[QUOTE=gtxracer;6040956]I can't find that seller on ebay???


Gizmatron - Did the JB weld trick work? I have quite a bit of space between the head and the body. If you wanna sell that other head, let me know.


Here's a pic of my 7 port. Poor fin

special rc here http://stores.shop.ebay.fr/special-rc__W0QQ_armrsZ1

Yes the JB weld worked fine you just need to pack it in between the fins at the sides where they attachment is longer and be careful not to obstruct the holes for access to the head bolts..bit fiddly but not rocket science..and I'll almost certainly be willing to sell my spare head in a week or so so pm me about it..

Thanks Giz

how is everyone replacing the front and rear bearings in their engines? Are we buying special tools? I read to heat up crank case,the bearings should pop out with wooden dowels. freeze bearings and they should almost fall into place?

Bigmatt if you are going TKO contact Mark at Powerhouse mods if you send him your mill and buy the bearings from him he installs them for free. He is a TKO dealer prices for the bearings are the same as Amain. Thats what I did.

big matt easy just trow your engine in the oven for 20 mins mate , make sure you remove all orings and the bearings just fall in and out , i turn my oven on full bore bake for 15-20 mins a nice mediun rare ....

thats all i do any way there are tools but usually you still need to put heat around the rear bearing thast the tight one usually ...

I really hate to be that guy but 516 pages is honestly just too much to read.

Can anyone fill me in on the consensus with the carb on these? I remember reading there were problems... Brief lesson on how tuning these is different than usual? I have a 5 port that is really giving me trouble holding a tune. Compression and plug are both good.

Thanks in advance

Most of these engines have a long low speed needle that causes them to tune different. If you go back 10 or so pages (maybe 15) there is a thread I posted recently covering this. If you can't find it, PM me and I will explain it.
Basically set the HSN at .25 of a turn in from flush, LSN start at say 1 turn in fron flush. Now tune only with the LSN. The HSN stays untouched. Also make sure the idle gap is set at .7 - 1 mm. very important for a correct tune.

all depends on carb model. a gen5 or gen5.5 will have a red go on the front,be all black with aluminum end. If that is the kind you have it is very easy to tune, providing no air leaks. If you have an air leak you will never tune it. So here go's. hsn from flush 1/2 turn in/lsn from flush 1.5 turns in,idle gap about 1mm. engine should fire right up. also use an os p-3 plug turbo. these engines I have found like the hot plugs. So let us know what you have and how it worked out.

Can't thank you enough for the fast responses. I'm going go get right on all of that and also reseal the backplate/carb bolt.

I'm currently switching between P3 and P7 and using up the rest of this 25% fuel. Needles are close to your recommendations but I'll have to measure the idle.

I'm trying very hard to decide on getting a new engine or really doing what it takes to get this dialed in. I bought it used and while it is a runner, I still just don't trust it. It loads up and stalls frequently if it idles for more then ten seconds or so. Bummer

Thanks guys!

Also, no red Go on the front just all black and aluminum. Older, harder to tune model I take it? I have 3 of them! haha

okay you could have an air leak around the needle seals. hsn/lsn. pm grizz he can tell you how to fix it with fuel tubing. It works. me I would put in the p-3 plug and lean the lsn 1 turn, but make sure your idle gap is set right. It sounds like a gen 4 carb. I have one you just need to lean the needles out a little more. I think I have the lsn 2.5 turns in and the hsn 1.5 turns in. also one last important thing, once you get this running try to run 3 tanks to get the engine fully warmed up. tuning it kinda warm will not do.

GRIZZ! I need to be schooled on bearing replacement. If you get a moment post it up here. I am sure I do not need 200.00 worth of tools to do this. And I think others may benefit from your vast knowledge.

Flattery like that will get you everything Mathew !!!!

You can buy a NZ$300 GRP bearing removal tool - or do the following :

Like mattwoodcraft said, the oven is the go.
Take everything off including the crankcase carb O ring, so you just have the bare crankcase with the two bearings in it. I like to use a penetrating oil to make the process easier. I use a product called PB Blaster, it is wicked stuff. Every RC tool box should have a can of this, along with your WD40.
Give the bearings a good spray of the penetrating oil, then let them sit for a few hours if possible. Blow off any excess oil before you put the crankcase in the oven, as it does stink a bit otherwise
Heat the oven up to 300+ and bake for 20 min or so until golden brown

Take the crankcase out of the oven (with oven mitt on) and just by tapping the rear of the crankcase on a bit of wood, the rear bearing should fall out. Use a wooden dowl to tap the front bearing out.
Give everything a good clean, particularly the bearing seats in the crankcase. Use some cotton buds and methylated spirits to make then nice and clean, ready for the new bearings. While you are baking your motor you can put the new bearings in the freezer to shrink them up a few thou.
Now fit the new cold bearings to the still pretty warm crankcase, using the crankshaft as a guide to make sure they are seated square. Put to one side, and let everything get back to room temperature, then reassemble the rest of the motor.

I still want one of those bearing replacement tools though. They are soooo easy to use, and it is all over in 5 min. But $300 is a lot for something you may only use 3 or 4 times a year at best

Hey grizz1

Hows the running in of my motor going, got any fuel though it yet???

Hi Jeff, Yep I got 3 tanks through yesterday. Got plucked for things domestic today though - bummer. Weather not looking good for the weekend but I am off for a few days between shifts next week, so will hammer it then.
Itīs coming along well, even after 3 tanks itīs starting to sound nice.
Sent you a PM too.