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Old 06-26-2008 | 08:50 AM
  #3406  
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Originally Posted by will g
tony

hey i ran a go 2047 with my .25 the other day at the nitro pit and it ran around 280-285 and it ran awesome had tons of power all around may want to try that. i have dyn 053 and it ran ok with it till i stuck on the go 2047 thnx will g see you at the track

Seems like everyone is saying the that go tech pipe is the way to go with this engine. Luckily I have one on order.

Athough, I'm a little concerned about the engine temp you have listed. I usually run mine at 230 - 260.
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Old 06-26-2008 | 09:04 AM
  #3407  
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mine likes the hotter its got right at 2 gallons on it it seems like @ 230-240 has no power not sure why but i get pretty good fuel milage as well i got around 8 1/2 mins on last run
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Old 06-26-2008 | 09:49 PM
  #3408  
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Originally Posted by Akhor
Seems like everyone is saying the that go tech pipe is the way to go with this engine. Luckily I have one on order.

Athough, I'm a little concerned about the engine temp you have listed. I usually run mine at 230 - 260.
We are in Hot, EFFEN, Phx.AZ. Where it's 108 on a cool day, so whats the problem with engines running at 260 or so? Usually, when it gets really hot, I'll go to a colder plug, like a 6, or 7, I have even used an 8, and it helps to keep the engines from detinating.
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Old 06-27-2008 | 03:58 AM
  #3409  
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Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
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Old 06-27-2008 | 04:02 AM
  #3410  
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
Here ya go. Have sold a bunch of them and they love it. The motor really seems to wake up at about a gallon or so. I am putting one in my ZX1-R.

http://www.holeshothobbies.com/servl...1R-SPEC/Detail
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Old 06-27-2008 | 10:14 AM
  #3411  
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Originally Posted by skeller
The M2C 4 shoe clutch will not fit the Go engines.....the skirt on the back of the flywheel won't fit over the crankcase.
I have the M2C 4-shoe setup on a Go 5pt Turbo. It's very close, but it fits with no rubbing and does not overlap hardly at the skirt. I think I used the dark crush cone. Is that the Go or the M2C? Not sure. I don't remember shimming or anything. I'll definitely look next time I take it apart. I had the same setup on my last 5port,too. Very close, but not touching. Anyone else successfully running M2C 4-shoe? I love my setup fo sho.
T
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Old 06-27-2008 | 10:53 AM
  #3412  
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
The 3 port sport is a great motor for 125.00 on amain. Mine has lasted 8 gallons so far and it runs strong. If your not racing on a track with really long straights then it will perform well.
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Old 06-27-2008 | 11:23 AM
  #3413  
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I know that this has been asked 1,000,000 times, but can somebody just quickly post the approx. needle settings (break-in and race) if possible for the .25 6 port? Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2008 | 12:29 PM
  #3414  
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Originally Posted by Furadi
The 3 port sport is a great motor for 125.00 on amain. Mine has lasted 8 gallons so far and it runs strong. If your not racing on a track with really long straights then it will perform well.
For the price of the 3-Port at A-Main you really can not beat it. Even if you blow it, it's almost cheaper to purchase another one.. Or you could just upgrade the piston and sleeve to a 5 port!
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Old 06-27-2008 | 12:33 PM
  #3415  
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Originally Posted by Akhor
For the price of the 3-Port at A-Main you really can not beat it. Even if you blow it, it's almost cheaper to purchase another one.. Or you could just upgrade the piston and sleeve to a 5 port!
Only thing about the 3-port sport motor is that it comes with a pullstart and then you have to buy the bumpbox backing plate for it. For about 30 bucks more you can get the RACE 3-port .21 R-spec which is in a different league and it comes already with a bumpstart backplate installed from factory.
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Old 06-27-2008 | 02:16 PM
  #3416  
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I have finished breaking in my 7 port turbo, but I am not sure which spacer to leave under the head, the 1mm or the 2mm? Which one should I remove?
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Old 06-27-2008 | 02:40 PM
  #3417  
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petevette, you should have 1 alum shim and 1 thick shim in now, after a gallon remove the thick brass shim and install the thin brass shim, and your good to go.





out of box .25 needle settings breakin
HSN-flush
LSN-1/2 turn out from flush

approximate race tune.
HSN flush to 3 hours in from flush
LSN 1 1/2 turns to 2 turns in from flush
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Old 06-27-2008 | 02:42 PM
  #3418  
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Originally Posted by petevette
I have finished breaking in my 7 port turbo, but I am not sure which spacer to leave under the head, the 1mm or the 2mm? Which one should I remove?
I think your supposed to leave the aluminum shim and 1 of the thin ones.
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Old 06-27-2008 | 02:53 PM
  #3419  
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Excellent, will do. Thanks guys!
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Old 06-27-2008 | 04:21 PM
  #3420  
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Originally Posted by vnmsgt
Only thing about the 3-port sport motor is that it comes with a pullstart and then you have to buy the bumpbox backing plate for it. For about 30 bucks more you can get the RACE 3-port .21 R-spec which is in a different league and it comes already with a bumpstart backplate installed from factory.
I don't see a pullstart on the Go 3 Port Sport..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16977
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