"Motor has about a just under a gallon on it."


I hope I am wrong for your sake, but you might be headed towards the same trouble I am having on a regular basis. Hopefully you will be spared the headaches.

Anyone know what shims come on the std & turbo 5port now?

Sorry but any ideas?? no'one has replyed to me yet lol , accept one guy,

anyone else?? Cheers

Hi Michael, Can't comment on the V-Spec, too dear for my budget, especially parts. I hear that the new Gen 5 3 Port R Specs are very V-Spec like in their performance (with 0801 pipe). Go for the 7 Port Turbo with 0801 pipe mate. You won't be disappointed. One of the guys here is running stock 7 Port using MM fuel and the V-Specs and Ninja's couldn't gain on him down the straight last meeting - no BS. 7 Ports are sleepers. No one really thinks much about them, but they are wicked motors in a buggy.

Has anybody tried running with only the thick silver shim on the 3 R engine.
I want to solve the bogging issues down low and was wondering whether the removal of the thin 0.1mm shim would help out.
Could the carb be responsible for this?
What are the problems faced with the faulty carbs?

Is this the one you were talking about Grizz? and the pipe too?

Engine- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16978


Pipe- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25539

and does the 0801 pipe come in hard adonized??

I have a Go 7 port coming in the mail, should I just swap out the LS needle right off the bat? I can pull the one out of my Go 3 sport....

well I finally managed to get a gallon and a half on my engine. Took out the break in shim and retuned. Now I dont have any problems making the 7:30 mark at 230 with the 7mm insert. I beleive I have almost a 1/8th of a tank left after a 7 minute qualifier. Never got to the mains though got rained out so hopefully in a couple weeks I can push it harder and see how long it goes.

On med to big tracks the 5 port is right there with the os, the 5 hits harder on the bottom so it's not as linier, it's pretty mean, the 7 port is what alot of guys are switching to that normally ran v spec's, it smooth on bottom but has tons of it, and you can enjoy a coke and chips waiting for it to top out, it pulls forever, both are very good, and reliable.

Eric, yes do that with the lsn.

08 5 ports have this for shimming, as do the 3 and 7
1 alum
1 thick brass
1 thin brass
1 thick brass in box for breakin.

chris, leave the thin brass in, unless you would like the engine to remove the head by itself for you. the thin shim and thick alum shim need to be in together, this puts you in the correct range of squish, any lower and det time. it will destroy the button and piston, and eventually the whole engine, and plugs will start being an issue.

i have been tinkering with a way to flow check the carbs and see where they should be for breakin compared to race tune, and with that data, i have broke in a 5 port with much better fuel flow, the engine was puking tons of fuel and i had all the fans going to clear the smoke, i started off with the lsn in a bit further in than out of the box, but with the hsn being 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from flush, the engine was way to fat to even apply throttle on the bench, and to maintain an idle, the carb had to be open quarter throttle, and the idle at this setting sounded like a standaerd idle, not like a wot breakin. and one thing i was glad to see, raw fuel spitting out the carb, this is very common on the v spec, and they run very fat during breakin as well. A leaner setting was needed to start the engine but after the first tank it was a very good sign to see what it was doing.

i am hoping the outcome of this is going to allow more movement of the hsn and getting the reaction out of the engine that is normally expected when people are breakin in a engine, they do this to bring temps up a little and also move it after a few tanks down the process.

i think the race settings are going to be the same or very close, but starting off with this setting will be a little more forgiving when it's time to use the hsn and the lsn. again, when moving any of the needles go just a bit at a time 2 hours can be to much on a new engine, i have 7 tanks through this 5 port and i havn't moved the needles yet, once it's in car it should be ran for about another 5 tanks and then go 1 hour on the hsn, more fuel will through the engine will allow more adjustability, you can't rush it.

Test Breakin settings

HSN 2 turns out from flush
LSN 3/4 to 1 turn in from flush
Idle, set it to where it will idle with this fat setting, mine was about 1/4 open. And always keep temps(with heat gun) at around 230 to 240

chris, leave the thin brass in, unless you would like the engine to remove the head by itself for you. the thin shim and thick alum shim need to be in together, this puts you in the correct range of squish, any lower and det time. it will destroy the button and piston, and eventually the whole engine, and plugs will start being an issue.

i have been tinkering with a way to flow check the carbs and see where they should be for breakin compared to race tune, and with that data, i have broke in a 5 port with much better fuel flow, the engine was puking tons of fuel and i had all the fans going to clear the smoke, i started off with the lsn in a bit further in than out of the box, but with the hsn being 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from flush, the engine was way to fat to even apply throttle on the bench, and to maintain an idle, the carb had to be open quarter throttle, and the idle at this setting sounded like a standaerd idle, not like a wot breakin. and one thing i was glad to see, raw fuel spitting out the carb, this is very common on the v spec, and they run very fat during breakin as well. A leaner setting was needed to start the engine but after the first tank it was a very good sign to see what it was doing.

i am hoping the outcome of this is going to allow more movement of the hsn and getting the reaction out of the engine that is normally expected when people are breakin in a engine, they do this to bring temps up a little and also move it after a few tanks down the process.

i think the race settings are going to be the same or very close, but starting off with this setting will be a little more forgiving when it's time to use the hsn and the lsn. again, when moving any of the needles go just a bit at a time 2 hours can be to much on a new engine, i have 7 tanks through this 5 port and i havn't moved the needles yet, once it's in car it should be ran for about another 5 tanks and then go 1 hour on the hsn, more fuel will through the engine will allow more adjustability, you can't rush it.

Test Breakin settings

HSN 2 turns out from flush
LSN 3/4 to 1 turn in from flush
Idle, set it to where it will idle with this fat setting, mine was about 1/4 open. And always keep temps(with heat gun) at around 230

chris, leave the thin brass in, unless you would like the engine to remove the head by itself for you. the thin shim and thick alum shim need to be in together, this puts you in the correct range of squish, any lower and det time. it will destroy the button and piston, and eventually the whole engine, and plugs will start being an issue.

i have been tinkering with a way to flow check the carbs and see where they should be for breakin compared to race tune, and with that data, i have broke in a 5 port with much better fuel flow, the engine was puking tons of fuel and i had all the fans going to clear the smoke, i started off with the lsn in a bit further in than out of the box, but with the hsn being 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from flush, the engine was way to fat to even apply throttle on the bench, and to maintain an idle, the carb had to be open quarter throttle, and the idle at this setting sounded like a standaerd idle, not like a wot breakin. and one thing i was glad to see, raw fuel spitting out the carb, this is very common on the v spec, and they run very fat during breakin as well. A leaner setting was needed to start the engine but after the first tank it was a very good sign to see what it was doing.

i am hoping the outcome of this is going to allow more movement of the hsn and getting the reaction out of the engine that is normally expected when people are breakin in a engine, they do this to bring temps up a little and also move it after a few tanks down the process.

i think the race settings are going to be the same or very close, but starting off with this setting will be a little more forgiving when it's time to use the hsn and the lsn. again, when moving any of the needles go just a bit at a time 2 hours can be to much on a new engine, i have 7 tanks through this 5 port and i havn't moved the needles yet, once it's in car it should be ran for about another 5 tanks and then go 1 hour on the hsn, more fuel will through the engine will allow more adjustability, you can't rush it.

Test Breakin settings

HSN 2 turns out from flush
LSN 3/4 to 1 turn in from flush
Idle, set it to where it will idle with this fat setting, mine was about 1/4 open. And always keep temps(with heat gun) at around 230 to

sorry, the cat jumped on the keyboard

These Go engines are so confusing.

I had my 3R running well yesterday. 215º making good power, blowing good smoke. It still takes quite a while to load it up before you can actually put it on the track and turn laps, with almost a gallon through it. Some really experienced and talented drivers and tuners were telling me that it was taking forever because it was far too rich, and the engine was choking on all the fuel it was getting. So they'd lean it out just a tad, and it would lean bog like mad. It's like it has to be ridiculously rich and warmed up for a while or it just won't go.

My low speed is a turn in from flush, and my high speed is barely two turns in from flush. I keep hearing the same thing from people who help me tune.

"That's WEEEEEEEEIRD."

But aside from that, when it's warmed up and running well, it's more than enough engine. I'm certain it could keep up with the GRPs that several people are running. I'm new to offroad, and having trouble with consistency.

I had a Nova Rossi 367 that took forever to warm up as well. Sometimes that is just the way the engine works.
This sounds like the case with the Go engine too.

Colin