You need to go back to the stock shims 1st. How much fuel do you have through there if you have less then 2 gallons you should have all the stock shims plus the copper extra that came in the box in there too. The 5 port should have more than enough bottum end for anyone. I also would go to a warmer plug as they like them better in my eyes P3 or 4 or OD 77T or 97T. And I am not shure what your looking for with that pipe header configuration do you have the stock header if so put that on there. I run racers edge heat shield tape on all my bodies just because I spend alot of money getting them airbrushed its safe and I like that.

what is a stock head shimming on the 5 port or the 7 port? as far as I can see in the instructions it loooked like a 3mm and 2mm with an extra 2mm for break in. on my eb modded 5port gen 5 it had 1- 2mm and -1mm.

I want to go with ceramic bearings in my 7 port. What size's do I need. Thanks

Cestari,


On my 5 port, i use stock full 2047 GO Pipe, no need to change the header. You are going with a shorter one anyway, so that lack of bottom its kinda ok.

Go with this guys are telling you, stock shims and stock header and go to the track and test.

I dont know how are you repect to sea level, here in Santiago de Chile we are 543 meters over sea level, and i use the extra shim just for initial break inn (first gallon) and after that i run stock shims no extra one ...

My temps are 240-260 right now, great runtimes, great power too on low and high end ...

Hope this helps,

cya !!

Hello again,
I've just meassured the shims on my engine, and actualy there are 2 shims on it. One (aluminum) with 0,4 and other (cooper) with 0,1mm thick. So it means I'm using 0,5mm + 0,3mm.
Related to the header I'm using, I have the GO header, but due to the lengh of it, the pipe is so close to the body, making worst my melting problem. That is the reason why I'm using the OS shorter one.

My engine has almost 2 galons on it, and there is no more pinch on the TDC.

So please, don't worry about the lack of boton end performance. This is part of my setup to a very loose track.
My problem is the pipe temperature, that is been so hot and melting the body.

Should I take away another shim ? Perhaps 0,4mm + 0,3mm is gona be fine ?

Can you please help me with this issue ?

Thank you in advance.

Cestari

I would take out the 04 and replace with a 2mm and leave the 1mm with it. so you end up 3 and 3.

TKO-MR25414 is the rear
TKO-CB-607C-2RS is the front, both are tko's and at amain hobbies.

Get some of the heat shield tape like I said and you wont have body problems anymore. Of top of my head cand remember what they are supposed to be but you want to be how it came out of the box without the extra copper "break in" shim. Also GO engines are shimmed for 30% nitro and warm to hot plugs so there are a few different things that you can do to get the issue worked out. 69er the sizes front 7x19x6 and the rear is 14x25.4x6 And I am pretty shure your mill is new trust me on this break it in with the stock bearings and get it to 2-3 gallons then get a new rod pin and clips and your Ceramics and do it all at once and save your Ceramic bearings the hell of break in thats just what I did with my PTM 5 port and it will probably go till its done without needing taken apart again and my stock bearings are still good. Just to let you know that GO engines use TOP quality bearings from the factory though I am just trying the TKO's for the hell of it, take a look at where they are made on the outer race ITALY. Like i said and this is for anyone any help you need I feel like its my job I will do my best for you phone email what ever.

You personally are the one that influnced my desion to buy a Go-Tech engine. Before I had my mind all set on a trinity motor. Through your posts and pm's to my questions I know I made the correct desion on my choice.

I am running .6mm shimming on my MMods 5 Port (.3 mm alloy shim, plus the built in .3 in the head button). This is .2 mm down from the standard .8 mm and has dropped my pipe temps a little, plus the motor is performing very well.
It also allowed me to change from an OS P3 to a cooler RB#5 plug.

Hy Grizz1,

How much Nitro in the fuel ? Is this configuration valid also for a stock 5ports ?

Cestari

Sorry, should have mentioned the fuel - 25%

I have cut and pasted the complete post from Massive Mods on Go engine shimming below. Anything you need to know should be in here.
Just out of interest I went to a total of .5 mm initially and found after a days racing the coil of the RB#5 plug was quite distorted, which is why I have gone out to .6 mm total. Have run 2 x 3 day meetings and a one day meeting since changing to .6 mm and have had no plug issues at all.


¨Go Engine Shimming 101

The Go head button has a step already built into the head button which is .5 mm so whatever you add make sure you realise that it includes the step.

HOWEVER !

the top of piston to top edge of sleeve at TDC is 3.3 mm

from head button step to end of geo dome is 3 mm

so lets say you didnt use any shims your head clearence would be .3 mm

now whenever you add a shim you add it to the already existing .3

eg if you add a .2 your total head squish would be .5 because you are adding to the alreay built in gap of .3

I run .1 in mine to give me .4 total this was after i ran it in , before during run in i ran .4 to make a total of .7 i only ever use 20% nitro in my race fuel.

When the engine is new i recommend for the first 5 litres or first gal and a half ( for imperially impared ) Running .4 to .6 shim

This will save your plugs and give you a better idle , it will also help with relieving tension on the rod when the engine is still tight ..

So lets just talk about head shims VS Nitro % age and assume the engine is run in. Plug choice is next to each one

15 % .2 Hot
20 % .3 to .4 Med hot
25 % .4 to .5 Med
30 % .5 to .7 Med Cold

My set up on my MG66 FT is this

Shim .1mm and 20% nitro, with med plug LRP #6 , 9.2 mm custom venturi 11.5 mins tank time at average tune , 12.4 mins at race tune. 125 ml; tank. EPA wide open. Turbo Head Button.

Shims VS Heat Emissivity.

The more shims you run the lower the comp ratio, less tank time, and the cooler your head will run but this will give you hotter exhaust temps so if you are melting bodies thats why !

Less shims = higher comp = hotter head button and heat sink = Cooler exhaust temps = not melted body , better tank time..

Hope this info helps !

Cheers MM¨

with my 7 port I run one silver one gold shim, p3 plugs,6mm restrictor, dynamite 053 pipe with a werks conical header at 666 meters elevation with a shortened LSN(originally a long LSN). I get around 11:20 from full to empty on a tight track, ten should be no problem on all but the largest tracks.

69er no problem get with me if you need me.

Warranty question:

The part of the case that are screwed to the engine mounts has snapped off on both sides. I bought it in late February and didn't run it much (it was in my truggy, which is more of a backup instead of my racer). Does anyone know if this covered by warranty?

I'm asking this question on behalf of the person who bought the 7-port from me. He didn't ask me to check into warranty or anything, I just feel bad that it happened not even a week after buying it from me. .