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Old 07-04-2008 | 08:01 PM
  #3631  
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Originally Posted by skeller

I also strongly recommend that everyone seal the slide boot to the carb....it can suck dirt in here. It will pull dirt while your WOT...then push it into the carb when off throttle. When the dirt builds up.......it falls into the engine equalling a bad day and a toasted engine.

My '08 PTM 3R is running great with no tuning problems....I will gladly help anyone with their tuning problems if I can.

Shane Keller

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How do you seal the slide boot on the carb?
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Old 07-04-2008 | 08:51 PM
  #3632  
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
How do you seal the slide boot on the carb?


It's easier to do with the carb off.......



At the end of the carb slide....take off the ball end that your linkage attaches to. Remove the carb slide boot and clean the boot and carb surface with denatured alcohol or nitro blast or even your favorite cleaner....as long as it doesn't leave a oily residue.

Use some carb seal or silicone sealant and apply to the lip that the carb boot fits into and on the face of the carb where the boot will touch. Be careful not to put too much inside the lip off the carb....when the boot falls into the groove it may push some sealant out onto the slide.

Slide the boot on....make sure of a good seal around the outside.

Put it all back together and let it sit.
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Old 07-05-2008 | 03:16 AM
  #3633  
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AH...thank you wiseman.
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Old 07-05-2008 | 04:29 AM
  #3634  
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Originally Posted by skeller
The needles being wrong is what causes these engines to tune different. The "good tune" window is very small....and usually is found by using the lsn the most which is completely backwards from all other engines. Also...out of the box the needle settings are not far from race tune. People instinctivley reach to the hsn to lean out some during break in....it's almost perfect out of the box. These engines tune almost totally from the lsn.....sometimes even when you have high engine temps (280+ deg. F.) leaning the lsn will make it better if your hsn is set properly....usually around flush.

I also strongly recommend that everyone seal the slide boot to the carb....it can suck dirt in here. It will pull dirt while your WOT...then push it into the carb when off throttle. When the dirt builds up.......it falls into the engine equalling a bad day and a toasted engine.

My '08 PTM 3R is running great with no tuning problems....I will gladly help anyone with their tuning problems if I can.

Shane Keller

205-281-3089
Is this the same procedure for a 5-port .21?
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Old 07-05-2008 | 05:37 AM
  #3635  
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Originally Posted by sachoppers
Iv done it the way brain has suggested ..and it works...I kinda had a hard time getting the lsn to turn smooth...so i removed it and installed a new oring..use a very light amount of grease(dont go carzy here),,and the lsn was so very easy to turn to find the sweet spot...

My friend has a 7port and gave up got a nova carb...

Once you has it set.leave it..and your done..
thanks brain
correction (Brian) any time bud lol
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Old 07-05-2008 | 05:40 AM
  #3636  
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Originally Posted by vnmsgt
Is this the same procedure for a 5-port .21?
yes, very close. lsn is about 1 to 2 turns in from flush, just start off 1 turn in and run up to race temps then move more if needed, hsn flush or 1 to 2 hours in.
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Old 07-05-2008 | 07:22 AM
  #3637  
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I want to clarify HSN flush. I usually take a hobby knife and run it across the HSN housing to "feel" if the needle is sticking up. Is there a set number of turns from fully closed that would make it easier? Do you just "eyeball" it? After running V-spec and RB's I am not used to such a sensitive engine
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Old 07-05-2008 | 01:14 PM
  #3638  
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Hi Guys,

Just wondered if someone can give me some needle settings for a 21 3 port sport engine. I seem to have lost my way when tuning and now can't seem to get a steady idle or crisp take off.

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-05-2008 | 03:11 PM
  #3639  
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Originally Posted by mugenb46
correction (Brian) any time bud lol
Omg srry bro..
thanks (BRIAN)
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Old 07-06-2008 | 08:47 AM
  #3640  
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guys,eed help on my my 5 port(standard)what should be the main problem if my fully broken in engine is flaming out?i started it yesterday to finished the run in procedure,due to vibration the plug that connects the rx pack and the receiver disconnects and my buggy(hyper 7 )gone wild and crashed on a concrete wall,good thing is there is no any damage on my kit,then i let the engine to cool down,then after some few minutes cooling down, my engine starts to flame out i dont know what reason why my engine is acting like that,since it hit the wall so bad,i tried adjusting the needles to its factory settings and nothing happens,always flaming out.
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Old 07-06-2008 | 11:55 AM
  #3641  
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Originally Posted by vyt666
guys,eed help on my my 5 port(standard)what should be the main problem if my fully broken in engine is flaming out?i started it yesterday to finished the run in procedure,due to vibration the plug that connects the rx pack and the receiver disconnects and my buggy(hyper 7 )gone wild and crashed on a concrete wall,good thing is there is no any damage on my kit,then i let the engine to cool down,then after some few minutes cooling down, my engine starts to flame out i dont know what reason why my engine is acting like that,since it hit the wall so bad,i tried adjusting the needles to its factory settings and nothing happens,always flaming out.
seeing as you hit a wall, i'd start with checking for leaks around the carb and also your gas tank for cracks and or leaks
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Old 07-06-2008 | 12:52 PM
  #3642  
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Well i got to run my PTM GO .21 3 port race motor (with stock carb from Go)and all i can say again is WOW it was awesome.

We ran a 2 hour endurance race last night at the Nitro Pit here in AZ and i ran my jammin x1x buggy with that motor and my teamate and myself ran 6th overall. the motor had tons of power and was pretty good on the top end. i ran a novarossi 9886 pipe with standard header. it came off the track at 279 degrees f after the 2 hours. at first we had lean bog on bottom but tuned it out in the first 20 mins and was fine after that, even after 4 times that my right front shock fell off duhhhhhh here is a pic of my buggy and the motor from last night thnx GO and thnx Brian @ PTM awesome motor and i know i sure turns some heads out there.




Last edited by will g; 07-07-2008 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 07-06-2008 | 12:59 PM
  #3643  
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also here is a pic of my NEW jammin x2 truggy wit ha GO .25 6 port engine ready to run next club race


Last edited by will g; 07-06-2008 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 07-06-2008 | 01:25 PM
  #3644  
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I too ran the Go 3R for the first time last night after 5 tanks of break in. A. Piceno and I came in 4th and consider it the best we could do with the competition the buggy class had.

Thanks to Brian34 for the sale and quick shipment of the Go.
Tom
Attached Thumbnails Go-Tech Engines Thread-dscn0921.jpg   Go-Tech Engines Thread-dscn0922.jpg  

Last edited by nta01; 07-21-2008 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 07-06-2008 | 01:49 PM
  #3645  
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yeah Tom you and Andy had good run going the whole race unfortionatly for me i had shock probs which put me way way back ill get with you at the track and see what we can make work for it . ( just fyi i ran the go engine with the go carb ) and ran fine thnx will g
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