gone and if so can you guys lead me in ght right direction? Id like to get it fixed as I LOVE this engine! Thanks!

That sound like a definite problem, but may not be the only one. Check the carb for airleaks as well. Check the rod, make sure there isn't a lot of slop. A new TKO front bearing is only $15 from A-Main, so you could pick one up from them, follow the oven instruction on the previous page and replace the front, replace the rod if needed, o-rings int he carb if needed, reseal the whole engine with high temp silicone and should be good to go...

Nice spotting on the OFNA bearing tool Matt. I have scanned A-Main a few times looking for a reasonably priced bearing removal / install system, but never found that one in my travels. Looks like a very good buy at that price. I feel an order coming on I would still heat the crankcase with a heat gun and use the penetrating oil regardless of tool or method used. Something about wrenching a metal to metal press fit apart cold with no relief or lubrication just doesn't seem right to me

Usually when the bearing starts weaping it dosn't change it's tune, unless the seal came off or something. If you leave the car with over 1/2 tank sit for a while it can seep into the motor and look like the bearings leaking also.

Rex

Sometimes if your running too rich on the bottom end this can cause a bit of seepage from the front bearing too. As long as the black rubber seal is not turning with the inner bearing race, the bearing should be OK.
A rich bottom end may be your problem, as you said it has gone off tune a bit. Check the idle gap is correct at .7 - 1 mm and retune it from there.

I have read that with the ofna tool you still need to heat up the crank case. what happens if the bearing is in to tight it will strip the end of the ofna tool when trying to remove the bearing,making it useless,(when gripping the bearing) that's why I was asking people with more knowledge how to do it with out the 200.00 price tag. The tool I saw that if I had money to burn was the grp tool. They have one that will do it all from small to large cranks. But it was almost 300.00 if I remember correctly. So to me there had to be an old school way of doing it.

i have a front bearing that has caused tuning problems no matter how it was tuned it would lek at the front more so than others , changed the bearings problem went away , and no oil leak from the front

Yep, that GRP tool was the one I was eyeing up. Their tools and accessories are a work of art. I have seen one of the GRP tools in use and it is so simple and easy, but beautifully made and very sturdy. They do a kit with bearing tool, flywheel puller and a sleeve puller (which would be real handy for those hard to budge sleeves). I hate to think what that kit would cost.
Still, if you are going to keep your motors in good nick, sleeve removals to check internals, and regular bearing replacements are a pretty vital part of the big picture. We just need to win the lottery - simple

those ofna tools are okey , personly i would always put heat around trhe rear bearing to remove and install , im happy that both my new go-tech engines piston sleeves come out so dam easy compared to my other usualy the its in rthe oven to gey ity out as well .

the grp engine tools are very nice but i would prefer to buy another engine....

yea matt the old school way is an oven which i still llike to do , i just use one welder glove and you can hold the block very very easy mate ....

if you do get a ofna one you just use a heat gun aroung the bering area works fine

yea Matt that's what I was thinking also. It seems to me that all of them require heat of some sort.I watched a utube of a gent doing an airplane engine. He was ding it the oven,wooden dowel,crankshaft to put back in. Tapped the front bearing in with a mini hammer. But here's how my luck go's;put in oven,bearings frozen in place,try to hit with wooden dowel,cracked crank case.pis sen and moaning because I was to dam cheap to spend 60.00 for an ofne kit! By the way almost every thing I own is some form of ofna.

i dont mind the ofna gear its a good price and does the job who cares about the fancy packaging at times not always needed...

if your bearings are some what stubben after 20 mins in the oven if you have an old crank laying about you can use this to tap the bearings out i have done this befor maybe thats why grizz mentioned that penatrine stuff ?
amyway its akways the back bearing thats a bugger to remove ...

Well guys hoping to unleash the new Powerhouse 3 port race tomorrow at a large trophy race weather permitting that is.

Good Luck. Keep us posted on performance of your engine after tomorrows race.