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Old 03-10-2009 | 08:36 PM
  #3886  
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
O sorry forgot to mention, this is with the old springs, never used the new one's.
Had the old one's laying around from my 710-720 days.

Btw, did anyone tried lowering the engine?. I think it's pretty easy to lower it by 1mm, because i'm currently running the serpent WC clutch with the small flywheel and it's pretty hard to get the starter wheel to grab the flywheel.
I would only like to know if you will run into issues with the stock flywheel i.e. hitting the ground.
Originally Posted by rx7ttlm
if you had the inclination you could lower the engine 1mm or so by milling the bottom of the lower engine mounts.
If you were to lower the engine by 1mm then you would have to also move the engine back about 1mm also. Then you would have to slot the lower screw locations on the chassis and re-countersink them. Then every time you hit something, the engine would have the chance to move forward up to 1 mm, stripping your gears...but what do I know.
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Old 03-11-2009 | 02:55 AM
  #3887  
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
If you were to lower the engine by 1mm then you would have to also move the engine back about 1mm also. Then you would have to slot the lower screw locations on the chassis and re-countersink them. Then every time you hit something, the engine would have the chance to move forward up to 1 mm, stripping your gears...but what do I know.
fair enough
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Old 03-11-2009 | 09:27 AM
  #3888  
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
If you were to lower the engine by 1mm then you would have to also move the engine back about 1mm also. Then you would have to slot the lower screw locations on the chassis and re-countersink them. Then every time you hit something, the engine would have the chance to move forward up to 1 mm, stripping your gears...but what do I know.
Hmm, didn't thought about that.
Thanks, that saves me a set of engine mounts.

And i don't want to go as far as to mod the great mounting system xray uses on the car.
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Old 03-11-2009 | 12:02 PM
  #3889  
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CSO
3.1mm 7075 T6 Hard coated main chassis
Rear shock tower



http://www.rctech.net/forum/rc-marke...ml#post5538204
Attached Thumbnails Xray NT1-cso-nt1001h.jpg   Xray NT1-cso-nt1037.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2009 | 01:33 PM
  #3890  
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET
CSO
3.1mm 7075 T6 Hard coated main chassis
Rear shock tower



http://www.rctech.net/forum/rc-marke...ml#post5538204
CSO.......hmmm
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Old 03-11-2009 | 01:52 PM
  #3891  
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
CSO.......hmmm
who is CSO?
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Old 03-12-2009 | 01:55 AM
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CSO is one of the top racer in HK. And his company "CSO" made lot of upgrade parts for the NT1.

Originally Posted by rx7ttlm
who is CSO?
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Old 03-12-2009 | 04:45 AM
  #3893  
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Originally Posted by ehirobo.com
CSO is one of the top racer in HK. And his company "CSO" made lot of upgrade parts for the NT1.
Yes, I know
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Old 03-12-2009 | 05:26 PM
  #3894  
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Whats the best way to clean out the differentials when changing the silicone oil?

-=light=-
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Old 03-12-2009 | 05:28 PM
  #3895  
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I use a small flat blade screw driver to crape most of it out then just use a rag to wipe it all clean. time consuming but pretty clean way of doing it
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Old 03-12-2009 | 05:42 PM
  #3896  
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Originally Posted by light
Whats the best way to clean out the differentials when changing the silicone oil?

-=light=-
Originally Posted by mrgsr
I use a small flat blade screw driver to crape most of it out then just use a rag to wipe it all clean. time consuming but pretty clean way of doing it
This way works great when you need to do it like at the track. Also, you can get a can of Nitro Clean after you have done this and blast away the rest of the fluid in the corners, but you can make a mess that way.

If you have more time, and are not in a rush, like at home, I take everything out and lay it out on a lint free towel overnight, put the case upside down and when you get to it the next day, its as clean as you can get it,
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Old 03-12-2009 | 05:53 PM
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I put the hole thing in a can with kerosene, leave it overnight and it will be gone.
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Old 03-13-2009 | 03:20 AM
  #3898  
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You people are so diligent ...... I use tissue to clean the diff unit and put everything back in 5 minutes

Btw, I put a dab of tamiya ceramic grease to keep the diff gears last longer.
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Old 03-13-2009 | 06:31 AM
  #3899  
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Diff setup
For a smaller track 80 ft straight with a long sweeper and tight infield what would be a better setup?

#1
60.000 cst rear
80.000 cst front
#2
80.000 cst rear
100.000 cst front
#3
60.000 cst rear
100.000 cst front
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Old 03-13-2009 | 06:45 AM
  #3900  
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my diffs are leaking even if I dont run the car. is it because my large oring is getting old?
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