I have to agree as I broke the D bracket even before I broke my chassis, never replaced it tho.
These things tend to faceplant a lot!
Any brace will surely pay off.
Don't go out without protection.

Do the transmitter but keep the slipper snug or you'll lose the drive you really want.
Instead of messin with the slipper, get the side bite you need by cutting the tires as mentioned in the threads and get the forward control by adding 1 degree hubs.
This is the key, I did just those 2 tricks and was able to run an 8.5 motor geared up and at 100% throttle no problem.
Now after going back to the club preferred 13.5 (max) motor I can punch it with ease.

This truck was loose COASTING through corners before the mods.

deffinatly have to agree with Cuda that they do face plant alot. that D bracket broke on mine the same time as one of the A arms did. replaced the arms with the RPM arms (didn't see a point in doing it befor the stock ones broke) and left the D bracket alone. the way i see it, with the bracket broken, it just lets the front end have a little more "give" to it instead of being so stiff.

I am lookin for some good suggestions on shocks. mine has come down with that ae leaky shock syndrome so many have talked about.

I got sick of it too.

I have changed to Losi shocks, not just because I'm a Losi faithful but because they dont leak, have adjusters and I had some from one of my other Losi rides.

The AE 35/Gold front and the 30/Silver rear is a good setup so I copied that as close as I could with Losi's shocks, springs, pistons and oils.
Won my A main tonite at OCRC with shock setup. Ran good.

Losi fronts = 37.5 oil, Orange springs, 56 pistons

Losi rears = 32.5 oil, Pink springs, 56 pistons

Losi pistons, springs and oils are very close to AE as they actually have more to choose from so getting there was easy.

You can also choose to go slightly higher or lower in small increments with Losi's variety of shock accessories.

Next tip:
If your shocks aren't the exact length as the AE shocks and the downtravel is too much, Josh Anderson at AE showed me this trick to adjust the "droop" or down travel WITHOUT internal limiters.

Use the
extra ballstud hole next to the INNER CAMBERLINK ballstud to insert a long 4-40 setscrew.
Screw the setscrew upwards until it touches the camberlink ballcup then keep pushing up with the setscrew and it will move the camberlink as well as the arm upward to the desired "droop" setting.
Start by matching the length of the AE shocks, center to center of each shock end hole.

This works for the front and rear!

He has been using this for a long time and I have used it since my SC10 was new, first ones out.

This works just like on the onroad cars,
if your car/truck wants to bicycle or even traction roll, reduce the droop, don't let the arms hang down as far and this will help keep the chassis from rolling over as easily, less weight transfer.
Get the right suspension balance first of course but you get the idea.

nj,
you likin your brace?

the brace worked a lot better after a good coat of paint it hasn't broken so i guess it's doin it job.

which losi shocks are you using? If they don't leak i'm deffinatly willing to try them.

Paint makes it weigh more. Takes away from that raw, race ready look.

Shocks are from a Losi truck. XXX T Should work fine.

Mine are actually mixed, rears from XXX MF threaded and fronts from older XXT CR with collars cuz they are still better than those lame shims for the springs.

My SC10 got an intermittent click. Basically, under heavy throttle, I could hear it skipping gears. So, as per the supplemental instructions, I installed the additional shims. The click is gone, but before I get too far, I wanted to talk about diff fluid.

Now I've read where people are running anywhere from 20 wt shock oil, up to 30,000 wt diff lube. I have lots of different shock oils, ranging from 20 wt on up to 50 wt. I also have some losi 2k, 5k, and 7k diff fluid. Initially, I started to put 5K in it, but I read that dang near turns it into a locked diff. I still want good turn in, just more stability while accelerating. So I decided to go with the 2K, and I'm glad I did. It almost felt like too much when I was just diffing it in my hand. But after installing it, it seems about "right". I'm still running the stock tires and setup. I want to see what this change by itself does first. I plan to test soon, and will report back what I find.

What has been you guy's experience with diff fluid in the SC10? I've been racing 8th scale for several years now, and am familiar with using the various viscosities to tune the handling. But this is a weird critter being that it's 2WD...

Helpful video for those unfamiliar w/ the use of Bead Locks.

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/news/pr...pic-beadlocks/

When I click your link, I get this:

Error 404 - Not Found

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/news/pr...pic-beadlocks/

Thanks for fixing the link.

I tested the truck with the 2K diff oil. It seems a little more stable under acceleration, but that's it. Everywhere else, it was the same. I expected a little less turn in, but it feels the same. Also, the diff shims made the clicking go away. So if you get one, I suggest you take 10 minutes and install the shims.

Almost there. Got it painted today. Rushed it and crapped it up, but it'll be a basher lid.









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Looks GREAT to me!

Cuda has the Losi shocks on his and kicked my backside on Sun.

It looks great...