Take the air filter off and hold the brakes on your radio.... at the same time unscrew the idle screw.... the go carb will unscrew enough to completely close the carb slide....

It is possible you have the LSN super rich. This will load up the crankcase with enough fuel to keep the motor running regardless of the slide setting in some cases (for a short period, then the idle will drop and the motor will stall).
You shouldn't be mucking with the idle that much. Go back to basics. Set the idle gap at .7 to 1mm, set the HSN at .5 turns in from flush max (long lsn), set the LSN at 2.5 turns in from flush. Your motor should run very nicely with these settings. Only adjust the idle down once you have the motor running correctly. When you change the idle setting you slightly change the LSN setting at the same time, so can end up chasing your tail all day. This is why you adjust the idle speed last when everything else is set correctly.
If it won't run ok like this I would say you have an air leak of some kind going on. Seal everything up with rtv and try it again






If the piston and sleeve wore out after a gallon then you obviously did not run the engine in properly, or at all. The Go engines will run 10 gal + before needing a new piston and sleeve. They are very tight when new so require a proper run in. Either that, or you are using inferior fuel, or you can't tune an engine and have been running it super lean all the time because you are tuning a long LSN carb like an ordinary carb. Simple as that. Tuning procedures for these carbs are posted on this thread nearly every week in reply to people who can't get the tune right on the long LSN carbs. All you have to do is ask advice or read what is on here.
Did you ever wonder my everyone elses GO's on here were performing brilliantly and yours wasn't ????
Don't knock a good product just because of your own lack of knowledge.

Anyone???

If I am not mistaken, the blue head version of the .28 is a 3 port sport engine and the red head version is the 6 port race version.

had practice at motorama today. Running my ebmod m5 race prep and all i can say is wow. great power, super fast on top and great run times. and i never had to touch a needle from where ed sent it to me. Great job ED and Russel from race factor, I see this team as a great fit. Will give you guys a update after quals tommarrow Chris Chmielewski out till qual is over.

hi guys just a newbie on go motors and seems to be they are a good choice anyhow..was looking for shimming the motor namely the Go 5 port Turbo head. The motor has roughly 2 gallons as far the seller told me and did a check up today and measure the shims installed are 0.20mm (2 pcs) any how Im planin to run 30% nitro and 10% oil are the shimming good or if I try to run just 20% what shim will be appropriate? another question is what are the default needle setting for the carb? I haven't touch them yet just in the process of cleaning the motor and checking it.

Hoping you can share a bit knowledge for a newie like me

thank you

There should be one aluminum and 2 brass shims from the factory. Sometimes you don't notice the aluminum if it's stuck to the head. I would run it with one aluminum and one brass with 30%.

Rex

Hi Sky510, 22 Racer has sorted the shiming out

As far as the needles go it depends if you have the long LSN needle, the older short LSN needle or the newer intermediate LSN needle
Don't panic it's not to hard.
To check which needle is in your motor remove the air filter and look down the carb throat while slowly opening the throttle slide. If you have the old short needle the LSN needle will pull out of the spray bar before or at half throttle.
If you have the new intermediate needle (Gen5 motors only) the needle will only pull out of the spray bar towards full throttle.
If you have the long LSN (most likely in your case) the LSN remains in the spray bar right through the throttle range and is still in the spray bar at full throttle.

OK - for the long LSN set:

HSN to half a turn in from flush (doesn't seem much but this is correct. It's to do with the needle staying in the spray bar at full throttle).
LSN to 2.5 - 3 turns in from flush
I have the long LSN in my 5 Port and have HSN at .5 in from flush and the LSN at 2.75 turns in from flush. Perfect for my set up.

For short LSN set:

HSN 2 - 2.5 turns in from flush
LSN 2.5 - turns in from flush

For the intermediate needle:

HSN 1.25 - 1.5 turns in from flush
LSN 2.5 - 3 + turns in from flush
I have the newer intermediate needle in my 7 Port, and have HSN at 1.25 turns in and LSN at 4.25 turns in with the fuel and pipe I am running, and motor is performing real strong.


Start at the richest settings and work your way in as you go. The GO engines do favour a slightly rich top end and fairly lean bottm end.

Check out page 131 on this forum - posts from Massive Mods and Retro RC on needle settings.

Hope all this makes sense and is of some help

Which brand of long header do you mean? Do you mean the RB versions?

I run a MBX5T with a 7PT, i'm looking for 10min run time and good performance, I am currenttly running a ofna 086 header with a sirio 2057 pipe. It seems to give good performance but run time is around the 7-8 min mark with a 7mm insert. I have tried a ofna 086 pipe but the performance was average, is the dynamite 086 different?

buggy_racer: The long header he is refering to will be the one from the GoTech FEMCA 0801 pipe.

Tagalong NO motor will last long for you if you do what ever you did to that 1. There is no reason for that except user error. I never seen you with a heat gun 1 problem right there. I still use a heat gun and I am into alittle over 2 gals on my 5 port. I also just changed out the rod, pin, clips, and added front and rear TKO's. I still have mechanical pinch, my mill will not turn over by hand and I am not trying to force it to that would be "USER ERROR". Nothing on this planet will last if not properly taken care of. And "most" of NOBODY except you has had issues but you. I cant belive you came on here with that, I knew you mill wasnt going to last because of who your "PIT GUY" is also he has no knowlege about nitro and he was just cranking on them needles all day every day. Dont nock GO that aint cool. I just gave you "3" USER ERRORS not GO ERRORS. On another note Chim hope you do well we got to take a trip soon I am just about ready.

I'm quite certain that no one believes a GO engine would only last 1 gallon. I still use a heat gun on mine even at two gallons, mainly just at the first start of the day then I will just run if it's been sitting for <1 hour. I new to GO engines so far, but from what I can tell there isn't much more bang for the buck out there. I'm a fan to say the least and will continue race with their engines from now on unless something changes like quality goes down and/or prices go up.

I thought that was probably the case Cheers Malik, good to see your GO is performing for you





If you are looking for maximum run time I would go for the 0801 pipe and header, with 7 or 6.5 restrictor. You may loose a little top end with this pipe but it seems to have the best run time of them all on the GO's.

Hi

Does anyone know who the UK importor is for GO engines as the GO website doesn't list one at the moment (it used to be Jamie Booth SMD models but his website doesn't show GO anymore only LRP)

Otherwise its buy from the US and chance the tax

Grizz, now that I put the TKO front and rear in there what should I actually gain from that? I am really not looking for anything but they are cheaper than the replacements.